darkstrykr

Hi,
Well I've owned my pickup for about 2 years now and its ran beautifully. She got 197,000 miles and I've never had any issues.

The other day I got in, started her up, and went down the road. After about 10 minutes it started sputtering and bogging down for the whole drive. I managed to get it home and did some tests. I start the truck and it idles just fine, but when I try to drive it, it sputters constantly bogs down constantly until I get to about 3,000 rpms and higher, then she runs fine for the most part.

Now here's the strange part, when I'm parked and letting it idle everything's fine until I turn on the headlights, or step on the brake, or turn on the heater to full blast, or hit my hazard lights. It bogs down once if I turn on one of these but if I turn my lights on and the heater, or lights and step on the brake it bogs down bad. When I turn everything on it will actually die.

I took it to Pep Boys and they tested my alternator and battery and they both checked out perfect. My fuel pump and filter are both brand new, just changed them both recently after I started getting this problem and it didn't help. I then took it to a mechanic and got a diagnostic. It came back with 2 codes: 53 & 71 which is knock sensor and egr. The mechanic showed me that my knock sensor actually isn't even there, a plug just dangling right where is should be. I removed my egr vacuum filter and did some serious cleaning out of it and that didn't seem to help.

I've ordered the knock sensor and it's coming in 1-2 days and afterwords I might have to buy a new egr valve. It's just I'm not too sure that that's what's causing my problem. If anyone has any ideas that could help I would greatly appreciate it. Hope you guys can figure it out because it's got me stumped.

Thanks!

yotaman85

check this out. it might help. and its pretty easy and cheap.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...er+supply+wire

yayfortrees

Unfortunately, I don't see the absence of a knock sensor causing something like this, plus it has ran fine for 2 years without it.

I would look at all of your grounds, also check to see if you have a ground connected to the block. Also check the alternator connections / wiring, and battery connections / wiring. If your grounds are good, it sounds like a corroded wire that isn't allowing enough current to pass through. This would likely be between the battery and fuse block.

Hope this points you in the right direction.

Good luck, and welcome to YT!

darkstrykr

Thanks guys, I'll check that out tomorrow. Do you think that the wiring could be it, even though the alternator and battery checked out good on the test? The ground to the block seems good...although the positive connector is kinda sketchy, it's been like that since I got it. The connections are tight. Anyways I'll check it out, thanks for the welcome! Hope to do some quality reading on here.

limon32

Even if the battery connections are tight, if they are dirty or corroded they won't do much good. First step for ANY electrical problems (which I think your having) should be clean and re-tighten the battery terminal connectinos.

I would certainly recommend checking out the supply wire to the fuse box which I think another poster gave you a link for. And like the other guy said, check your chasis grounds.

CHOPER

I have a 92 toyota 2wd. The same thing happens with my yota. Whenever i turn on the hazard lights or take the hand brake off or just shift it into first the engine boggs untill it shuts off the truck wont even go 10 feet foward it has a new fuel filter new battery new sprk plgs wires distributor cap n rotor the altenator is perfectly fine it all started one time when i down shifted the gear and the engine shut off and would not turn bak on for 20 min i have no idea what casing this problem if anyone has any idea what it could possibly be please let me know. My

yayfortrees

Assuming they did the right tests (load test, etc.) they ruled out the alternator and battery, which leaves wiring or other components. I can't think of any other components that could cause this, so my bet is on the wiring. Especially that positive cable. If it looks questionable, that's the starting point.

darkstrykr

Well, I bought a 4 gauge wire and new post clamp and installed it today. Replaced the wire that ran from the battery to the fuse box. After hooking everything back up (took extra care to do it all right) still having the same problem. And now my headlights, hazard lights, door chime and radio don't work. Heater, blinkers, tail & parking lights, brake lights and dash lights all still work fine. Gonna change all my fuses tomorrow.

I don't get it, I ran the new line which the old one was pretty bad and I'm still getting the same problem. Anyone got any other ideas?

mattaway

At first it sounded like it could be your igniter, but I'm not sure after hearing about the lights/heater/etc. Still could be that though, try testing it.

I'd check some grounds too. Could of had a ground rot out on you.

darkstrykr

How would I go about testing my igniter? Also there is a ground wire (not sure to what) on the right side of the engine under the distributor that's connected to my block and runs down, it looks pretty bad. How many grounds are there and what should I buy to replace them all? Thanks.

