Body lift running rough (after install)
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Body lift running rough (after install)
Just wondering if anyone has had any complications with their 22re running awful after a 1" body lift. Not sure if I stretched out some wires somewhere but I'm getting severe misfires under load. Is there any specific ground wires/anything that I should look into more? I tried looking around and everything seems to be alright. Looking for some actual experience anyones had? Let me know thanks!
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Have you looked at the one from the firewall to the back of the head .
It can`t hurt to look at your ground cables at any time
you didn`t kink or crush any fuel lines when you were installing this.
pull the coil wire out of the coil part way.
Could just be unrelated and time for a major tune up when was the last one.
It can`t hurt to look at your ground cables at any time
you didn`t kink or crush any fuel lines when you were installing this.
pull the coil wire out of the coil part way.
Could just be unrelated and time for a major tune up when was the last one.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Have you looked at the one from the firewall to the back of the head .
It can`t hurt to look at your ground cables at any time
you didn`t kink or crush any fuel lines when you were installing this.
pull the coil wire out of the coil part way.
Could just be unrelated and time for a major tune up when was the last one.
It can`t hurt to look at your ground cables at any time
you didn`t kink or crush any fuel lines when you were installing this.
pull the coil wire out of the coil part way.
Could just be unrelated and time for a major tune up when was the last one.
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sacramento, Crawlifonia
Posts: 1,621
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
4 Posts
I had the same issue about seven years ago. I drove my truck around for several months with no problem, then I made a trip to Washington state and back to Cali. The day after I returned the truck would not start. After two months of trouble shooting and replacing many expensive parts I got it to idle but would not drive down the road. I broke down and took it to the shop. My mechanic had it for one month, and he discovered it was the grounds. My mechanic fixed the grounds, and installed three new gournds just in case.
I am 100% positive it is your grounds, so be sure all the grounds have prefect metal to metal contact.
I am 100% positive it is your grounds, so be sure all the grounds have prefect metal to metal contact.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had the same issue about seven years ago. I drove my truck around for several months with no problem, then I made a trip to Washington state and back to Cali. The day after I returned the truck would not start. After two months of trouble shooting and replacing many expensive parts I got it to idle but would not drive down the road. I broke down and took it to the shop. My mechanic had it for one month, and he discovered it was the grounds. My mechanic fixed the grounds, and installed three new gournds just in case.
I am 100% positive it is your grounds, so be sure all the grounds have prefect metal to metal contact.
I am 100% positive it is your grounds, so be sure all the grounds have prefect metal to metal contact.
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: All over Canada
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Those are the ones, pull the grounds off, lightly sand their ends, and reattach, could be corrosion.
Also, chase the wires, the body lift could have exacerbated a loose, or broken ground wire.
Also, chase the wires, the body lift could have exacerbated a loose, or broken ground wire.
#7
Registered User
Checked the air intake tubing or couplings? The filter housing just moved up an inch while the engine didn't, you could have opened up a crack on the underside somewhere giving yourself a vacuum leak.
Trending Topics
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ended up taking it to the mechanic who fixed a cross threaded plug hole which they thought was it. Not.. Took it back in, said it was the ignition coil (which I replaced a few months ago), got a new one from the warranty, nope. Took it back in again.. now they tell me it's because burning too much oil. Told me it was either valve seals or rings (obviously), didn't do a compression test or anything and told me to rebuild it and pick it up whenever. After screwing up 2 other times when diagnosing not sure to believe or not? It's always burned the same amount of oil since I've bought it. I guess I'll run another compression test and check to see if there's any oil fouling the plugs? Thinking about getting a second opinion somewhere else.. any thoughts?
#11
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
Did the voltage drop tests on those grounds yet?
http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm
Just because a wire "seems good" doesn't mean it is you need to test those ground connections. Also don't overlook the plug under the passenger seat, since it connects to the tank/frame.
And since lots of people have problems deciphering the TS chart..
1: Fuel quality, 2: EGR System, 3: Spark plug, 4: Ignition circuit, 5: Distributor, 6: ECT sensor circuit, 7: Compression, 8: VAFM Circuit, 9: Injectors, 10: Cold start system, 11: ECM.
