Diego toyota

Well, guys it's me again, just got through putting in a new clutch, had to drop the tranny again because it would only go in gears when in park. Changed the slave cylinder an now its drivable.The problem now is it's not going into gear as smoothly. The most difficult is going in Reverse, sometimes it goes in smoothly, other times it grinds, but only in reverse, can someone shed some light on this issue, would hate to drop the tranny for the third time, thanks for the help.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It would be so much easier if you would have just kept it all in one thread.

You now changed the slave cylinder but not the Master Cylinder what about the rubber hose ??

Looking back just why did you decide to change the clutch??

What brand clutch did you install This time ??

At anytime have the shifter bushings been replaced ??

You are pushing the clutch to the floor and made sure the adjustment is correct??

Diego toyota

Wyoming9, don't know what I was thinking, just somewhat overwhelmed about dropping the tranny twice in 3days. The reason I dropped the tranny was that in all gears, instead of accelerating the toy was Reving instead, no power. I had the flywheel resurfaced by the machine shop. Money isn't the best right now so I had the clutch from Autozone. Yes I did change the Shifter bushings. As I mentioned in the last post, which I should not have started a new one, I saw the slave cylinder leaking after I dropped the tranny the second time. Well I'm glad I did because I went to autozone an replaced the clutch, took my time putting it in, making sure the fork an the push out bearing was in place an slapped it in. After that, with the new slave cylinder it went in gear but not as smoothly. Reverse was the worst, after about 9 hours, it wouldn't reverse or any gears. Now this morning I see leakage near the master cylinder. I plan to change that this morning. One thing I have not done is made any adjustments, didn't know I had to. Thanks Wyoming9, for not forgetting about me.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I need to ask is this your first time driving a manual transmission ??

Most of the problems might very well be from your lack of skill at this point.

Just like brakes a burning (Hot ) clutch will not work although one should smell the burning clutch material .

It will slip once it gets hot it will be almost impossible to get into any gear .

This can also be caused by improper adjustment as the clutch disc is in contact with the flywheel at all times or just the opposite

The cheaper the clutch the faster it will get hot the more times it gets hot the shorter the life.

That is one of the major differences between cheap and good clutches the amount of abuse they take

Diego toyota

you're beating me up this morning Wyoming, but I will accept it because you have been a blessing in guiding me in these difficult times "lack of knowledge" thanks again for your assistance. Because of your help, I got through. The reason my toy was not going in gear was due to the slave an master cylinder being bad. After replacing them,bleeding them both, I did some adjustments on the clutch peddle, now it feels like A baby's butt, smoothie. Wyoming9, some of us are only trying with finances, not all yota enthusiasts have strong $$$$.😂😂😂

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Glad you got it sorted out

Not so much $$ just not any debt

abecedarian

*nevermind

89fourrunner

Ive done a few of these, and I can tell you, regardless of what the service manual says for the pedal to master cyl push rod play, you will want to adjust it so when you gently press the pedal by hand that you have left just a milameter or two of free play before contact. If you leave something like a quarter of an inch you are going to have issues. You will most likely have to put the clutch pedal to the floor to put it in gear, which is normal. If you used autozone master and slave you may find adjustments are needed down the road on the master.

Finally, the reverse gear doesnt synchronize so get used to double clutching before throwing it into reverse. Its normal.

ewong

One other thing that I found REALLY helpful is the "block" concept of bleeding the clutch.

On brakes - the pads contact the rotor/drum and STOP. So you get a good bleed.
On the CLUCH, the fork and throw out bearing bottom against the clutch cover fingers, and then "spring" the clutch cover fingers.
The problem is, when you open the bleed screw - the forces act in BOTH directions, and you are bleeding against the sponge of the clutch fingers.

To STOP this, you use a LARGE C Clamp around the slave cylinder. You basically BLOCK the slave from moving the fork too much.
This sets up a solid pressure from the Master/your foot, to the slave. Since the fingers never really depress, they don't come in to play in pushing against the fluid.

I've gotten a MUCH better bleed of the clutch when doing it this way!

ALSO - make sure the floor mat (if you have one) does not restrict the clutch pedal from going ALL the way down.

And -

Check for the dreaded broken / cracked pedal swing bracket.

Diego toyota

Since I have adjusted the clutch pedal, I no need to double clutch to put in reverse, nor do I have to put in first, in order to put in reverse. Barely touching the floor before it engaging. Thanks for the help guys, made it much easier.