Raynyc

so i have been working on my 89 SR5 4Runner for a few months getting it sorted out, painted and lifted etc. the motor i haven't gotten to yet , it has the annoying tick that i have read is the valves needing adjusting , the motor has 120k miles on it , i have driven it all of 10 minutes since it needed so much work.
im on the east coast , in Brooklyn NY . no one wants to do these valve adjustments and the 1 person i took it to that said he would do it tells me its a rod knock not the valves.
other than sending out the oil to be tested is there another way to figure it out ? if it is the rod knock should i just rebuild it or do a motor swap of some sort ?
i will get a video up of the truck running by tomorrow .

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

throw a 3.4 in there..

millball

From my way of thinking, you got the cart before the horse.

I make them mechanicly reliable, and by then I'm so pleased with what they can do, and how trouble-free they are, I don't give a rats patoot what they look like.

Might even consider a generally shabby look to be a theft deterrant.

Lottsa $$ saved.

Raynyc

I have done it that way on all my projects except this one . I did a lot of the mechanical work on this right when I purchased it, everything but the ticking . I just didn't think it was that bad to hold me up. The guy that did the body and paint only had a small window to get it done so I didn't want to lose out .

Budman1

I would pull the valve covers and check the valves, if you needed shims, gettum, crank it, go from there....

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Do not guess or take someone elses word for it.. know where your noise originates! Stethoscope costs under ten dollars, link

a nice long dowel, screwdriver or in a pinch your breakerbar will do just fine in isolating noises.

Charchee

There is someone around there that will adjust your valves. One question though. Is this your first older Toyota V6? Most of them have a "tick" to them when they are running right. I'd like to hear it. It may be an issue or it may be the sound a healthy 3VZE makes.

Raynyc

is it easier to do a 3.4 swap than doing a chevy motor swap? either an sbc with fi or a LS swap

Raynyc

cold start


warmed up

Raynyc

Nothing?

Budman1

I've been through a similar problem recently with my '92 4Runner, 3.0vze......
First do a compression check, if it's ok.....check the #2 tensioner, mine was bad......if you get past these two, and the noise is still there...go into the valve shim adjusting mode,
with average mechanical skills you can do the valves, I bought three shims for my engine( I pulled it and am replacing it with another 3.0), costs were about $13 each from my local Toyota Dealership, you can do this........
the 3.4 is a valid option, you can do either........What do you want/need?🤷

128keaton

Everybody always says 'just do a 3.4', which involves difficult wiring, custom fabrication, and fiddling just to get a/c to work. This is stupid.

old87yota

Definitely figure out what the noise is before proceeding.
I am not an expert but that tick/knock does not sound normal.

IF you need a new engine, another 3.0 would be easiest. Sure, the 3VZ-E isn't Toyota's best engine, but it was still better than most when taken care of. I think routine maintenance is the key for the life of any engine. The power to fuel economy ratio isn't too good though.

The 3.4 5VZ-E is a great engine if you are up to the task of making everything work.

I am not personally a big fan of Chevy engine swaps. To me, and most people, the point of buying a Toyota is because of mechanical reliability. To me, it seems kind of pointless to swap in a Chevy engine.

If you want a Chevy engine, just buy a Chevy truck.

In the end though, it is your vehicle and you can do what you like.

Janos01

Agreed. The 3.0 is not worst or most power engine in the world, but if maintained, it is sufficient.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

inconclusive... Listen to the parts and stop guessing. You're to lazy to listen to it I'm also lazy and not going to convert your video to audio and look at the waveforms, but if you really want guesses it's rod knock

Raynyc

i did listen this weekend , its all coming from the top of the motor . so i will get the valves adjusted and see how it goes

Raynyc

and also , thanks very much for the input . i needed it . i still dont know for sure but my oil test kit showed up today , im still going to send it out .

coopster

And then . . .

Raynyc

i didnt do it yet, after running it for a while its gotten really quiet . not sure what that means yet but i have been doing all the other work its needed and will circle back soon

thook

stethoscope is the right idea. i can't tell what it is for sure, but a bad idler pulley (timing belt/water inlet) can make pretty gnarly noise. it's right there at the front of the motor, too

how long have you the vehicle? was it a few months ago that you acquired it?

exhaust leaks around the manifolds can make for a noisy valvetrain. yours is idling pretty well, though