bmcghie

Hi guys,

I just bought my first vehicle in August, and after riding in my buddy's '91 4x4 I knew I had to get something similar. So, I've got a '93 4runner, with the lovely 3.slow and a manual transmission.

Love it to death, btw.

Since then, I've done the brakes, replaced an alternator that died, and had a garage inform me that I should get a new radiator. It seems to be cracked in a few spots, and leaking very, very slowly.

I feel it's only fair to put work into my ride if I expect it to never, never let me down... so here goes.

I'm wondering exactly what parts I need to replace this rad by myself. AFAIK this is the original radiator in the truck (at 440k kms. Engine was replaced and is now at 209k km) so I'm going for a full replacement.

Looking at some other threads, I can see that I should probably be opting for a "heavy duty" rad, and some shiny new Toyota Red (or pink) coolant. I would like some input on what I should be getting, and maybe from where. So far, this is my parts list:
tstat, tstat gasket, rad, rad hoses upper and lower, coolant.

Should I bother getting a new rad cap? which one? What is the difference with this coolant sensor? Do I need it as well, or instead?

I tried to look around on other threads, but I get a little confused about tranny cooling. Is this just for the automatics, or should/can I use it as well? Do those brands/models of parts look good to anybody?

I've just started wrenching, but I have an excellent mechanic at work to help me out a bit. Regardless, I bow to all your expertise, and thanks for taking the time to help me out!

PS LOVE the "you know you drive a yota when..." thread. It's only been several months, but I can relate.

brad11140

I replaced my radiator not to long ago and it was extremly easy. Mine didnt have one, but you will have to unbolt the shroud and get it out of the way. After that there are 4 bolts that hold the radiator on to the vehicle. Drain it, undo the coolant lines and pull those 4 screws. Drop in the new one.

bmcghie

It doesn't look too complicated. I downloaded a manual recommended in another thread, and it explains HOW... I'm more concerned with ordering the right parts. I'm also wondering which tstat I need, or if there is more than the one on the bottom front of my engine.

Datsayota

There is a considerable difference is quality when it comes to the Toyota OE radiator cap and thermostat. For these parts I highly recommend going OE. And yes there is only one thermostat, located at the lower outlet.
The hardest part of this fairly easy job is removing the lower portion of the fan shroud. There are two metal clips that hold it in place, they pop off pretty easy if you can reach in and lift the clip from the inside as opposed to the outside. Have fun!

bmcghie

Thanks, Datsayota! I think I actually may be missing my secondary fan shroud... I have two clips in my glove box, but no plastic arc... something else to order it seems.

Looking at pictures of others doing timing belts and water pumps (not for me just yet!) it seems I do need the tstat with a coil spring in it... not that other plug thingy.

pruney81

Get an all metal radiator from radiatorbarn.com. Don't get the plastic tank/aluminum ones they are terrible. I went through 2 of those in 4 months due to leaks until I got my new one from radiatorbarn a week ago. The radiator won't come with a cap so you might as well buy a new one, and replace the hoses while you're at it.

TNRabbit

I got a CSF radiator about a year ago from Radiatorbarn; here's a thread:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...d-pics-193478/

It has the transmission cooler, too.

Tofer

to answer your question about tranny cooling, yes, that is only for the autos.. manual trannys dont have any atf to cool.

Cyberman

You don't need to remove the upper shroud from the radiator first. Actually, it'll get hung up in the fan. I just replaced my rad ysterday, along with a new thermostat and lower hose. Be prepared to catch the coolant when you pull the thermostat housing off.

Something that isn't entirely required would be to do a pressure test of the system, after you hook everything back up. I had a lovely leak at the upper timing idler, plus a leaky rad around the cap. I was able to borrow a coolant pressure tester from a mechanic friend of mine. The pressure test saved me a lot of time trying to figure out where the leak on the engine was. After I put it all back together, I filled it up, let the engine get to temperature, then checked again. The only leak I have now is at the upper hose, where I used the original hose and clamp.

wii_tarded

Might be a good idea to flush the block since you're opening the system.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

hey, another 93 with a 5speed!! sweet....

