DetroitStyle

iTrader: (1)

I'm in the garage found SDORI ball joint spacers up front... And trying to remove the stock bolts... It appears that the heads are round? I've trying lightly just banging the bolts out... But don't want to screw anything up.... Are the stock bolts threaded up in there? Or just pressed in? Keep banging?

skoti89

im sorry. explain a little more. your trying to remove your upper ball joints to install the spacers?
it may be the beer, but for some reason I dont under stand what your saying.lol

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

I'm not quite following your post. Are you trying to install BJ spacers? And you have the new hardware to put the spacers in with? And you're just trying to get the old bolts out of the current ball joints in order to re-use them?

If yes to all of that, then yes, bang away. Just be careful to not hit the BJ boot or stem. Some BJ's come with nuts and bolts but many come with nuts and pressed in studs. That is how mine were and sounds like yours too. Just support the base on something solid with a void for the stud to fall into. A deep socket or slightly open vice works well.

Good luck.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

After re-reading your post, I'm thinking you already have BJ spacers. If so, those round heads are allen bolts and not pressed or threaded. If they are not sliding out it is probably due to crud and/or corrosion. In that case, penetrating oil, time, and a light touch are your friends.

xxxtreme22r

Nut and/or 2 nuts one being lock nut on top and the lower I believe is an allen head.

Those bolts go all the way though.

DetroitStyle

iTrader: (1)

Sorry my first post wasn't clear... was typing from my phone... stupid autocorrect was changing words.

I am in the process of installing the SDORI ball joint spacers up front and cannot seem to get the stock bolts out. My local mechanic tells me that they are pressed in. Is that true?

DetroitStyle

iTrader: (1)

xxxtreme22r

Instructions: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...owTo.shtml#4WD

topdog63

Yes those studs are pressed into the ball joint it's self. It's kinda like a wheel stud. You have to pound them out. If you want to save the threads on those studs, put the nuts back on there so that it covers the end threads so they don't get boogered up from whacking them with a hammer. Good luck. It shouldn't be too hard. I might suggest that since you already have the ball joints mostly out, go get some new ones to put in then you don't have to worry about it for a while. Also, if this is a driver and not just a wheeler, go get an alignment. The $50 alignment will save you hundreds in tires down the road.

DetroitStyle

iTrader: (1)

I have that printed out here with me. All it says is "remove the ball joint hardware" and "Press out the studs with a small hammer"

My stock studs sure look like they are threaded all the way down, but the head of the studs is pretty much round. I pretty much to the point now where I know if I hit them any hard, it's going to start bending and fusing stuff together... looks like I'm buying new balljoints.

topdog63

Probably best. It will save you from having to replace them again very soon. Make sure you get some that you can grease.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

New ones may still have those studs in them and they will still need to be dealt with. If you can pop out your current ones in one piece you can get a better approach at those studs. If you want to try to save them you will probably do better with the screw down type of puller rather than a pickle fork. When I did mine way back when, I used a pickle fork as I planned on replacing them anyway, but then as I was removing them I figured they looked in pretty good shape and if I could get them out in one piece they might make decent spares. The pickle fork tore up the boots though and that was that.

DetroitStyle

iTrader: (1)

yeah, we just used the fork and it tore the boot and, as far as I can tell, destroyed the ball too. No choice now, calling around.

Thanks for the assistance guys... hopefully the re-install goes smoother. I swear, I'm never buying a rusty Michigan truck again

DetroitStyle

iTrader: (1)

OK, calling it quits for the day. I thought the front would be easier than the rear (LC coils!). Picking up new ball joints tomorrow morning and back at it. Hopefully re-assembly should be easy now that everything it removed, cut, notched, clean, etc... just slap 'em together and bolt it up!

DetroitStyle

iTrader: (1)

Well... just a quick update. This morning STARTED with a pleasant surprise, which was that my MOOG ball joints DID NOT come with the bolts pressed in! Sweet! one less headache.

Driver's side went great. Passenger side = stock ball joint stud is completely frozen in there. I had to give up for the day... but here it is with the driver's side done and on the ground.



and yeah, I think it's just an optical illusion in the garage... I don't think the front is really higher than the rear... because when we were done with JUST the rear LC coils... it looked level inside the garage and jacked in the back when it was outside. It's something about the garage that makes the front look higher.

DetroitStyle

iTrader: (1)

and she's done

Utah4Runner86

iTrader: (1)

Looks good. Did you check for rubbing on the upper a-arm? It's pretty common for the arm to rub on the sidewall, especially at droop.

DetroitStyle

iTrader: (1)

Here it is outside... Thanks for the help yotatech!