Osh Ooh Ahh

I can't find in any picture where this goes nor can I find it in the fsm...
does this even go on my truck? lol it could just be a piece of shrouding from something else but I doubt it....
Here's the pictures of the front and back of the tin piece.... I'm working on a 1988 single cab 4x4 efi 22re

Thanks

Grego92

iTrader: (4)

looks like this piece (not my truck, just found when googled)...attaches to the chasis, like a heat shield from the down pipe. Mine is a 92' and a different shape though.

Osh Ooh Ahh

strangely there is already a piece bolted on in that spot.... and is it the same shape? course not!
I wish I actually knew how many pieces of tin err whatever it's called is supposed to be on board this rig.... having extra parts after a job is always a strange feeling....
thanks for the pic though..... that's one of the few on the web I haven't looked at actually...(cruised a couple thousand pics this evening looking for anything that resembled.... most of the things I saw were for the exhaust manifold(again and again like it's the only piece of tin on the whole ride!) I typed in tin, heat shroud, heat shield, blah blah blah.... still got that same one... then I looked at finding post of procedures that had step by step photos... still never saw it once... and can't believe that the fsm (actually it's just a bentley manual) doesn't just have one of it's hundreds of pages dedicated to a line drawing of the heat shields... ugh..

Killgore Trout

http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...1zzeRpdaJQ.jpg

worked on a 1st gen pickup lately???



top is the exhaust heat shield for an 80 on ebay, below is the heat shield off of MY 1980, in front of yours on the screen.

Osh Ooh Ahh

YES!!!! so does that mean that this is indeed a spare part from another truck? where does it go on your truck?
mmmm
I love it when a good mystery is solved =)
Thanks @ Killgore Trout!

"worked on a 1st gen pickup lately???" yeah... I bought a scrapped out 85' as a gift for my 88 so I could have all the little things and an extra engine core etc.... someone had already robbed the solid axles off of it but then again that's a bigger project than I'm gong for right now.... just trying to get my stock 22re set up right....
the next thing I'm going to do is remove the EGR and cap it's ports soI don't have to clean out all the sludge it shoves into the head....

Killgore Trout

mine goes exactly where the big red arrow points, my only guess is the reason they are different shapes (you said you have a non identical piece in its place already) is the body style change in 85, and as we all know in 1985 toyota was known to stick leftover 84 stuff in sometimes at the factory, so yea, if the bolt holes are in the same place, you have a spare if not, you have a ready to fab heat shield for wherever you want, or weld it to your roof and have a shark fin! lol!

Killgore Trout

btw i deleted the egr on my 80 with a 20r, but being carbed i did it when i was slappin on a weber, i read a good thread on here, i think it was by pumpkin yota, and sort of a reply thread that was slightly more detailed, its super simple just get all the block off plates before hand, if you want it to look original there are ways to make the egr a "dummy egr" that would pass visual inspection

Osh Ooh Ahh

"weld it to your roof and have a shark fin! lol!" YES! (um...maybe?)
well anyhow... that's great...
my 88 actually has become an 85 due to my habit of consolidating trucks....
I bought a good body and a good title....
put them together and now I have an (on paper) 85 but it has all the guts etc of a 88...
that being said though.... I don't think there was efi on 85's was there?
I'm actually in the process of taking off the egr and associated vacuum mess....
it's not too bad... making the plates is fun if not monotonous lol =)
I'm also getting rid of that exhaust recirculation pipe over by the header... can't see why I need it if everyone else just caps it when they buy headers.... one more thing to mess up I figure.... the other thing is of course.... is that I live in AZ and there's no shortage of warm air for my yota.... the less the better!
I wish hadn't broken the ac idle bump solenoid upon removal though.... to the junk yard with me I suppose! (still kinda hard to find though) might just buy a new one? how much could it cost? I heard like $90! if that's the case..... I'll just bump the pedal on my own and wait for a junker to come along with all kinds of goodies for me....

Killgore Trout

leaving an egr on in theory should actually lower combustion temps,....see, the exhaust gas has already been burned, (at least mostly burned) and is somwhere below about 700 degrees when it is reintroduced, since it is not flammable in the way regular air is and since it takes up space in the combustion chamber that will not be occupied by fuel/air now....you get a slowing of combustion which is the same as a "cooler burn" the problem arises in that most of the now nearing antique egr systems are all so gunked up and plugged that all they do is create a plethora of vacuum system leak or blockage possibilites which the picky aisin carb wont like, i like simple and clean, so i went weber, for me its an easy one to work with very basic and serviceable, and it works. and all the smog folks do is run a butt sniffer where i live, and my cat, a little timing retard and idle bump takes care of that

Killgore Trout

if a visual inspection is needed, ive heard you can cut block off shims out of pop cans and use them like block off plates under the egr system,....then jam something in the vac lines or fit them over vac caps, but if the readings are out of spec it will still be a bust, but for the cost of a couple pop cans and vac caps i think its worth a shot

Killgore Trout

my stock 20r tube was smashed flat then rolled over a couple times and pinched in a vise, i have a 22r stock header that was never tapped for the air thingy it wasnt welded it just was cast and never drilled out for an egr,....i dont know how rare this is but im ok with it

