94' 22RE Tick + High idle, advise appreciated
12-17-2011, 11:25 PM
#1
94' 22RE Tick + High idle, advise appreciated
Hey all,
Great community you've got here.
I purchased a 94' 22RE Pickup with 99K about 2.5 years ago before I knew much about vehicles at all. Since then I've bought and sold a 89' VW Vanagon, and picked up some mechanical confidence along the way. The truck just hit 114k a week ago.
Just got the 94' back on the road after it sat from May to December while I was in Alaska and it has a few issues that I'm trying to diagnose. These issues developed about a year ago, though the 'ticking' that I'll describe may have been present all along.
The truck has a strangle idle problem. On a cold start the truck idles very high , between 1400 and 1750 RPMs. If I'm on flat ground, I can put the truck in 1st gear and without giving it gas, as I slowly engage the clutch, the truck will start moving forward.
As the truck heats up, the idle drops considerably. If I've been driving enough for the coolant to heat up to ~50% on the gauge, the vehicle will stall when no throttle is being applied. For instance, I'll be cruising at 45 in 4th gear, disengage the clutch, and the truck will stall out, then engaging the clutch pop stars it again.
This hasn't been much of an issue lately, as it's been cold lately, and the engine hasn't been getting warm. In the summer it was VERY frustrating, especially in stop and go traffic, having to constantly feather the throttle at stop lights to keep it from stalling.
ALSO -- the engine has a ticking noise that I haven't been able to diagnose. I searched the forum but didn't have much luck. I took a video with decent sound -- maybe you pros on this forum will have some idea:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNC3a...pAW28qY5SIGXl0
Many I've talked to say that 22RE's just tick "naturally", but if this a warning sign, I'd like to catch it. Previous owner said the timing chain had been serviced, but who knows if that's true. I plan to check the chain guides soon, just trying to muster up the courage to pull the valve cover.
Anyways -- that's the story.
Great community you've got here.
I purchased a 94' 22RE Pickup with 99K about 2.5 years ago before I knew much about vehicles at all. Since then I've bought and sold a 89' VW Vanagon, and picked up some mechanical confidence along the way. The truck just hit 114k a week ago.
Just got the 94' back on the road after it sat from May to December while I was in Alaska and it has a few issues that I'm trying to diagnose. These issues developed about a year ago, though the 'ticking' that I'll describe may have been present all along.
The truck has a strangle idle problem. On a cold start the truck idles very high , between 1400 and 1750 RPMs. If I'm on flat ground, I can put the truck in 1st gear and without giving it gas, as I slowly engage the clutch, the truck will start moving forward.
As the truck heats up, the idle drops considerably. If I've been driving enough for the coolant to heat up to ~50% on the gauge, the vehicle will stall when no throttle is being applied. For instance, I'll be cruising at 45 in 4th gear, disengage the clutch, and the truck will stall out, then engaging the clutch pop stars it again.
This hasn't been much of an issue lately, as it's been cold lately, and the engine hasn't been getting warm. In the summer it was VERY frustrating, especially in stop and go traffic, having to constantly feather the throttle at stop lights to keep it from stalling.
ALSO -- the engine has a ticking noise that I haven't been able to diagnose. I searched the forum but didn't have much luck. I took a video with decent sound -- maybe you pros on this forum will have some idea:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNC3a...pAW28qY5SIGXl0
Many I've talked to say that 22RE's just tick "naturally", but if this a warning sign, I'd like to catch it. Previous owner said the timing chain had been serviced, but who knows if that's true. I plan to check the chain guides soon, just trying to muster up the courage to pull the valve cover.
Anyways -- that's the story.
12-18-2011, 03:36 AM
#2
IMO, It's not a warning sign, its just valve noise that gets louder with age. If it keeps getting louder then adjusting your valves should quiet them down some. A louder exhaust will help take your mind off of it. 
About the stalling, when was the last time you did a tune up? Fuel filter, cap, button, plugs, wires? Are there any vacuum lines cracked?
You can check the chain guides by pulling the valve cover and shining a flashlight down the timing cover. If the guides are worn or cracked/chipped then it might be time to replace the chain and guides.
About the stalling, when was the last time you did a tune up? Fuel filter, cap, button, plugs, wires? Are there any vacuum lines cracked?
You can check the chain guides by pulling the valve cover and shining a flashlight down the timing cover. If the guides are worn or cracked/chipped then it might be time to replace the chain and guides.
12-18-2011, 09:33 AM
#4
IMO, It's not a warning sign, its just valve noise that gets louder with age. If it keeps getting louder then adjusting your valves should quiet them down some. A louder exhaust will help take your mind off of it.
About the stalling, when was the last time you did a tune up? Fuel filter, cap, button, plugs, wires? Are there any vacuum lines cracked?
You can check the chain guides by pulling the valve cover and shining a flashlight down the timing cover. If the guides are worn or cracked/chipped then it might be time to replace the chain and guides.
About the stalling, when was the last time you did a tune up? Fuel filter, cap, button, plugs, wires? Are there any vacuum lines cracked?
You can check the chain guides by pulling the valve cover and shining a flashlight down the timing cover. If the guides are worn or cracked/chipped then it might be time to replace the chain and guides.
I'll also look into a valve adjustment.
No vacuum lines visibly cracked, but I'll have to read up on some of the tests to check them and do that.
