jaretstuff

Sometime next year I will be in the market for a first generation 4runner. Is there any models or engines to beware of. Which is better 3.0 or 22RE, and Auto or manual transmission. Is there any expensive replacements or common rust areas to be aware of. If you own a 4Runner feel free to reply any positive or negative experiences with the early 4runners. thanks

derockus

iTrader: (1)

Personally, 22RE is better than 3.0 and manual is better than auto. Things to look for in a first gen:

Locking front hubs
Wheel well rust, rust under rear seats, windshield frame rust
Working rear window
Timing chain (specifically: is it loose, are the guide plates original [and likely broken] or have they been replaced with metal-backed guides)
Can you do a compression test?
Rear suspension is often sagged out if it's original (look up ZUK mod)

Good luck!

jaretstuff

Thanks for the info, are the autos ok I'm more of an auto guy myself. And the 3.0 is it a turnoff or just not as good as the 22re

RJR

First thing you should do is spend a few weeks of evenings reading relevant threads on this forum, going back a year or two. There's a huge amount of great information (and plenty of opinions) on what to look out for, and what issues people are dealing with on these old trucks.

The advice in the previous post is good. As far as engines are concerned, it's a question of power vs. simplicity, and to some extent reliability (although plenty of 3.0's are running fine at 200,000+ miles, so the 3.0 is definitely not trash.) The 22re is simpler and easier to work on. It has a gear driven transfer case, which some feel is more rugged, but I've never heard of anyone breaking the chain driven case that comes with the 3.0, either. Since you live in Ohio, essentially at sea level, the 22re will provide adequate power, but either engine will be a definite step down from the 3.4 in your T100. If you were in Colorado, you'd definitely want the V6. I agree with going for the manual. I think the 22re only comes that way. There's just a lot more to go wrong with a high mileage auto tranny, and it'll rob you of needed performance.

If you decide to look at a V6, check when the timing belt was last changed, and take the VIN number to your Toyota dealer to check on the head gasket recall. (not sure how far back the head gasket recall applied - may not apply to the years you are interested in.)

This link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_4Runner will give you a quick summary of the various options and configurations available for the 1st gen 4runners.

jaretstuff

Thanks for the advice on it. I can drive stick I just prefer auto for a nonperformance rig. Nice comparison between the 3.0 and the 3.4 in my truck. I've actually been reading quite a few threads on them. Redeths, chefyota, and rusteds v8 runner.

derockus

iTrader: (1)

I guess they're OK but everyone seems to like the manuals better, I know I do. Much more control over your powertrain. Also, just less things to break (no solenoids, coolers, etc).

IMO, the 22RE is the better motor. It's easier to work on for a variety of reasons; it's smaller so things are more accessible, it only has 1 head and 1 head gasket, timing chain instead of timing belt, 22RE=112hp 3VZE=145hp, better mpg on 22RE.

One big benefit of the 3.0 is that you can pull it out and swap in later model 3.4L V6 which everyone adores. I have no experience other than seeing a lot of threads about it, but supposedly it's "easy".

jaretstuff

I love my 3.4 powerful and gets good mpg I guess getting a 3.0l one so I can get a 3.4 down the road is a big plus

derockus

iTrader: (1)

Good advice, read old threads!

I live in CO at 5800ft and routinely take my truck to the 8000 ft ski area, over 12,000ft mountain passes, cruise the highway at 70mph, and never had so much as a hiccup. I respectfully disagree that the V6 is any better at elevation. (Full disclosure, 4K on rebuild with RV cam... BUT I'd put it up against a new rebuilt 3VZ and believe it would hold its own!).

jaretstuff

Nice 4runner. How much does a head gasket fix cost and how much would it take to rebuild a 4cyl in these?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It all comes down to what your needs are.

What will be the main use of the 4Runner mine is a 4Wheel Drive grocery hauler.

About all it gets used for.

I would not drive my 22REC on the interstate not enough horsepower to drive with the idiots.

If your going hard core off road a Automatic might be better than a manual if your not going to run double cases you will be changing the clutch way to often

20 year old Salt belt truck is going to some frame and floor attention if it has not been done.

My bad I did not read real careful .