Osh Ooh Ahh

yeah.... they only do the butt sniffer here in AZ too.... I suppose they might do a visual but I'm not worried about it because I live outside of a metro area anyways.... so I don't have to do a smog check...=D
The main thing I hear about the egr is that it gunks up the head reeeeeel bad and that I could do without....do you guys have a vsv too? I would suppose not.... I broke mine accidentally and went to find the price for them.... like 56-120 bucks! but then I looked up the function of the vacuum switching valve....(part number 90910 12067) and it seems to be part of the egr system too lucky me! (i think) anyways... if I don't have an egr... then I don't need a vsv right? what else can I take off I wonders? less vacuum lines for me always meant more reliability....I taught meself to work on cars with veedubs and discovered that a centrifugal advance dizzy was superior to a vacuum advance dizzy simply because ultimately vacuum line WILL leak when it's time to replace them.... that and the fact that the curve opens based on rpms and not vacuum which can be adjust rather than rpms ... this can retard your advance and give you a run for your money's worth of troubleshooting if you don't know it's happening... I'd bet that the less vacuum lines the better in general....
looking again I noticed actually that there are two suck devices on my valve cover... with only a single digit part number difference... one is 12067 and one is 12065.... what else can I take off along with this egr anyways?

stanprophet

If you have to pass smog then leave the EGR. You will get a large spike in NoX levels without the EGR working correctly. You can also have some pinging that happens because of increased combustion temperatures. The previous post on EGR operation is correct, by introducing 700 degree exhaust gasses into 2500 degree combustion temperatures is cools combustion and slows the burn down. It also keeps Nitrogen and oxygen molecules from bonding together, also know as Oxides of Nitrogen.

Easiest way to disable it is to make a vacuum line that is blocked on the inside, hook it up to the EGR valve. When the ECM commands the the VSV to apply vacuum to the EGR to open, vacuum never makes it. The EGR effectively sits there idle, and non functional. That way when you have to smog, just hook a vacuum line that is good to the EGR, and you are good to go.

Osh Ooh Ahh

I don't have to smog.
I'm mainly interested in trail reliability and accessibility while I'm working on the truck...
I want to remove as much of the smog equipment as I can without sacrificing engine performance.... I know that removing the egr will not give me any significant performance increase except in the case where the egr is actually malfunctioning.... that being said... mine is not working and I'm not green to shell out bread for things I'm not required to have... no to mention the sludge it seems to coat the inside of the intake etc with ...
SO!!!
can I get rid of both of the vsv?

Killgore Trout

u only need vac lines to the brake booster and distributor

Killgore Trout

the only thing i have remaining is my charcoal canister, but ill most likely delete that too when i do my 22r swap, i will have only the distributor vac lines (one to manifold one to carb) and the one for my brake booster, EVERYTHING else that used to be hooked to vac will be fitted with either a block off plate or a threaded plug, none of it is required to make your engine run, you should have no ecm, you only need vac to affect the diaphragms in the dizzy and brake booster THAT IS ALL, so have fun just be absolutely sure that everything you unhook gets capped off, its fun to go hog wild desmogging but go slow and plug plug plug you wont hurt anything as far as temp,...i have never seen my temp even reach half way up the gauge, that includes stop and go traffic driving all the way to trailer hauling to extended periods of just idling, i have had no predetonation (pinging) what i have had was a bad exhaust leak that made my engine run like crap, i fixed it, now my 32 year old 319xxx mile desmogged 20r with no outward signs of a rebuild ever runs pretty good, these are repurosed forklift engines, it is the government that requires smog equipment, not your engine. OOH, there it an egr crossover bolted the the back of the head, you dont have to take it off, but you can get a look at the grimy badness that collects in there if you remove it, that too can be blocked off with a plate.

Osh Ooh Ahh

I'm into the charcoal canister.... good asset if you ask me... catches liquid fuel from a tipped over rig.... also reuses vapors from fuel system..
I am running a 22RE so it is a lil bit different I wondeR?
I know how things work with the carb setup... done a lot of those... but no cash this sec for a new carb...(though I do have the intake laying about...)
Yeah... an exhaust leak not only is bad for the engine but also stink and sounds GREAT!lol
don't think my dizz has any vacuum lines to speak of... YAY!
yeah... that cast thing on the back of the head? no bigs! put a new gasket and not worried now that I capped off all the other stuff...
Im just worried about the electrical connections left behind after all that device removal...
I rrrrrreeeeeeelllllyyyyy want to be sure about what I NEED and nothing else...
the vsv devices ( there's two) there were a couple more things noted to the valve cover with vacuum lines to them...
I guess... pretty much all the things that are hooked up to vacuum lines!... can I just get rid of everything except power steering and brakes?
I know that I need the brake booster and the power steering one..
do the power steering ones go behind the butterfly or does it matter?
sheesh.. it's a funny thing just "going for it" lol... I already cut up my egr mount plate trying to use it for a block off plate...( I need a plane style sander lolz)
but it wouldn't hold metal when I went to weld the oles shut...... (crap metal?)
good to know about the plate I can add on the back... mebe when I'm bored ya know..?