Turtl3

Hi all,
Im hoping the fix for this will be a simple idle contol switch that needs cleaning/replacing, or something along those lines.

The car runs fine, but it stalls extremely easily (im not just a terrible driver either) basically there is not real feeling of a 'grip point' to the clutch where u know that u need to apply more throttle. The clutch itself is fine, it doesnt slip or anything. But when taking off in first or reverse, the car will start moving and then suddenly just stall, with no sense of feeling the engine struggle under load, and it doesnt matter how slowly the clutch pedal is released.

Its driveable but it means i need to rev it to the point where i sound(and feel) like a terrible driver because i have to ride the clutch slightly with higher than normal revs to prevent it from stalling....god forbid there be a speed bump or slight incline to make it 10x worse.

Is there some sort of switch on the clutch pedal that is supposed to help raise the rpm slightly when it senses the clutch is being released? Its just strange how it stalls so easily, it doesnt load up or struggle and jump suddenly when it stalls, its like the key has been switched off. Could a slightly leaking slave cylinder be causing the clutch to release faster than the pedal action should be allowing it to and make it stall?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Having had to replace my Key Board and wipe the coffee off the monitor

There is no magic switch,

How long have you had this vehicle ?? First Manual ??

Are you needing to keep filling up the fluid in the Clutch Master Cylinder??

Do you have to fight the shifter to get it in gear ???

Then you might have a hydraulic issue!!!

Turtl3

No, no and no, definately not my first manual. And the magical switch is no laughing matter because alot of newer manuals have them, my wifes mitsubishi is one of them, they just raise the rpm by 200-300rpm as soon as the clutch starts releasing from the floor. Only had the car a week, fluid hasnt dropped yet, but i did notice a weap around the slave when doing the exhaust today. Dont need to fight it to select gears either

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The switch could very well be on something newer but why?? Like ABS brakes ??

You have a 92 there is no switch.Maybe have one installed if it helps your clutch skills

only a week !!!

Turtl3

buggered if i know why, it was just a simple question and a possibility. And now i know they dont have one.

regardless of how long ive had the car doesnt mean theres not something wrong with it. Ive driven numerous manuals before and while they all vary with how the behave...theres just something not right with the 4runner.

so unless uve got some usefull suggestions or possibilities. Ur input isnt needed here

MudHippy

Oh calm down. He's just kidding with you. It's probably my fault you're getting all edgy. I apologize...again. Let's just all kiss and make up and be friends again. I know I've got issues. And I'm constantly working to improve. I'm much better than I used to be. If you had any idea how many bans I've got under my belt, and/or how long it's been since the last one, it'd be plain to see. But since you don't, just take my word for it. Because that's all yer gitten!


Now on the topic. No. No switch. Should be just as easy as any other clutch to operate. More or less. Maybe a little harder. But not much. If you've got the idle set to specs, 800 ± 50 RPM, you shouldn't be able to kill it on flat ground by letting the clutch out. With stock gears and 33s or smaller anyway. Pretty close though depending on how high the gearing is and how tall the tires are. Generally speaking it might dip down to 200 RPM, worst case scenario. But if your engine's running good that shouldn't be enough to stall it. I don't know about a leaky slave cylinder making a difference. It's never made a difference with either of mine.

Have you tried adjusting the pedal?

Turtl3

C, now this is the problem... the clutch feels fine, it doesnt slip and i dont need to fight the gears. if anything it might be engaging a little too far off the floor for my liking. Its just got me stumped that the engine doesnt struggle under load before it stalls its just as if the key has been switched off. Ive got 31s on atm and standard 4.3 gearing, i will double check the idle but i think it sits right around 800 when warm. I will adjust the pedal and see what happens. Maybe im just used to alot more power from v8s and torque from diesels lol...its either that or the 3vz is gutless at idle (but i dont think thats the case here).

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I have two 3.4 5 speed vehicles one I drive almost every day the other as needed .

When I switch vehicles I stall the one not driven till I get used to driving it again.

Wait my input is not wanted sorry!!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

After a week you would have ruled out a stuck brake causing the drag

Your eyes would be watering .

The same with a bad bearing it would be making some noise but one never knows

Just trying to think what might be causing such a load the engine stalls

Electrical problem shutting down the ECU because of low voltage

I will say strange things have happened

I know being used to the 7.3 I have found myself trying to pull out in 2nd gear from Muscle Memory when the other guy drives

Turtl3

Bearings and brakes are good, ive had it off the floor and spun them all fairly freely. It doesnt feel like there is any excessive load which is the strange thing. Its like it has absolutely no bottom end power. Ill have a play around with it this arvo. Last time i drove it i could rev it to 1500rpm and release the clutch slowly and it would still want to stall trying to get over a speed bump. I dont think its a low voltage issue either. Its got a brand new alternator

RJR

Lack of low-end torque sounds like possibly a valve problem. Could be valve timing or just leaky ones. I'd do a compression test and see what shows up.

