AustinMyers

I super desperate for any help I can get from you guys. I have never made a forum post in search of help before, but I cannot figure this one out and need yalls help.

I pulled my t100 daily driver with around 170k miles into the garage the other day to change my brake rotors and pads. As I pulled in, I noticed it struggling and acting like I had it in a higher gear than I needed, even though it was in first gear. I attributed it to the cold weather and my not allowing it to warm long enough since it was a little colder than usual for my area. After I changed one set of rotors and pads I had my wife hop in and attempt to start the truck in order to bleed the line. The first couple of revolutions sounded productive, and normal, then there was a noise that sounded as though the bottle of brake fluid had fallen into the engine compartment, so I told her to stop cranking. I then went to get the bottle out, and saw that nothing had fallen into the engine compartment. After checking all the fluids and everything visually, I decided it was okay to attempt to crank again. This time no start. It cranked, had spark at the plugs, had fuel, but no start. So I checked the fuel filter, and it was extremely dirty, so I replaced it and still no start. At this point it was late at night so I went home and got some sleep. The next day about 9 hours later I came back to the shop and tried to see if it would start. Again the first couple of revolutions seemed very productive as though It would start, but nothing. So I check all my fuses, check my distributor cap which was just replaced 7 months ago and it all looks good. So I assume it couldn't hurt to put new plug wires and plugs in it to see if it helped. Still no start. Cleaned the air filter and air filter area. Sprayed ether. Checked the fuel rail for good pressure. Still no start, but I can smell fuel still after attempting to start it, and so I assume that the fuel injectors must be flooding the cylinders so I replace the ecm, and still nothing. But every single day that I attempt to crank, only the first 4 or so revolutions seem as though it is going to start and then for the rest of the day no matter how many times I try to crank it, there is no start. Check engine light is on, but when I try to get a code it just continually blinks which I read means there is no code. I thought the timing belt might be an issue, but it was just replaced 7 months ago as well.

The truck ran completely fine before this other than two things.
It kept blowing the efi fuse until I traced the wire and found an area where the wire jacket had rubbed through and touched the tranny. Since then it has not blown the fuse again, and that was about a month ago.

Maybe two months ago, I tried to start it on a cold morning and it acted funny like it was having trouble starting. After 3 or so turns of the key, it fired right up. And it only happened that once.

Is there something I'm missing here? Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated#

scope103

Flooding sounds like a possibility. Start by disconnecting the electrical connector to the cold start injector, just in case. Then, after a crank-no-start, pull the plugs to see if they are wet (you have to work quickly; the fuel you are looking for can evaporate.

Do you have any idea what caused the noise you heard on cranking? I would check the compression (because it is easy to do) to look for something obvious.

AustinMyers

I did a check on the igniter and coil and the coil seems to be malfunctioning. I have ordered a new coil and igniter. I believe that will be the problem because the igniter is what tells the ecm when to inject fuel. As for the noise that the truck made, it is very possible that a tool could have fallen from the engine bay to the floor and I mistook it for an engine sound. I will see if this fixes it and if it does I will update the post. Thank you for your reply.

scope103

How did you do that? (Checking an igniter, so far as I have learned, is pretty difficult.)

Close, but not quite. The injectors are triggered by the G1 signal from the distributor. But the igniter sends the IGF signal to the ECM when the igniter has confirmed that the plugs have fired. If the ECM doesn't receive the IGF signal for about 6 ignition cycles, the ECM shuts off the injectors ... AND throws Code 14. http://web.archive.org/web/201211190...85diagnosi.pdf

If you don't have code 14, I doubt you have an igniter problem. If you DO have code 14, it's more likely the wire from the igniter to the ECM than the igniter itself (even the FSM agrees).

Should you care? Could it hurt to replace the igniter on a guess-and-by-golly? Well, not if you've got $350 burning a hole in your pocket. http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/...962112050.html (RockAuto has after-market ones for about $150). What did you pay?

If you care, here's everything I know about igniters: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...gniter-287857/