I put a all metal one in my 93 runner, no complaints/ recommend it but don't remember the brand! that's a super easy project, just make sure to use Toyota long life 'pink' coolant in there and you'll be fine. I went from changing my own oil a few years ago, now, thanks to yotatech, I'm doing my own timing belt this week and have massive plans for my runner. Use this site for any help you need.

My radiator blew up two summers ago on the highway in traffic soooo.... new all metal radiator.

The coolant sensor is what tells your ECU that the engine is warmed up and part of the process that puts you into 'closed loop' fuel mode which uses the O2 sensor (and turns your mpg's from about 7 up to 15mpg!). you should be able to test the resistance on it in some water, but worth replacing if it's a '93 and you're in there/draining coolant but not necessary. If not, it should be fine, it won't kill your engine. I think I paid $23 for mine?

I would agree with wii-tarded on the flush; I flush with sodium citrate (prestone super flush) and rinse 3-4 times with dH2O before I re-fill. LOTS of scales and gunk/particles usually come out, these are no bueno for your engine.

the radiator, fan, timing belt covers, CS pulley is currently sitting out of my taco, waiting on a timing belt and CS pulley.... my taco still has the stock radiator, it's a press-n-fit aluminum/plastic one but it's fine for now....

bmcghie

Thanks for the input guys. Unfortunately, it's a little trickier to get many parts shipped up to Canada for reasonable rates. However, RockAuto seems to have a pretty decent selection, and decent rates. I am going to check around town today and compare prices.

Thanks for the heads up on the block. I noticed in the manual there is another drain cock on the block... and since my current fluid is green, and I'm going red... I figured I really should flush that as well. What is the likelyhood of me introducing air pockets to the system when I flush it? Can I just drain it all, run water through it, and then fill 'er up with the red stuff? Or do I need a special kit to aid with bleeding?

It looks like I'll probably go with a Nissens brass/copper unit from the UK, unless I can find one of the heavy duty CSF around locally.

Cheers.

MudHippy

Very important. If you don't heed this advice you will break the shroud trying to get it out. It DOES NOT come off untill the radiator is removed from the engine bay. NO WAY, NO HOW!

On the radiator cap subject, all caps are the same. There's no difference in the design of Toyota's caps vs. others. If you compare them side by side with the replacements you'll find from a parts store(NAPA, Autozone, etc.)they have no significant features to set them apart. The only difference I found was the yellow sticker on the top of the Toyota cap. Which serves no purpose in regards to how the cap functions. I've been running the generic one I bought at NAPA for around 16,000 miles with no troubles from it. Works fine.

But t-stats are another story. Not that the other brands/types that are available won't/don't work. They do differ in design, however, from the stock t-stats manufactured by Kuzeh. I haven't seen an aftermarket t-stat that could actually measure up to the stock t-stats. Literally, the opening in the parts store replacement I bought from NAPA was smaller than the stock t-stat. Smaller hole equals less ability to flow(not havin' it). It didn't have the jiggle valve like the stock ones do either. That's a crucial feature which aids in engine warm-up by allowing a small amount of coolant flow through the block even when the t-stat is fully closed, causing a stirring effect which actually brings the coolant in the block up to temp more evenly and quickly. The Kuzeh is also made from more expensive materials, all brass parts not cheaper stainless steel. Needless to say I did not install the NAPA t-stat in my engine. It sits on the shelf in case of an absolute emergency, where it might be installed temporarily if needed. And since the stock t-stat wasn't malfunctioning, it's still in my engine(and has 230k miles on it too). I only purchased the new one thinking I'd replace it since it was so old and might eventually fail. I still have it on my list of parts to replace, it's just been shuffled down to the bottom of the list though. And will only be replaced by another one made by Kuzeh and specifically designed for the 3VZE(not a parts store generic that will fit dozens of different engines).

