93 4Runner Won't Start After Trying to Jumpstart Truck
#1
93 4Runner Won't Start After Trying to Jumpstart Truck
I have a '93 Toyota 4Runner with the 3.0 VZE. I tried jump starting my F150 when it had a bad battery. The 4Runner didn't have enough juice to start the F150. Without ever shutting the 4Runner off, I tried to drive to go get a new battery for the truck. As I pulled out of the driveway, the 4Runner ran very rough, so I turned around and pulled back in the driveway. After I shut the 4Runner off it wouldn't start again. I suspected that the Alternator did not push enough current over to the F150, so I took it in and had it tested. The alternator tested bad, and so I installed the new one. Along the way of replacing the alternator, I ended breaking the clip that goes into the alternator and so I had to get a new one from the junk yard. The 4Runner still wouldn't start. I was not getting any spark so I checked the coil, and it was a little out of spec, so I replaced it as well. Any thoughts where to go from here? Could trying to jump start from the 4Runner fried the computer?
#2
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Well just what happened ??
Did you get the cables on wrong ??
You say not start Just what do you mean??
It does not turn over ??
It turns over but does not start??
What other electrical circuits work??
Have you read any Voltage any place with a Meter?? Don`t work??
Since your Alternator was alleged to be bad that means your battery was not charging like it should.
At any time did you charge the battery in the 4Runner in the course of this adventure.
The rest of the Electrical system in good shape Battery Terminals clean and Tight??
Just how did you check the coil ?? What readings did you get??
Did you get the cables on wrong ??
You say not start Just what do you mean??
It does not turn over ??
It turns over but does not start??
What other electrical circuits work??
Have you read any Voltage any place with a Meter?? Don`t work??
Since your Alternator was alleged to be bad that means your battery was not charging like it should.
At any time did you charge the battery in the 4Runner in the course of this adventure.
The rest of the Electrical system in good shape Battery Terminals clean and Tight??
Just how did you check the coil ?? What readings did you get??
#4
Originally Posted by jennygirl
Did you check all the fuses?
Originally Posted by wyoming9
Well just what happened ??
Did you get the cables on wrong ??
You say not start Just what do you mean??
It does not turn over ??
It turns over but does not start??
What other electrical circuits work??
Have you read any Voltage any place with a Meter?? Don`t work??
Since your Alternator was alleged to be bad that means your battery was not charging like it should.
At any time did you charge the battery in the 4Runner in the course of this adventure.
The rest of the Electrical system in good shape Battery Terminals clean and Tight??
Just how did you check the coil ?? What readings did you get??
Did you get the cables on wrong ??
You say not start Just what do you mean??
It does not turn over ??
It turns over but does not start??
What other electrical circuits work??
Have you read any Voltage any place with a Meter?? Don`t work??
Since your Alternator was alleged to be bad that means your battery was not charging like it should.
At any time did you charge the battery in the 4Runner in the course of this adventure.
The rest of the Electrical system in good shape Battery Terminals clean and Tight??
Just how did you check the coil ?? What readings did you get??
I had the cables on correctly. I double checked that when the F150 wouldn't start.
The 4Runner turns over, but it does not start. All the other electrical systems seem to work just fine.
I checked the coil primary and secondary resistance. Both are in spec. The igniter has 10.5V going to it. I checked the resistance on each pin on the igniter to the ground, and I had 6000 Ohms on one of the pins. I think it should be infinite or at least 10,000,000 Ohms. I had my wife turn over the starter as I held a test light from the primary outputs from the igniter to the coil. No signal going across there.
I have charged the battery, and that did not help it all.
Does anyone know how to test if I am getting a signal from the ecm to the igniter???
#5
Have you checked to see if you're getting spark?
There's probably a simpler way to do this, but I would hook up a timing gun and see if it lights up holding down the trigger while trying to start it. No light from timing gun with trigger depressed = no spark
Which fuse did you break? "Glow"?
NAPA has the big ones
There's probably a simpler way to do this, but I would hook up a timing gun and see if it lights up holding down the trigger while trying to start it. No light from timing gun with trigger depressed = no spark
Which fuse did you break? "Glow"?
NAPA has the big ones
#6
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have you had the battery checked just to make sure its good ? if charged the hell out a battery that I was sure was good only to find it was any good . I have a 86 chevy that has a fairly new battery in it and right now the truck is just clicking . I've gone through just about everything and think [ and hope ] its just the battery . my son had the same problem on a 98 chevy and it was the battery. just a thought .
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#8
I never did check the battery. It seems to be good, I will probably check it out just to be safe. I had the charger on the battery, and tried the jump start on it and it still wouldn't start.
I checked the spark, and I'm not getting anything. There is no signal getting to the coil.
I didn't get a spark that I saw when jump starting the truck, but it could have happened. I know that jump starting a vehicle can cause some feedback between the vehicles. This can cause different parts to fail, and some people refuse to even jump start a vehicle.
I tested the igniter and I think it is bad. So I will check that out this afternoon.
I checked the spark, and I'm not getting anything. There is no signal getting to the coil.
I didn't get a spark that I saw when jump starting the truck, but it could have happened. I know that jump starting a vehicle can cause some feedback between the vehicles. This can cause different parts to fail, and some people refuse to even jump start a vehicle.
I tested the igniter and I think it is bad. So I will check that out this afternoon.
#9
my 93 toyota 4runner wont turn over
hi all my runner v6 3.0 stick wont turn over it died completely when I ran out of fuel, put fuel in and it wont turn over, I have fuel coming to the fuel rail and spark im in desperate need of some solid feed back thanks in advance
#10
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Vocabulary: "won't turn over" usually means, well, just that. It does NOT mean "turns over fine, but just won't catch." Or "tries to run, but sputters out."
In your case, what happens when you turn the key? Do all the panel lights come on? Do you hear anything? (a clunk could be the solenoid, a click could be the COR) Where do you hear it?
In your case, what happens when you turn the key? Do all the panel lights come on? Do you hear anything? (a clunk could be the solenoid, a click could be the COR) Where do you hear it?
#11
when I turn the key all panel lights come on, when trying to turn the key over it just whines and a slight clunk can be heard and the sound seems to be coming from the passenger side.
#12
Sounds like
1) Weak or discharged battery, AND/OR
2) Bad connections. When we say connections check both positive connections.
Connections should have bare, shiny metal contacting bare shiny metal.
Take voltage readings when trying to start.
1) Weak or discharged battery, AND/OR
2) Bad connections. When we say connections check both positive connections.
Connections should have bare, shiny metal contacting bare shiny metal.
Take voltage readings when trying to start.
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The starter is on the passenger side, the whine could be the starter spinning.
The starter can't spin (without spinning the whole motor) if it engages properly, so the starter is getting some power but is not engaging.
Low battery could cause that (and is easy to check for). Right at the battery you should have around 12.6volts just sitting there. While cranking, it should drop, but usually not below 11.8 or so. If you get 10v or less when turning the key, the battery should be charged.
If the battery drops very little when you turn the key, you could have bad wiring or bad solenoid contacts that limit the current to the starter.
All as RAD4Runner says.
The starter can't spin (without spinning the whole motor) if it engages properly, so the starter is getting some power but is not engaging.
Low battery could cause that (and is easy to check for). Right at the battery you should have around 12.6volts just sitting there. While cranking, it should drop, but usually not below 11.8 or so. If you get 10v or less when turning the key, the battery should be charged.
If the battery drops very little when you turn the key, you could have bad wiring or bad solenoid contacts that limit the current to the starter.
All as RAD4Runner says.
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