Turtl3

the heads and head gaskets were done 15000ks ago, so unless they buggered something up, i cant see that being the problem

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

We pretty much ruled out anything but lack of practice ??

It is always possible someone put wicked high gears in??

One never knows with these vehicles .

How does it pull out in low range ??

87hoerunner

Check motor mounts and transmission mounts broken mount could cause similar issues

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

any more progress with this problem ??

I am sure most of us would love to know how it plays out !!

Turtl3

I honestly havnt been anywhere near my car this week just gone. I fitted a new gear shift knob to it and that was it. My wife did her back in, so ive been on baby holding duties...which makes tinkering with the car very challenging . I like the idea of a broken mount, it never occured to me, but i can c how that would work. I will check it out thisafternoon if the weather holds off, providing we get home early enough from all the mothers day festivities.

I though i had replied to the gearing possibility earlier, but i obviously didnt lol. its got factory gearing, 4.3. U may well be right, and it could just be a practise thing...but that would be a first for me (other than learning how to drive initially). There is a first for everything so we will c how it plays out. I havent forgotten about ya's...i will report back.

Ill probably end up convincing myself its just the 3Loser v6 thats the problem. Best fix will be a 5vz conversion with the trd s/c lol. Or ill go down the path of putting an L36 in there like i did with my ln65...or maybe even an L67 this time

Charchee

I might explore the possibility that your engine may have something to do with your stalling situation. I dealt with a similar issue last year when I picked up an 89 4Runner 3VZE for a couple hundred bucks for a project. The truck cranked up and idled smooth as silk after I fixed a couple minor things under the hood. The RPM was in spec and I could feel no loss of power throughout the RPM range while in neutral. However, it was an absolute nightmare to drive due to drastic power loss "stalling" when I tried to take off. How long you've had the truck is a relevant question because without having driven the vehicle while it was performing well, you might not be able to feel a loss of engine power, if you follow what I'm saying. Mine turned out to have two completely failed injectors and one about 95% gone. Since I had never owned a 3VZE and hadn't driven a manual Toyota in years at that point, I had no idea how much power the truck had lost. After replacing the injectors, mine takes off nice and smooth in both directions.

As for the 3VZE being a turd at low RPM, I've got a 2002 with the 5VZE in it parked right beside the 89 and while the 3.4 is superior in almost every way, I really feel like the 3.0 has more low end torque. Just my opinion.

Hope you get your bug worked out. Let me know if I can help.

Turtl3

**double post**

Turtl3

Any help is good help! What uve sed is extremely interesting. I wonder how it was still able to idle and drive smoothly with 2 (almost 3) completely dead injectors? Were they still injecting, but not injecting the correct amount? Or were they not atomising properly?

I might have to pull the injectors and have a look...with the heads being done recently by the p/o, i would think that the injectors would have been inspected by the workshop that did the work...but inspecting and testing are 2 completely different things. And nothing can be taken for granted with newly acquired 2nd hand vehicles, and everything the previous owner says must be taken with a pinch of salt. (But in this case there is a receipt for the head work)

Charchee

My three bad injectors were shot. After doing a lot of advanced level testing on the engine, I went back to the basics. I started the truck and let it idle in N while I pulled plug wires off one at a time while listening for a change in RPM. My RPM dropped a couple hundred when I pulled off each of the three good cylinders' plug wires. The three bad ones did not affect the rpm pf the engine at all. Best I can guess is someone adjusted the idle speed screw on the throttle body to compensate for the weak idle caused by the failed injectors, making the engine seem to idle normally. It really doesn't take a lot of HP to idle the engine so it was a little hard to pinpoint the problem. Like you said, "nothing can be taken for granted with newly acquired 2nd hand vehicles." A lot of times what complicates repairs of these vehicles is not the root cause, but the adjustments that some idiot made while trying to fix it.

One more thing that I found interesting once if figured out my problem was a correlation between the dead injectors and the compression test readings I got on those cylinders in a previous test. I did the compression test just to get an idea of the general health of the engine. I not only found that I had strong compression on all six, but I actually had high compression on three cylinders. Wouldn't you know that they were the same three with bad injectors. I have theories on how this could have happened but I won't get into that.

Anyway, you might try the plug wire pull off test since it only takes a few minutes but be careful. You can get shocked. Wont hurt you but will make you say bad words.