Edit: One more thing, I have a wire that's right next to the fuse block attached to the body on the side, very thin wire that I found that isn't connected to anything. The wires all frayed. Any idea what that goes to?

yayfortrees

I wouldn't worry about your ignitor right now. If you have good spark, there's no reason to.

The wire you speak of next to the fuse block is probably a body ground. I could tell you for sure if you include a picture. If it is, it should connect directly to the negative side of the battery. I actually just replaced mine today.

I've seen multiple grounds on these trucks, but really, you only need two (coming from your battery), as long as they are in good condition. You should have the main ground connected to your motor block. Then the body is grounded as well. Certain components can have a wire to ground also, but that is dealt with on an individual basis.

I don't remember what the other wire you speak of is. If it was daylight, I would go and check. It *might* be a wire to ground from the ignitor, but I really don't remember.

I would start by taking care of that body ground, and go from there. Just replace that entire wire, rather than splicing it. If you have to get a new negative terminal, eye connector, and wire, it's still a really cheap fix. Get the good crimp-on connector and tool. It shouldn't just mash down flat or oval, it should look like this before crimping: U and like this after crimping: m These hold much better, and allow more surface area to conduct.

darkstrykr

thanks yft, gonna connect that ground tomorrow...watch that will solve all my problems heheh, I'll keep you guys updated. Step by step I know I'm getting closer to fixing it.

CHOPER

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM BUT TODAY I CHECKED THE GROUND CABLE THAT IS LOCATED RIT ABOVE THE PLATE DAT HOLDS THE ALTENATOR IN PLACE IT WAS COMPLETLY CORRODED IT FOLLOWED THE WIRE N NOTICED IT WAS BURND REALLY BAD ON ITS WAY UP TO THE IGNITOR. ITS A SMALL WIRE DAT GOES TO THE IGNITOR AS WELL AS TO THE SMALL BLACK BOX ON THE INSIDE OF THE DRIVER SIDE FENDER.I REPLACED THE ENTIRE CABLE WITH A 10G WIRE THE THIKER WIRE SHOULD WORK BETTER AT THE END IT STILL BOGGED WHEN I TURNED IT ON AGAIN BUT I FIGURED I WOULD ALSO CLEAN THE THROTTLE BODY AND AS I CLEANED IT LITTLE BY LITTLE THE PROBLEM WENT AWAY NOW ITS NOT BOGING WEN I TURN ON THE HAZARD LIGHTS OR ANYTHING OF THE OLD SIMPTOMS IM GUESSING THAT BOTH THINGS HELPED U MIGHT WANT TO TRY AS WELL IM SURE ITS THE CABLE THATS GROUNDED TO UR ENGINE THAT GOES TO THE IGNITOR IF U HAVE TROUBLE FINDING WERE IT GOES IT GOES WITH THE 3 CABLES THAT COME FROM UR ALTENATOR TO UR IGNITOR GOOD LUCK FIXING UR PROBLEM MY YOTA IS RUNNING GREAT NOW I WILL CONTINUE TO KEEP N EYE ON IT BUT IM SURE THE PROBLEM IS SOLVED.

yayfortrees

Wow, please turn caps off and use punctuation and paragraphs. That was hard to read.

CHOPER

Man about the punctuation it was 3 am and i was tired. I just wanted to help out with the problem the other guy was having aswell. Is this better for u 2 understand?

yayfortrees

LOL!!! I understand, I've made those 3 AM postings as well. That is so much better.

Peace!

darkstrykr

Just thought I'd update everyone, got my truck fixed today, turned out that wire that was right next to my fuse box running to nothing, should have been attached to my negative on my battery... After all that my problem is solved, I feel like an idiot but at least it's fixed and I wanted to share with anyone else with this problem so they can avoid a sticky situation. Oh well, I got a much needed tune up out of it, and parts that needed fixing. My truck is running flawless, the 4 gauge wire upgrade did wonders. Thanks to everyone for the help and keep up the good work. T4L

yayfortrees

Awesome! I'm stoked to hear you have your ride back. AND, I'm sure it is better than ever with the upgraded supply wire plus other new parts.