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I noticed that my low fan speed for my blower stopped working so first thing I bought was a new relay. Still didn't work. The relay clicks but fan doesn't move. What else could it be?
Could also be the switch in the dash, mine only worked on high speed. Switch has burned up due to a failed blower motor resistor
Below is copy and paste from my thread
one of the things that bugged me when i decided to take on this project was that the fan had one speed, and no A/C. Pulled the dash parts boxes i had from the 4runner shell i had.
Found a good fan switch with the a/c controls and started to pull apart the dash. *
i was very happy:toilet3::wtf: to find evidence of a short
the new 4 speed switch is on the left and the one speed on the right, you can see some melting on the right switch
sure enough,the old switch had shorted for some reason in the past..probably the quality stereo install work*
evidence of the quality that went into the stereo install, wiring from the Goodwill...
i hate leaving a project in this state but ran out of time
upside is now i have all fan speeds and working A/C
went ahead and replaced the blower motor resistor today.
I'd like to have a talk with the genious at Toyota who decided to put a failure prone point in such a convience place (tucked under the blower unit on the right side)
I went ahead and pulled the glove box hoping for a little more room.
got it out after a few minutes and cussing, not the easiest thing to get out.
if you need to having a 7mm wrench helps on the back screw/bolt, you can get to the visible screw with a screwdriver or nut driver.
new one on the left, old one on the right..old one was slightly tarnished.
new one should offer a few years of good service
Ok thanks guys. I was kinda hoping I wouldn't have to pull the whole dash apart to replace the switch. When I turn the lowest fan speed on I can hear the relay click but won't turn the motor till I turn it on the second speed. It's really not a huge issue but it's driving my ocd up the wall. I will check the coiled resistor thing behind the blower and see what it looks like. If it ain't that I guess the dash is coming apart.
OP- you never said what year of truck you are working on, if 89-95.5 like your avatar implies, your blower motor resistor is more than likely down under the blower unit near the passenger side firewall.
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from what I read my failing resistor is what killed my switch. I knew my switch was bad so that let to pulling dash, plus it gave me a chance to swap dash pad.
I probably didn't need to pull the glove box but it gave me a little more room
Look at the picture of the resistors. Each coil represents one of your speeds. It uses no coils for full power. One for each additional reduction in speed. I believe it takes all three for low speed. Bet you have a failed section in your resistor. Cheap and easy fix. Just be easy with the new part. They can break in your hand.
Does that later model much more robust resistor fit the 1st gen mount and plug? Seems it would/could have a higher lifespan with the full ceramic housing versus the goo method..
Edit.. answering half my own question since my old one is sitting here beside me. Looks like the same plug..
Most resistors are generic. Kind of like relays. I have one in my box for a John Deere skidder that will work. You can pick up one at any ac shop that will fit.
Check to make sure the resistor you replace it has the same amount of electrical contacts. There is a 3 prong and a 4 prong resistor and they will not interchange. A problem I had to trouble shoot the hard way and took a while. They look identical other then the number of contacts/prongs.
The 84-88 has a coil wire for a resistor and from what I have been seeing from others post, I am assuming the 89-95 has a ceramic resistor. Just to show why there are two types of resistors being shown in previous post.
Just pull yours and take it to an AC shop or the dealership. It shouldn't be more than $15. The only other thing I can think of is that you might have some resistance in your fan due to a sticky bearing, worn out motor, or something actually in the box, that may be holding it back from turning when it is only supplied with the power supplied to it at low speed. A little more juice may be overcoming that hang up and allowing it to turn at higher speed settings. Either way, the money you spend on the resistor is nothing compared to pulling that blower box. I haven't pulled one out on a truck that model but have pulled several from earlier and later models and they ain't fun.
That white stuff on the last picture could be your problem. Even if it's not it's not ideal. Before you put the new one on you can probe for voltage with the switch set on low and rule out any problems upstream.
02-17-2017, 09:48 PM