Bleeding the system couldn't be easier. Just fill it with coolant and run it with the cap off 'till hot, topping off the coolant in the radiator as needed during the process. Put the cap back on when the upper radiator hose is hot to the touch, and then make sure the overflow reservior is full. Any air left in the system will eventually burp it's way out and be replaced by what's in that reservior. Which will lower the level of coolant in it, so don't suspect a leak right away. Just top it off and keep checking that it stays at the full mark when the engine's hot. I've never ran into any troubles using this method with my 3VZE.

bmcghie

Awesome guys! While looking around, it did seem the Kuzeh tstats were much pricier. Wikipedia told me they were the OEM... now to find one in Vancouver BC.

aa1911, thanks for the heads up with the flushing. Sounds pretty straightforward.

Mudhippy, thanks for the tip on the shroud. I would have been trying to take it off beforehand... :s Good to know the system bleeds itself as well. I'm off hunting for parts now!

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

flushing is necessary in my opinion, shops don't all do it but they should, especially since you're changing anti-freeze. It takes me about 3 hours to do mine start to finish, initial drain and then 4 cycles of - fill/run for 15 min/ 30min cooldown/drain - system capacity is like 10 qts but it will only take about 5 each time fyi. (unless you can get to the engine draincocks which I never bother with, so a portion of the fluid doesn't come out each time, hence why flushing is ideal) there was a thread on here about letting the block cool befor adding liquid because of the potential for damage to the block from rapid cooling of the hot engine; I never had a problem but would recommend allowing a good cooling phase each time to be safe. As far as the air bubbles, I've never had a problem, I just run the engine at about 2000 rpm for about 10-15min the last time before I road test it (drive to work) and never had any issues. You will have to check it every day for a bit to top off a small amount maybe but after an hour of driving there shouldn't be any air pockets left I don't think, correct me if I'm wrong here. I check coolant at least weekly in my 4runner after my stock radiator grenaded (due to a slooooow coolant leak).

the solution to pollution is dilution! Oh, get ready for a price shock when you visit the Toyota parts counter and pick up a jug or two of coolant, it's like $20/gal ! worth it though... I will be buying some here shortly after I finish my timing belt/crankshaft pulley fix, saved the old stuff as it's only about 4 months used and it's clean but, it's not THAT expensive.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

just spent 30 minutes straightening all the mashed fins on my radiator (on the taco) while it's out... fun.

bmcghie

Well, I get paid on friday, so then the order will get placed methinks. Looks like RockAuto is the way to go for everything besides fluids. Also, I see thermostats made by Stant, Gates, and Beck/Arnely also advertising the jiggle valve built in... anyone used these brands before? I have yet to find a Kuzeh that will ship to Vancouver BC.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

I'm buying this one for my truck hopefully at Toyota unless they want to charge a ton of $$$...

http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/200...ma/thermostat/

here's a Kuzeh for the veezy:

http://www.drivewire.com/includes/se...BkaWFtZXRlcg==

and the main page it's on:

http://www.drivewire.com/search/?PN=...ND(universal:0)

awesome prices, this is just the first site I looked at, might be others to be had cheaper...

I don't know what their shipping policies are but I imagine you can get it shipped. Worst case scenario, get one of us here in the states to buy one and mail it to you personally if time is not a huge factor.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

hey, need any intake parts? trying to get rid of my old intake and silencer stuff, did the ISR mod and don't want this stuff in the garage taking up space. thought i'd throw this in there in the off chance you need it...



good luck with the radiator, etc.., hope you find your parts!

bmcghie

It looks like Amazon.com will ship me a CSF all-metal rad for a decent price. Drivewire won't ship to Canada... so I still don't know where I'll find a Kuzeh tstat. I may end up shipping it to my buddy in Spokane, and have an excuse to go visit him.

I'm unsure if I need any parts. Somebody mentioned my VAFM might be messed, as it is taped down w/ electrical tape. Any reason why somebody would tamper with that? Oh, and you know I'm also looking for a quiet exhaust system yeah? Just the muffler and tailpipe.