jasonbrink

Hello-

I just got done replacing my leaky power steering pump with a replacement from my local dismantler.

The "new" pump had the air control valve nipples broken (cut & squished) off when I got it. I just took the one from my original pump off, and put it on the new pump.

When I started the truck up, the idle did not go up when turning lock to lock like it used to before changing the pump out.

I got out the FSM, and it tells about the valve but does not give any procedure to check the function of it.

I marked the lines before removing the valve so I wouldn't put them back on wrong....Been there before....

So, why would a valve work perfectly fine for 100k miles and then not work 5 minutes later when switching it over to a "new" pump? Are there any procedures for testing this valve? Any other stupid little things I may be missing here?

Thanks for your help!

Jason

jpmountainboy

maybe the pump needs to break in??? or leaky vac line.

TNRabbit

I just capped mine off; doesn't make a rat's @$$ worth of difference....

jasonbrink

I know this thing isn't necessary to keep my vehicle running properly, but it makes me mad it worked literally 5 minutes beforehand, in the old PS pump.

Is there ANY way to troubleshoot this dumb thing?

ANYONE?

thanks,

Jason

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

No in or out lines on the valve, all it does is open with power steering fluid pressure and close otherwise. See if the lines connecting to it are open and that there is a vacuum source on one side and the other side hooks to the idle up valve. To test the actual idle up valve, hook the vacuum source line to the idle up valve (bypassing the valve on the p/s pump) and if the idle goes up, then the idle up valve works.

dutchboy

I know this might not make a whole lot of sense...but,the pump AND the rear brakes probably need blead!
I know...you got that question mark popping up above your head,right?
Same thing I did...when I read the Chilton manual about replacing the power steering pump.
I was about to change mine last winter due to a severe leak,but ironically,one day it just stopped leaking (lucky me).
I got me a used one from a guy on here in Ohio,I bought a rebuild (seal) kit for $15.00...rebuilt the used one and got her on the shelf,just incase.
Anyway,while reading the manual...it's a process. Ya gotta bleed the pump,bleed the rear brakes,then bleed the pump again. All the while,going lock to lock,during the bleeding (pump) process.
Be sure to back up what my Chilton manual says by doing further research,especially when it comes to the order of bleeding.
If I remember correctly,the book states that the pump provides vac. for the rear braking system. Now this is for my 90 4runner...so,please research in any manuals you might have.
Good luck and let us know what you come up with...if I'm wrong(well...if my Chilton manual is wrong) :>)

yota.forever

In the toyota facory service manual it says that the washer for the ir control valve must be replaced whenever the valve is removed. Its a use once item. Toyota doesnt sell it as far ad I know. But then I'm in Utah and even the Dealers here dont know much.
The washer, or more like a crush sleeve from the illustrations, do come with a new valve from Toyota.... $120

92TRD

Might be a dumb question, but if your pump is not loading down the engine, then it wouldn't need to bring up your rpms... I took mine apart yesterday and the valve is pretty simple, just a spring loaded design that opens a vac line when the pump pressure is high enough to compress the spring..

Just some thoughts..