Cotton19

Hello to all, I have the 3.0l V6 in my runner the exhaust has the cat removed so its straight pipe from manifold to a flowmaster muffler everything else is stock, it currently has 223k on the clock, I was thinking on some upgrades like CAI and maybe a throttle body spacer I was hoping to get some feed back if those things would help or hurt and if so some good brands to go with and if there's anything else I could do to up preformance and mpg, it sorta Lugs a little. And my check engine light is also on I figured cause the cat was removed any help on that would be greatly appreciated maybe a way to keep it from tripping while the cat is not there. Thanks

Gamefreakgc

Welcome to the forums, lots of great info here!

First off, you need to find out what that CEL is. That could be the engine trying to tell you there's something wrong. To pull codes, see the service manual on how to do it. Just use a paper clip to jump T1 and E1. Then turn the key to "ON" and count the number of flashes. You might have several codes, so watch it for a while.

I'd put your money towards fixing that issue first. If you get a code 25 or 26 then you might be right about the cat removal causing the issues, but running with a long-term lean or rich condition will not be good on your engine.

As far as upgrades go, you've already done the most solid upgrade with a new exhaust system. CAI gains are negated unless they are actually pulling air outside of the engine bay. Here's a long but very helpful data thread to back it up: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...37/index5.html.

Throttle body spacers will not help this engine. I looked long and hard into it myself and it's not worth the money.

If you're more daring and like ripping apart your engine, I recommend upgrading your injectors to the 4-hole Bosch ones by Flamethrower. I'm very happy with mine, as are others on this forum. Use the search function to find the results people have posted. They run at $120 on Ebay.

The ISR mod is also good in increasing throttle response (no HP gains though), as well as the 7MGE VAFM swap linked in my sig below. I spend just over $100 for the whole mod.

New headers are also good for more HP but pricey, looking at on average $600-$700 for the whole deal.

If you're really, really daring and you want to be a trailblazer, you can put a meth injection kit on your engine and let me know how it goes so I can decide if I want to do it as well

Cotton19

Thanks gamefreakgc where could I get the 7mge vafm to do the swap as well as the isr mod???

cobolt23

95 may had the CAL emmisions. Meaning the downstream sensor is missing, throwing a CEL.

Cotton19

Are u talking about the o2 sensor in exhaust if so the cat appeared to be right under the rear side of the drivers door I can see the piece of pipe they put in its place and there is a 02 sensor right before it it's still there

Gamefreakgc

He means yours might have had two O2 sensors. One before the cat, one after. Not sure how you'd go about checking that though, unless there's a way to decipher the driver's side doorjamb sticker to see if your vehicle was manufactured at the old NUMI plant over in the Bay Area.

I just saw this pop up today about the ISR mod: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...d-pics-145224/. Lots of examples of what people did.

You can do it for less than $20 if you go total DIY, or pick up a Spectre kit like I did for roughly $50.

You'll need the VAFM off an early 90's Toyota Supra or Cressida (7MGE V6 motor) from a junkyard to do the swap. I'd read through the info the whole way first and decide if that's something you'd really want to do or not. It does work but it takes a bit of tuning to get it right.

Cotton19

Oh ok, so I just run a test on the check engine light the code is 52 what would be the fix for this????

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Oh damn. That's the spark knock sensor. The spark knock sensor is located under the intake manifold, under the intake plenum. The wire gets brittle with age and eventually cracks and breaks. If you haven't searched already, you'll find what this job entails. Man, if you've been driving with a code 52, you are going to be pleasantly surprised at the power when you fix this issue.

Pro-tip: I relocated the spark knock sensor into the engine hook with a new wire, until I had the time to properly complete the job.

Cotton19

Yes I been doing research I'm going to go ahead and do it right be replacing the injectors with flamethrowers soon I'm gonna do it then, do I have to replace the wire all the way to the computer or just the one from the sensor to the quick disconnect??

Gamefreakgc

If you're going that deep, just go the whole nine yards. BTW, this link is going to be your best friend:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

Everything you need to know on how to assemble/dissemble your engine.

Before you start, take lots of pictures! There's so many hoses, lines, wires, etc. that you have to remove that you're going to forget where they all go again! Speaking from experience here. Here's what I recommend doing while you are down there:

1. Valve adjustment. Or at the very least checking the valve clearance. I gained a good amount of power back since I had an exhaust valve stuck open (thankfully no damage though). The valve shims are special order from Toyota FYI.

2. Replace PCV valve on passenger side valve cover. Must easier to do when you can take the valve cover off.

3. Clean throttle body. When it's off the plenum, take it off and clean up all those years of grime. Be sure to oil the rotating valve inside before you put it back together or it might stick. If yours was really nasty, you'll notice better idle and better performance at WOT (slightly, but better).

4. You're on the right track with the Flamethrower injectors, I'm really happy with mine. Changed my power curve, I now shift at 2200 RPM (down to 1500) with as much power as when I shifted around 2700 RPM. That's with going from completely reman'd injectors, I'm sure it is more dramatic going from old stock ones. Be sure to order 8 new copper gaskets on the fuel line, also at Toyota dealer part. Unless you like fuel leaks .

5. Be ready to replace hoses and gaskets. Every old gasket you remove will need a new one. You'll crack, break and sometimes cut (silly PAIR valve hose) hoses to get things off. This is normal for rubber that's 20+ years old. If it's questionable, replace it.

That's all I can think of right now. Don't feel this is a "must do", but rather preventative stuff so you don't have to go through the trouble of taking off the air chamber again any time soon.

Cotton19

Thanks for the info that's good stuff to know

scope103

It has nothing to do with where it was manufactured, but for which market. My CA truck was built in Japan. The easiest way to tell is to look at the sticker under the hood. For Cotton19, the next easiest way would be to pick up the Diagnostic Code (as he did); only CA trucks can have code 27.