Is this going to be a project wheels up restore /rebuild or looking to buy one ready to drive with only minor work needed??

v_man

Looks like we've been up some of the same roads Derockus ...




My truck was only functional in 4 lo up at 12k feet ... No power whatsoever with normal gearing ...

I've owned both the 22re and 3vze , I prefer 22re for many of the reasons listed by others above . Easy to work on , way simpler engine , (research 'valve clearance check' on a 3vze and see how complex it is compared to a 22re) and of course legendary reliability on 22re .

Power is not too much different , I bet if you ran lower gears on your 22re you'd have acceleration similar to a stock 3vze....

jaretstuff

I'm really not that picky. I would prefer a solid vehicle but I'm ok with gremlins going on with it. I'd like it as a city summer cruiser/light wheeler

jaretstuff

Note: I will be able to scrounge between 2k and 3k how good of a car do you think I could get

v_man

Just an opinion, you will have access to a lot more trucks , and a lot nicer used trucks , with 3k to spend .

2k tends to get a lot of beat up , rode hard , trucks with potential repair issues right off the bat . These trucks hold their value well... I'd buy as solid of a truck as I could up front rather than put a bunch of money into to it down the road ...

jaretstuff

When I'm done with my T100 il have about 1500 left and I can probably get anywhere from 1000 to 1500 working over the summer

derockus

iTrader: (1)

I brought my motor to a builder (everything between and including the oil pan and valve cover). New: piston/rings, crank/bearings, head, LC engineering cam, timing chain/guides, oil pump. All for just under $1700.

Cool trip ain't it! Yeah, definitely in 4Lo the entire time. Both for more power on the steeps and just better speed control negotiating obstacles.

jaretstuff

Ok do after a quick CL search I found 3 under 3000 dollars, one has a lift and 33s and the other to are a little cleaner and more stock but also a lot more.

RJR

The first gen 22re makes 112 hp; the 3vz 145. I don't have a lot of experience with the 22re, but I honestly find it hard to believe that an extra 33 horsepower is of no use whatsoever in getting up the mountain passes of Colorado. I'm glad your 22re runs well, but I doubt you'll be passing many well-tuned 3vz's heading up to the Eisenhower tunnel on I-70, at least not if the V6 is turning a manual tranny. If you're comparing a 22re manual to a 3.0 auto, that's a different story.

The 4 banger is certainly simpler, easier to work on, and has a great reliability record, but I don't think it's equal in power.

Duffdog

I would only buy one if it was from California. My GF just bought one from oregon and EVERY SINGLE mechanical part of the truck was rusted. Every single bolt fought me for hours and I still can't get the drums off of the rear to do the brakes. I will have to throw away both rear axles and replace them with non-rusted california junkyard axles. Rust on mechanical parts is just not worth it. Even stupid stuff like the pilot bearing for the clutch was rusted in place and I had to get a special SST to remove it.

So, in buying a 4runner look for 3 things: Nice interior, No rust anywhere, No repaints. 4runners for sale for 3k are only repainted to hide things. And while were at it, I would stay away from the 3.0, those engines show up for FREE on craigslist.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have had both motors and driven both with automatics as well. Both are a gutless wonder with the automatic but with the 5 speed, both motors are a completely different truck. More personal preference for me with the 5 speed. Some would only have an automatic.

Depending on your mechanical experience, these are 20+ year old trucks. I have paid great money for good trucks and still had issues. Just be prepared to do some work on it. These are easy enough to work on and plenty of info on here to get you going. I have seen people with no experience do great on here.

You being in Ohio, you may need to travel further to find a good truck. Price is going to vary in different areas and conditions. I would travel for a solid truck if it were me.

If you are just wanting a dependable truck, spend the extra money for it. If you like tinkering with things, you can build one on a reasonable budget. Myself, to get in stock condition, I figure 2500-3000 for a build and that is doing the work myself. Part of the fun is finding the deals, learning how to fix things instead of replacing it, and building it the way I want to instead of settling for what ever I can find. You need to factor in the time, money, and your skill set. Time and money you may not be able to change, but you skills you can increase and may surprise yourself. One reason there are so many builds on here.