miceal383

I had been driving around with a new Fuel Filter in the backseat for months and finally decided to throw it on after some lurching issues. I have the 3VZE extended cab pickup, and found the filter located half hidden behind the crossmember for the t-case and tranny. the harder to reach fitting was chewed up a bit already, the other fine. I removed the mounting bracket that secures the filter to the chassis, then started with the harder to reach fitting. I figured if I got it loose the rest should be easy. It broke free as expected, and began dripping gas right away, also as expected. The fitting on the inlet side however is completely seized. PB blaster applied daily for a week but it's not budging and the fitting has rounded a bit. My issue is that the outlet fitting is damaged and leaks now. I haven't run into this sort of problem on any other vehicle. I wanted to know what my options are, especially if someone has had this issue before. I've considered cutting the lines, using rubber line, reflaring and moving the filter, using braided fuel line. Just want some advice as it's my only vehicle and my work truck at that. Want to make sure I know what to do and expect since once I start I will be commited to finishing the job.

scope103

The flare nuts are brass, and are quite intolerant of abuse. As in, someone tried any part of this job with a open-end wrench, rather than a flare-nut wrench. The nut will be gently crushed, just a little, and it will never stop leaking.

Some on this site have reported using rubber "fuel" line and fuel line clamps. I just wouldn't have the courage; this is gasoline you're dealing with. Since the nut is almost certainly toast, you'll need to cut that off, and once you do that, you need to replace the fuel line. If the front is currently leaking, my guess is the nut is damaged, and that line will have to be replaced too.

When I've done this in the past, my local parts house had pre-made steel fuel line in a bunch of standard lengths, with the double-flare already done on each end. E.g., : http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2137&ppt=C0333 So you could remove the line on each side, unbend it enough to measure it, and pick up a replacement. Autozone loans a tubing bender; using one is partly art, so you might want to buy one extra line to practice on.

Or, you could get a flaring tool and some male-male couplings, so you could cut out the bad part, put on a nut and flare the end, then connect it all up. Personally, I find making double flares in the field to be pretty difficult; you might have more skill.

This page might give you some ideas: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-218962/

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I have never had any luck trying to flare old aged

fuel line it mostly just cracks. Then being out of position does not help.

I have to agree that fuel filter is in a very hard place to get at. I have had several that needed to be cut off.



If you decide to go the rubber fuel line route you need to use fuel injection hose and the fuel injection clamps made to handle the higher pressures.

Last I bought was @ $7.00 a foot.

If your planning to make your own metal line look at the copper/nickle line if your in the great Salt Belt holds up to corrosion better and is easy to work with

I have used both these methods as well as adding a aftermarket filter .

miceal383

Thanks, that's just the kind of info I was looking for. I'd love to move the filter and use braided fuel line from the filter all the way to the engine since it would eliminate the rubber fuel line adjacent to my headers, but we'll see. Guess I need to do some shopping for parts. Finally seems to have stopped leaking for now, but I think looking at it too hard might instigate a leak. I'll be sure and take some pictures of the completed job, once it's done. Thanks again for the suggestions, experienced input, and referrals to products and relevant threads.