bad truck. dies. runs like crap. jerks alot.
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok..my truck. 1990 runner. V6. 5 speed.
Issues.
Cel kicks on for a minute several times a day. When it does the truck drops idle and dies. If u catch it right I can bring it back running. My dizzy plug, that plugs into the engine harness is frayed. Like..its crap. I've been told that's the issue. It plugs into rhe stater inside the dizzy. Can't find it at a yota dealer and they want 324$ for th housing.
Next issue. 4*4 will hardly work. But when it does, it does. Its the lever activated. I hear the relay clicking but it dosent engage all the time. I have no way to jack it up and yes the light work's.
Issue
Yhis things jerks like a seizing heroin addict. Usually in low rpm in any gear. Especially is first or 2nd no matter what speed.
Im homeless and live in the truck and cant afford a new dizzy. Anyyjing I can do cheap to check this stuff out. Especially the stater.
Thanks
TEP
Issues.
Cel kicks on for a minute several times a day. When it does the truck drops idle and dies. If u catch it right I can bring it back running. My dizzy plug, that plugs into the engine harness is frayed. Like..its crap. I've been told that's the issue. It plugs into rhe stater inside the dizzy. Can't find it at a yota dealer and they want 324$ for th housing.
Next issue. 4*4 will hardly work. But when it does, it does. Its the lever activated. I hear the relay clicking but it dosent engage all the time. I have no way to jack it up and yes the light work's.
Issue
Yhis things jerks like a seizing heroin addict. Usually in low rpm in any gear. Especially is first or 2nd no matter what speed.
Im homeless and live in the truck and cant afford a new dizzy. Anyyjing I can do cheap to check this stuff out. Especially the stater.
Thanks
TEP
Last edited by theerroneouspenguin; 01-31-2014 at 11:46 AM.
#2
Registered User
Sorry to hear that bro. Hope things improve for you.
Try and pull codes to see what exactly is going on. Stick a paperclip in TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic port next to the engine bay fuse box and turn the key to "ON" but don't start it. Count the flashes until it loops back around and let us know what you get.
As far as the plug, yes, that will kill the engine. You'll need to go to a junkyard then and find a good dizzy connector from these engines. Cut it off with plenty of wire to spare and solder (do not use butt-connectors here) it to the existing wires.
As for the 4x4, check a thread that just popped on on here. Someone else is having the same issues and has lots of good info.
Try and pull codes to see what exactly is going on. Stick a paperclip in TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic port next to the engine bay fuse box and turn the key to "ON" but don't start it. Count the flashes until it loops back around and let us know what you get.
As far as the plug, yes, that will kill the engine. You'll need to go to a junkyard then and find a good dizzy connector from these engines. Cut it off with plenty of wire to spare and solder (do not use butt-connectors here) it to the existing wires.
As for the 4x4, check a thread that just popped on on here. Someone else is having the same issues and has lots of good info.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Sorry to hear that bro. Hope things improve for you.
Try and pull codes to see what exactly is going on. Stick a paperclip in TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic port next to the engine bay fuse box and turn the key to "ON" but don't start it. Count the flashes until it loops back around and let us know what you get.
As far as the plug, yes, that will kill the engine. You'll need to go to a junkyard then and find a good dizzy connector from these engines. Cut it off with plenty of wire to spare and solder (do not use butt-connectors here) it to the existing wires.
As for the 4x4, check a thread that just popped on on here. Someone else is having the same issues and has lots of good info.
Try and pull codes to see what exactly is going on. Stick a paperclip in TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic port next to the engine bay fuse box and turn the key to "ON" but don't start it. Count the flashes until it loops back around and let us know what you get.
As far as the plug, yes, that will kill the engine. You'll need to go to a junkyard then and find a good dizzy connector from these engines. Cut it off with plenty of wire to spare and solder (do not use butt-connectors here) it to the existing wires.
As for the 4x4, check a thread that just popped on on here. Someone else is having the same issues and has lots of good info.
And dont worry about us. Everything happens for a reason and when we come out of rhis we will be much stronger people. Were not worried. Patience.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Also..another issue
My from left wheel bearing, I think is shot.
When its cold cold, like, this morning in boulder, it sound like its grinding when the wheel is turning. Not a whooshing sound I got on my civic. But its a grinding. I know someone knows what the sound is. Just just cant describe it.
Coming from my driver front. Once I run the teuck for a while it stops. But when its super cold and just starting driving, its bad. Sounds like 2 grinds for every rotation of the wheel.
My from left wheel bearing, I think is shot.
When its cold cold, like, this morning in boulder, it sound like its grinding when the wheel is turning. Not a whooshing sound I got on my civic. But its a grinding. I know someone knows what the sound is. Just just cant describe it.
Coming from my driver front. Once I run the teuck for a while it stops. But when its super cold and just starting driving, its bad. Sounds like 2 grinds for every rotation of the wheel.
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Check your vac lines from the front dif and trace them up to the VSV's on the pass side fender. I believe that the green VSV or vacum box what ever its called is the one you are looking at. I had the same problem with my 90's 4x4. Found the vac lines swapped. works like a charm now. Good luck!
#6
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Memphis, TN
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Check your intake for any holes/leaks.. If there is any, your truck will buck a lot at lower rpm. Mine did until I replaced all of the intake. Duct tape it tight and it may fix your issue!
#7
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Thread Starter
Does anyone know how to fix cracked plastic on the rad? Can you plastic weld? Mines cracked and being held together with rtv.
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#8
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No, your air intake. Something about a messed up intake makes the TPS throw a fit, especially at low RPMs. From the air boxes to the throttle body, check for any major cracks or leaks. If you find some, duct tape them shut and it may fix your bucking issue.
#11
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Thread Starter
Its the plug that comes sort of out of the dizzy and connects to the plug very close to the oil filler cap.
I sent a pm.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
OK. Went to start the truck today and all kinds of relays were clicking. On both sides of the dash. Drivers and passenger sides. Battery is dead also.
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