3,4, and 5 All were effected by the lift. The ~20 year old wires aren't where they've been for thier lifetime. Could be "just", wire fatigue, busted shielding on the ignition-ECM wires, loose or stretched wires, ect..
But you can't overlook the rest of the inspections. Since it only happens under load my guess is the EGR modulator, but it's just a random guess that assumes it's not really related to the lift.
So in conclusion, Ground straps voltage drop tests, Inspect the intake tubes TWICE off the vehicle, then proceed with the numbered check list and pay particular attention to wires that connect between the frame and body.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm
Just because a wire "seems good" doesn't mean it is you need to test those ground connections. Also don't overlook the plug under the passenger seat, since it connects to the tank/frame.
And since lots of people have problems deciphering the TS chart..
1: Fuel quality, 2: EGR System, 3: Spark plug, 4: Ignition circuit, 5: Distributor, 6: ECT sensor circuit, 7: Compression, 8: VAFM Circuit, 9: Injectors, 10: Cold start system, 11: ECM.
3,4, and 5 All were effected by the lift. The ~20 year old wires aren't where they've been for thier lifetime. Could be "just", wire fatigue, busted shielding on the ignition-ECM wires, loose or stretched wires, ect..
But you can't overlook the rest of the inspections. Since it only happens under load my guess is the EGR modulator, but it's just a random guess that assumes it's not really related to the lift.
So in conclusion, Ground straps voltage drop tests, Inspect the intake tubes TWICE off the vehicle, then proceed with the numbered check list and pay particular attention to wires that connect between the frame and body.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did the voltage drop tests on those grounds yet?
http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm
Just because a wire "seems good" doesn't mean it is you need to test those ground connections. Also don't overlook the plug under the passenger seat, since it connects to the tank/frame.
And since lots of people have problems deciphering the TS chart..
1: Fuel quality, 2: EGR System, 3: Spark plug, 4: Ignition circuit, 5: Distributor, 6: ECT sensor circuit, 7: Compression, 8: VAFM Circuit, 9: Injectors, 10: Cold start system, 11: ECM.
3,4, and 5 All were effected by the lift. The ~20 year old wires aren't where they've been for thier lifetime. Could be "just", wire fatigue, busted shielding on the ignition-ECM wires, loose or stretched wires, ect..
But you can't overlook the rest of the inspections. Since it only happens under load my guess is the EGR modulator, but it's just a random guess that assumes it's not really related to the lift.
So in conclusion, Ground straps voltage drop tests, Inspect the intake tubes TWICE off the vehicle, then proceed with the numbered check list and pay particular attention to wires that connect between the frame and body.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm
Just because a wire "seems good" doesn't mean it is you need to test those ground connections. Also don't overlook the plug under the passenger seat, since it connects to the tank/frame.
And since lots of people have problems deciphering the TS chart..
1: Fuel quality, 2: EGR System, 3: Spark plug, 4: Ignition circuit, 5: Distributor, 6: ECT sensor circuit, 7: Compression, 8: VAFM Circuit, 9: Injectors, 10: Cold start system, 11: ECM.
3,4, and 5 All were effected by the lift. The ~20 year old wires aren't where they've been for thier lifetime. Could be "just", wire fatigue, busted shielding on the ignition-ECM wires, loose or stretched wires, ect..
But you can't overlook the rest of the inspections. Since it only happens under load my guess is the EGR modulator, but it's just a random guess that assumes it's not really related to the lift.
So in conclusion, Ground straps voltage drop tests, Inspect the intake tubes TWICE off the vehicle, then proceed with the numbered check list and pay particular attention to wires that connect between the frame and body.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As of tonight I found my wiring harness rubbed through the outer layer where it rests on top of the fuel rail under the upper intake. Hard to really see underneath how far its through but it seems to have rubbed through some wires. I think the bare wires resting on the fuel rail was shorting out causing the problems. I just put a small heater hose around it for now so it's not resting on the metal anymore and actually seems to be running alot better. I'll know for sure by tomorrow but I'm fairly certain that is the problem. If it turns out then I'll have to pull the intake off and do an actual permanent fix than how it is now.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
6th Gear
84-85 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
19
12-10-2019 07:31 AM
Peteyg39@hotmail.com
Newbie Tech Section
1
06-26-2015 08:15 AM
dandownunder
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
1
06-10-2002 06:18 AM