Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

So I took the plunge (more like tip toed in) into lifting my truck and bought a body lift.
I don't really want to cut and weld in the shifter extension. I don't trust my welding skills and I would like to easily reverse my modifications (just my thing).
Can I get away without welding in the shifter extensions?
Can I just a bolt on shifter extension?

Any problems with this method (binding, popping out of gear, trouble shifting...) let me know.

Stuwy

Tubbyfatty

You might have problems with it staying or getting in gear.

Remember, the shifter is metal (at least the shaft is), you can do anything to metal. Just take off the shifter and go to a shop and ask them to weld in a 1/2/3'' extension before the bends.

Or fork up the dough for this, if you have the R150f tranny. http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.p..._id=1230100042

gary96360

you dont really need to extend the shifter. all i did was heat the shifter with a oxygen/ acetaline torch and then bent it forward and a tiny bit to the left. then i turned the shifter plate 180 degrees then grinded it a bit so i can use 4low

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Make sure and allow proper shifter clearance around the base:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/....shtml#Shifter

Screw on extension to make the shifter longer, if needed:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...lTransmissions

Ezrider_92356

well this thread has all ready helped me, i was having an issue with the rubber shift boot pulling on the shifter even after notching the floor board and moving the boot back. i ended up leaving it loose flopping around letting in hot air or cold air in winter i cant believe i never thought of this flipping it upside down it's so simple. now i think i need to just pull the shifter out and see what kind of bushings or what not are in there that need to be replaced to get rid of my excessive shifter play

toyNG

These will help get rid of the excess play

http://marlincrawler.com/transmissio...-shifter-seats

http://marlincrawler.com/transmissio...shifter-socket

Ezrider_92356

great links, and for an grand total of 16 bucks i just might order today! btw the you tube video with the supra on the website the before is just like my truck now

ovrrdrive

If you don't want to weld the 4crawler extension is definitely the way to go. I have a good welding shop in my area so I had mine cut and extended. I did it over 13 years ago and the welds have held up fine to some very hard driving.

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

Was this on an old truck cuz your sig says you have a 3 slow auto.

scuba

I dont see in his sig where it says anything about auto or manual.

Tubbyfatty

Garys truck is a manual. I remember from past threads haha.

gary96360

1993 yota pickup. 3 slow, 4.56 gears 5 speed. plumbing isr. autopal h4 conversion, 12 inch infinity sub. 3 inch body lift with 33'' tsl's

it is in my sig this whole time... 5 speed

scuba

Yea yea, I wasnt sure if it was 4.56 for auto or manual

Slowstrike

3inch Body lift? I left mine as is after notching the floor panel and I never had any problems exept the shifter boot being loose a bit. If that bothers you theres always zip ties ? thats just me and this is on a 22re.

*EDIT* The one thing that you might want to look at that I did have a problem with how ever is where the steering shaft passes through the firewall I know in my truck it rubbed and notched a ring around the steering shaft right where it goes through. Just my experience and 1 cents.

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

My exhaust leak is making me dumber. Sorry. I thought 3 slow meant auto transmission. My apologies.
My door tag says G58 but my jack kit says W56. So I dunno what transmission I have other than it's a 5 speed manual.
The lift kit I got includes a new firewall plate.
I went out to my truck to check to see if I could get away without extending the shifter.
Looks like I "might" be able to. I'll have to cut the center cross member off that little tin plate that holds everything down, take out the middle shifter boot (mine has 3 boots) and invert the other boots.
I'll let you all know how it goes.
If it doesn't fit, I'll just run with out any shifter boots for a day or two and just have the extensions welded in.

Jay351

You need that firewall plate for the steering shaft to clear. The steering will all have to be removed to get that sucker in place. Take the time and make sure you don't wreck the rubber boot that seals everything. I had to use duct tape because we ripped mine.

I welded in my extensions right before the bends, right where you are supposed to. With a few minor tweaks to the shifter with a torch I have full range of gears. I flipped in the inner boot a few days after we did the lift, that was 2 years ago.

The only thing I suggest you do before you install your kit, is replace ALL the bolts you got with grade 5 or 8 bolts. Mine are only grade 3

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

I didn't even check to quality of the bolts.
I'll check it out tomorrow.
I never got around to putting in the lift today, ran out of sunshine.

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

Well I got it all said and done.
I ran into a couple of hiccups.
Ground strap extensions were cheap and needed to be bent to a 90 to fit. I used my concrete step and a claw hammer. Broke the step. Whoops.

I couldn't get the clutch line clip out for a bit. Got out some good pliers and yanked it out.

Rusted steel to rubber bushing. Hammer, step and socket got it out.

I also ran out of sunshine, so I ran around with only the cab lifted for a day. =). Sorry no pics of that. It was a little embarrassing.

Lifting the bed was easy enough, the bolts are a little annoying to tighten. I just loosened the fuel filler neck, which made re-aligning the bed to the cab a little difficult. I just had my roommate hold it in place while I tightened it down.


As for shifters, I got a spare set from a junkyard, welded in the extensions. I re-installed the boots like stock and they would bind. So I swapped the first boot (two round holes) with the second (square-ish black boots) and flipped the back square-ish boot to point down. This works great! Solved my binding problem.
As for the transfer case shifter, welded in the extension on the junkyard one. I have a W56 transmission and I used the shifters off a R150 transmission, same ones.

If you want, this is a good time to put in a new shifter seat cup. I just carefully pry-ed one off at the junkyard.

And pics:


Before:



After:


I'll try remember to re-take the after pic in better light.



Look Ma' no gap guards. Soon to come.

Tubbyfatty

Looks good. How big did you go? looks like a 3''?

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

It's a three inch.
I'm planning on getting some sliders or step bars to hide the frame and body mount.
It's not as noticeable on flat ground but when it's leaning into the curb / ditch, it shows.