There's a minor exhaust leak at the headers that popped back up after having it repaired back in May. I've been battling rusty exhaust issues the whole time I've owned the truck, patching holes here and there. Any idea what it would cost me to replace the exhaust, headers all the way back? Good ol' New England rust... why do we live here again?
At least the frame is in pretty good shape... minus that one rear crossmember.Thanks for the input folks!
ine has been badly neglected.
12-18-2011, 10:53 AM
#6
I'm trying my best to get the truck back 'up to speed'. Invested a good chunk of change replacing the front lower control arms, bushings, and all 4 shocks to pass inspection.
Other than the tick and the idle, the engine runs strong. Has never left me stranded. I think this truck still has plenty of life in it with some TLC.
Other than the tick and the idle, the engine runs strong. Has never left me stranded. I think this truck still has plenty of life in it with some TLC.
12-18-2011, 12:17 PM
#9
Sounds like a little valve tap and an exhaust leak to me.
I personally have never went to the dealer for tune up parts, but others around here would probably recommend it.
The rusty exhaust isn't that hard to fix..You could get a new, decent header for around $150 - $200. Might get one cheaper if you find someone selling one. I went with a copper exhaust gasket..first time trying them and so far I'm happy.
There is the link to Service manuals in my sig, their very handy.
No tune up since I've owned the vehicle. I'll pony up and throw down the cash to replace everything on that list. Should I just do factory/OEM?
I'll also look into a valve adjustment.
No vacuum lines visibly cracked, but I'll have to read up on some of the tests to check them and do that.
There's a minor exhaust leak at the headers that popped back up after having it repaired back in May. I've been battling rusty exhaust issues the whole time I've owned the truck, patching holes here and there. Any idea what it would cost me to replace the exhaust, headers all the way back? Good ol' New England rust... why do we live here again? At least the frame is in pretty good shape... minus that one rear crossmember.
Thanks for the input folks!
I'll also look into a valve adjustment.
No vacuum lines visibly cracked, but I'll have to read up on some of the tests to check them and do that.
There's a minor exhaust leak at the headers that popped back up after having it repaired back in May. I've been battling rusty exhaust issues the whole time I've owned the truck, patching holes here and there. Any idea what it would cost me to replace the exhaust, headers all the way back? Good ol' New England rust... why do we live here again?
At least the frame is in pretty good shape... minus that one rear crossmember.Thanks for the input folks!
The rusty exhaust isn't that hard to fix..You could get a new, decent header for around $150 - $200. Might get one cheaper if you find someone selling one. I went with a copper exhaust gasket..first time trying them and so far I'm happy.
There is the link to Service manuals in my sig, their very handy.
12-18-2011, 01:10 PM
#10
Sounds like a little valve tap and an exhaust leak to me.
I personally have never went to the dealer for tune up parts, but others around here would probably recommend it.
The rusty exhaust isn't that hard to fix..You could get a new, decent header for around $150 - $200. Might get one cheaper if you find someone selling one. I went with a copper exhaust gasket..first time trying them and so far I'm happy.
There is the link to Service manuals in my sig, their very handy.
I personally have never went to the dealer for tune up parts, but others around here would probably recommend it.
The rusty exhaust isn't that hard to fix..You could get a new, decent header for around $150 - $200. Might get one cheaper if you find someone selling one. I went with a copper exhaust gasket..first time trying them and so far I'm happy.
There is the link to Service manuals in my sig, their very handy.
The header is 'new'. The leak might be coming from the gasket between the header and the engine then. There's a small leak at the muffler, too, but that's besides the point.
The engine definitely has plenty of oil in it.
While I was checking the engine for vacuum leaks today, I noticed an unplugged connector, but I have no clue where it goes to. Took a bunch of pictures:
http://imgur.com/a/Rcv5q
This connector comes from a 'bundle' of 5 wires. The other 4 go to the cold start injector, the vacuum switching valves, and one other spot on the engine.
Like I said, I'm new to messing around under the hood, so excuse my lack of proper vocabulary and confidence. Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far!
12-18-2011, 01:20 PM
#11
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Either the timing chain slapping or something wrong with the valve train. Doesnt sound like a lower end knock, IMO. My 22re's lower end knock didnt sound like that. Take the valve cover off. Its REALLY easy. Look at the chain and valve train. Take pictures for us 
Toyota used the same wiring harness for the trucks regardless of options, so there will be quite a few connectors that dont go anywhere. I have that same plug just chillin' on my 22re.
Toyota used the same wiring harness for the trucks regardless of options, so there will be quite a few connectors that dont go anywhere. I have that same plug just chillin' on my 22re.
12-19-2011, 12:40 AM
#13
12-20-2011, 10:09 PM
#16
12-22-2011, 10:05 AM
#18
Sounds like one valve badly out of adjustment. I bet #4 exhaust, and crawl up there and look at the camshaft lobe for excessive wear. If the high part of the lobe is worn down, you need a vavle job with a cam. Mine sounded just like yours, and the camshaft was wiped. So get a really good bright flashlight, Surefire or high watt trouble light and do a good inspection.
And buy a new gasket, save the agrevation of the old one leaking & do not forget the two half moon end pieces.
And buy a new gasket, save the agrevation of the old one leaking & do not forget the two half moon end pieces.
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