dem0nk1d

so i just wanted to replace the upper ball joint, and found a way to get it out. but it just will not pop off the spindal. i tried a pickel fork, and i must say that forked the ball joint all to hell. i used a 7/8 openend wrench to undo the bottom bolt, and there isn't any space to put a ball joint seprator while it's attached to the spindal.

so whats yout guys methods?

iamsuperbleeder

I used a pitman arm puller...

it was a TIGHT fit... and was almost impossible to turn a wrench on the tool... but it managed...

dem0nk1d

no kidding all have to take a look at it when i get home after work tomorrow. did you undo the two bolts that hold the brake-line / brake-line bracket?

mastacox

Using a 2-arm puller, put some pressure on the ball joint and smack the upper knuckle where the ball joint is with a mini-sledge. It should pop right out.

If it doesn't pop out, tighten the puller some more and use the sledge again. It will give eventually. We just changed my buddy's upper and lower ball joints last weekend; it was somewhat easier to pull the entire knuckle out so we could work on it on a bench.

desertcamper67

If you are accurate with your swing, you don't need anything but a hammer as long as the weight is off the upper control arm. You might get a better swingif the brake caliper is pulled out of the way. Leave the nut on the ball joint loose while you smack the knuckle area where the bj goes through it. It should drop. It might help to undo the lower ball joint too.

Matt16

Pitman puller. Forget the pickle fork- they are pretty useless tools IMO. The BJ studs going to be in there tighter than a virgin's daughter.

dem0nk1d

so it will be easier just to pull the whole spindle off then. i also need to remove the axel at the front diff correct?

Azca

I just did mine, not too bad but I had one lower that really did not want to come out. I had to use two pickle forks. Also, if it does not pop from applying pressure from one side, switch it 180 degrees and work from the other. I used a 6 lb hammer for about 15 or so minutes and could not get mine to budge, I flipped it to the other side and bang, came right out.

mastacox

Pickle Fork = Pain

Puller + Sledge = Genius

Team420

haha... I get the pickle fork in there nice and tight, then whack where the stud goes into the knuckle once or twice, and it almost always pops by the second swing....

dem0nk1d

i pulled the whole spindle off. i'm going to replace both balljoints. the upper one had pleny of grease. I know because i tried to use the pickle fork on that one, and smashed the boot all to hell. Any how getting side tracked. Once I pulled the whole spindle off i got the pitman arm puller and it worked like a champ. Also found the lower ball joint was pretty much seized up, no grease at all. How does the hub come off. Do I need to remove the hub lock? i know i read something about the cone washers.

i know i'll search

tidogardner

Team420 I agree with you, it took me like 45 minutes or so to replace the upper ball joint on mine and another 45 or so to do my buddy's 3.0 Pickel fork with the right side up and a sledge, couple whacks and push it down pop its out.

Azca

Don't bother pulling the hub off, no need to. If you have separated the LBJ then just unbolt it from the unit. Also, do one at a time. Top first, put in the new one and then snug it up. Then pull the lower, the A arm will swing out of the way for you. Unbolt it and you are good. Removing it from the drive shaft is completly unesessary and a lot more work to gain nothing.

dem0nk1d

So i replaced both balljoints upper and lower. I greased them up, and no more bouncing squeaking sound while driving. How ever i'm getting a very low tone squeaking like grinding sound when i had the wheel turned really hard to the left. I'm going to try to troubleshoot this issue, but can't seem to see where it's coming from. The whole spindle has been pretty much over hauled, minus the wheel bearing which will be done next weekend. I'll trying to get a sample of the sound today after work.

Team420

I always unbolt the swaybar from the frame to make this easier... no need to wast time with those stupid links that always seem to break when I unbolt them... do it this way, and the swaybar will just flop around... also...obviously... unboltt the shock...

RX729

Just curious, How can a virgin have a daughter...?

sundog kid

My upper ball joint had 300 000 kms on it. and Was very tight.

You can use a pickle fork. Just dont be tender. Beat the crap out of it.

Ive never had to use anything but a pickle fork to get out bj's, tie rods, etc etc.

I think a puller would only be good if your planning on keeping the original part, and dont want to damage it