wwjr

So...recently solved a bad surging issue by discovering a completely blocked coolant line going into the IACV, but now I am still overheating and have developed a loud rattling noise. The thermostat is good, (temporarily removed) but I see no flow or water movement in the radiator when warm, so either something is clogged or the water pump is bad. Radiator is probably a mess, but we flushed the block and changed fluid only several months ago. It got dirty again, but I was holding off on re-changing until I replaced the radiator. HOWEVER...the engine now makes a loud noise (rattle/tap?) which sounds pretty scary and is my first concern. I would wish that this might be a water pump gone bad, but I fear it may be a broken timing chain guide. Any educated advice or opinions are welcome. Thanks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2hb...ature=youtu.be

wwjr

by the way...when I first start the engine, and it is cold, the tap is definitely not as noticeable. Once it runs for a bit though...it gets louder.

Shady Cadence

Grab the fan and try to move it side to side...does it wobble?

wwjr

nope. the fan is good.

Shady Cadence

More the shaft it's bolted to than the fan itself. Start it and watch the pulley. Does it spin true, or bounce around?

Odin

Your video is set to private.

Have you tried dropping the belt and turning the water pump by hand to see if there's resistance or if it's smooth or not?

wwjr

Shady-I'll re-check the fan situation again tomorrow, but it feels tight, and makes about 1 revolution when spun, no play, and a very normal looking unit. I've checked it over the past few months since overheating was an issue.


Odin-try the video again, and no, I haven't tried turning the pump by hand yet, but this noise isn't a "whir" or "grinding" sound like they usually make. It is a bigtime tap/rattle. Probably gonna have to have someone peak under the cover and see if the timing chain tensioner is still in one piece.

This truck only has 60k original miles but it has suddenly become a problem with several issue, from master cylinder, to IACV valve, to radiator, and now this

Shady Cadence

Does the heat work good?

Odin

Video works, that is a knock I'm not familiar with. I haven't heard a broken timing chain guide in person so I'm hesitant to say. I think it's distinctive enough that someone should be able to identify it though. If you have a HarborFreight near you can get an mechanics stethoscope for about $5 to help pinpoint where it's originating from.

I'd pull that radiator and have a shop flush it. It must have had a high percentage of water in the antifreeze for that much rust to be present. Maybe someone was running the green stuff with tap water. Either that or it just went way way to long before a flush.

Disconnect the heater core and give it a good backwards flush before you reinstall the flushed radiator.

Remove the plug in the block that helps drain/flush the block. Refill with Toyota Red and DISTILLED water.

wwjr

Shady- heat works.

Odin- gonna have radiator work done early next week. Probably get a new one and have the system flushed. Where can I get the "red"? The previous was indeed green with tap water and was my fault. Lots of rust still inside, so system needs a good cleaning at least.

The noise scares me though. Don't feel comfortable driving it.

Odin

It doesn't sound good that's for sure. I wouldn't drive it until you take the valve cover off to see if the timing chain guide is broke or not, it's a definite possibility. At only 60,000 miles you wouldn't think it would be broke, but the stock part is plastic...

There's a vid on YouTube that shows a partially broken guide on a 22re by WheeliePete you can watch that shows what to look for when the valve cover is off.

My local CarQuest carries the Toyota Red, every Toyota dealer should carry it. Just make sure you get the stuff you need to add water to. The newer cars take a different Toyota formula that comes premixed.

wwjr

I've seen that video. Not wanting to have to spend that kind of cash, so hoping it is less intrusive of an issue, but...no choice, I guess. I'll get a shop to pull the cover hopefully soon. This truck has been great since I bought it in 92, but lots of problems this year. Bummer.

wwjr

the problem was a broken timing chain guide. these things definitely have an issue. currently being replaced.

Odin

As mentioned make sure they replace the drivers side with an aftermarket metal guide or you'll have to worry about it breaking again.

When I purchased mine the PO told me the timing chain had been replaced 10,000 miles ago. -IF- the odometer is correct that means it failed at about 145,000 miles. When I took the valve cover off to fix the rear leak and adjust the valves I could see the chain was tight and both timing guides were intact, but they are plastic
Meaning it'll happen again.

I could also see the evidence of the previous plastic guide failure by the grind/rub marks the timing chain left behind in the aluminum.

wwjr

˟˟˟˟ definitely does happen, but I mentioned it to him ahead of time regarding the plastic vs. metal. The kit was $100., and it is already installed, so all I can do is hope and trust, I guess. The engine isn't back together yet, but I would hate to have to order new guides and wait longer. My question is this...if they are so faulty, why do kits still contain them and why did Toyota switch to them? I bought my truck new is 92, so I got 23 years out of the first ones, but only 60k. at this point, I am ready to give up worrying and fighting to make people be honest. I will definitely ask about that again though. I wish I had time to be my own mechanic, doctor, reverend, and all other things...but I don't. I'm 63, so I may not outlive whatever he put in! I am glad I didn't drive this thing much after the noise.

wwjr

Odin...any idea the amount of coolant the system holds? I see they sell the pre-mixed red per gallon...and says 1 per vehicle.

Odin

You could always ask what kit was installed or ask to see the packaging if it hasn't made it to the dumpster yet. At your age you definitely see what is happening to honestly and integrity.

Why do some kits still come with plastic... My one and only guess is $$$.

You definitely saved your bacon by not driving it much after the noise!

If you haven't had to replace the head gasket yet keep that in the back of your mind because it's also pretty common for these engines, especially if they've been run hot. The factory thermostat is 192 degrees, you might want to consider installing a 180 to help with that. Most people think the ECU can make adjustments and function correctly with it, some think not.. I'm not sold either way. The heater will definitely blow a little colder if that's important to you.

wwjr

I do already have a 180 thermostat. I live in Fla, so heater isn't an issue often. (Thank God!)

I should mention, the guy doing my work is honest. Sometimes people forget though. He sent me a pic of the kit installed and it looks metal to me, but I can't be sure, so I will check. We are replacing the water pump even though the old one was good...just worn.

bswarm

The chain guide failure isn't unique to Toyotas. The early Ecotech engines used in Saturns and other GM vehicles were having the same problem. It's low (but still within normal) oil pressure at idle that doesn't keep the chain tensioner tight enough against the chain that causes premature wear on the guides. Using a premium and a bit thicker oil will keep the oil pressure up at idle. I use 20W50 in my 22RE and 10W30 instead of the recommended 5W30 in the Saturns. If you live in a very cold climate 20W50 will be too thick, but here in Southern Cali it's no problems.

wwjr

interesting tip. thanks!