blower fan not working
#1
blower fan not working
Question? I have a 1994 pickup 2.4 liter the blower fan has stopped working I have replaced it and it still didn't work so I sent it back the relay switch works I believe because I could feel it click when I tried the switch the AC switch did mess up on me when the push button came out could these be related? And if not what else could be the reason the fan isn't working? I have checked the fuses and they are fine! Thanks for you're time
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 8,250
Likes: 0
Received 820 Likes
on
648 Posts
Sigh ... You have an electrical problem. You cannot fix it by feeling something "click." You need to use your multimeter. Don't have one? No excuse for that: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-90899.html
You put your multimeter on the fan connector and check for voltage. No voltage? Work your way back. Voltage? Then your fan motor is bad, so check its resistance to be sure.
You put your multimeter on the fan connector and check for voltage. No voltage? Work your way back. Voltage? Then your fan motor is bad, so check its resistance to be sure.
#3
Super Moderator
Staff
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Anderson Missouri
Posts: 11,788
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
Without a meter you are just guessing. It sounds like motor as the fan will operate on high. On the lower speeds it goes thru a resistor on the blower assembly that controls all other speeds except high. It could be the switch itself. I would check everything else before wanting to change a switch out as that takes a lot of effort to get to it. There is another fuse assembly behind the dash, just above the transmission tunnel about a foot or so that you may not know of.
Going by your description, I don't think it is a resistor but if you change blower motor, you should change the resistor. Toyota used 3 prong and 4 pronged resistors. Pay attention to which one you have. Also do you have a lot of debris in the blower assembly that could keep it from turning? It is possible to get a lot of trash in the blower assembly.
Going by your description, I don't think it is a resistor but if you change blower motor, you should change the resistor. Toyota used 3 prong and 4 pronged resistors. Pay attention to which one you have. Also do you have a lot of debris in the blower assembly that could keep it from turning? It is possible to get a lot of trash in the blower assembly.
Last edited by Terrys87; 12-06-2015 at 12:49 AM.
#4
Thanks guys for the information I do know the blower moter is working on my pickup because we hooked a hot wire up to it after we took it out and it turned with power hooked up to it from a battery so it must be electrical in the switch or blower moter resistor maybe? lol
#6
No the motor did not work at all after I installed the new one it did nothing so after I took it out I tested the old one by hooking a hot wire to it directly from the battery and it works fine :-)I will be taking a multimeter to it nextI'm trying to track down the problem question? What all should I check Thanks
#7
Registered User
If it's any help, on my 92 22re my switch is all buggered up. Only works on low. I replaced the resistor pack before I narrowed it down to the switch. (Yes I should have tested with multimeter) From what I understand it's common for these plastic fan speed switches to overheat and melt over time. Kinda a pain in the ars to replace since a significant portion of the dash need to come out to replace the thing. Refer to posts:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-227171/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ch-help-76815/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-227171/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ch-help-76815/
Trending Topics
#8
After you get your volt-meter...
Chances are your schematic would be same or similar to first-gen's like below, but it is your responsibility to verify.
As mentioned above (AFTER YOU VERIFY THE SCHEMATIC) you need to measure voltage, not just look.
If you are absolutely sure that the heater relay clicks, AND motor is good, but motor does not turn even in "HIGH" position, possible causes of problem are:
(1) Heater fuse blown,
(2) Wiring from heater fuse to motor positive side broken
(3) Wiring from motor negative to one side of speed control switch broken.
Recommended test points are, AFTER HEATER RELAY CLICKS:
Set to DC voltmeter setting. Black probe to ground.
Probe points A and B of heater fuse with red probe. You should have 12V.
Red probe to connector to pin 1 of motor; should have 12V.
Connect red probe to battery positive.
Connect black probe to connector on negative side of motor. You should read 12V
Black probe to pin 2 of speed control switch. You should read 12V
Pls let us know what should be there that you do not see. then, we'll go from there.
Chances are your schematic would be same or similar to first-gen's like below, but it is your responsibility to verify.
As mentioned above (AFTER YOU VERIFY THE SCHEMATIC) you need to measure voltage, not just look.
If you are absolutely sure that the heater relay clicks, AND motor is good, but motor does not turn even in "HIGH" position, possible causes of problem are:
(1) Heater fuse blown,
(2) Wiring from heater fuse to motor positive side broken
(3) Wiring from motor negative to one side of speed control switch broken.
Recommended test points are, AFTER HEATER RELAY CLICKS:
Set to DC voltmeter setting. Black probe to ground.
Probe points A and B of heater fuse with red probe. You should have 12V.
Red probe to connector to pin 1 of motor; should have 12V.
Connect red probe to battery positive.
Connect black probe to connector on negative side of motor. You should read 12V
Black probe to pin 2 of speed control switch. You should read 12V
Pls let us know what should be there that you do not see. then, we'll go from there.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post