92 3.0 oil leak
07-18-2013, 06:03 AM
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92 3.0 oil leak
[/IMG]Hey. First post here. I'm currently 1700 miles from home and have developed a serious leak coming from my drivers side looks just above my pan. Here are some pictures this is my first yota all my other toys and daily drivers have had small block Chevys in them so I'm new with all this fancy stuff. I don't even know if I uploaded images right. But i believe it's coming from the metal cylinder about a foot behind the stock oil filter location. Is this going to be something I can fix myself with my toolbox or is it something I will need to pay someone to do. I'm In a tight situation for money and time thank you very much
07-18-2013, 08:43 AM
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Best I can tell that is the oil cooler looking at the pic on my phone. It has a couple of coolant hoses attached to it right?
There are a couple of o-rings in the oil cooler that can go bad.
Your first post is blank when I view it with the Yotatech Apple app.
There are a couple of o-rings in the oil cooler that can go bad.
Your first post is blank when I view it with the Yotatech Apple app.
Last edited by rworegon; 07-18-2013 at 08:47 AM.
07-19-2013, 11:00 AM
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Check it out -
That's the oil cooler, I know because I fixed a leak on mine about three weeks ago, also a 1992 3.0. After an oil change it would leak really bad for about a week and then slow down to a drip. Eventually I started just replacing the filter and adding a quart about every month or so.
You mentioned an aftermarket piece you have, and a conversion, but here is how to fix it cheap if you decide to go this route and have the time and resources.
Toyota part #'s:
90301-61003 - Large o-ring for the back
15785-35010 - small gasket for the back
90210-22001 - washer seal for the large bolt
I got all of these for about $10.00
Step 1 - Remove the heat shield. Three 12mm bolts (maybe 14mm, can't remember):
Step 2 - Remove the 24mm bolt and the 14mm bolt on the cooler bracket (not pictured, it's down and to the left of the cooler in this pic). *NOTE* My 24mm bolt was STUCK man, I shattered a 20" socket extension trying to remove it from the wheel well, even after spraying the bolt for two days with In-Force. I ended up getting it with a 12" crescent from down below. The torque on the 24mm bolt is 43 ft-lbs.
Step 3 - *NOTE* I was unable to remove the hoses from the cooler, they were stuck hard and I didn't have a very good angle to try to remove them without tearing. However, I was able to do this job without removing the cooler from the car, and this also saves you the trouble of having to drain the coolant / get coolant all over your face.
The red circle is the cooler from below, the blue circle is the smaller gasket, and above that you can see the o-ring held in place by the metal tabs. Remove them with a pic and replace. The washer seal goes on the bolt, make sure to remove the old one (I mention this only because they kind of look like one part, just pry them apart with a small screwdriver).
I know you mentioned that your location and circumstances might determine what you have to do here, and that you already had an aftermarket cooler. I am just writing this to give you some details on one way to tackle this if you are able to do so. It was cheap and easy and it fixed a leak I had for a long time.
As a final note, this procedure is for the 4WD, I think the 2WD is a bit different. Good luck.
J
That's the oil cooler, I know because I fixed a leak on mine about three weeks ago, also a 1992 3.0. After an oil change it would leak really bad for about a week and then slow down to a drip. Eventually I started just replacing the filter and adding a quart about every month or so.
You mentioned an aftermarket piece you have, and a conversion, but here is how to fix it cheap if you decide to go this route and have the time and resources.
Toyota part #'s:
90301-61003 - Large o-ring for the back
15785-35010 - small gasket for the back
90210-22001 - washer seal for the large bolt
I got all of these for about $10.00
Step 1 - Remove the heat shield. Three 12mm bolts (maybe 14mm, can't remember):
Step 2 - Remove the 24mm bolt and the 14mm bolt on the cooler bracket (not pictured, it's down and to the left of the cooler in this pic). *NOTE* My 24mm bolt was STUCK man, I shattered a 20" socket extension trying to remove it from the wheel well, even after spraying the bolt for two days with In-Force. I ended up getting it with a 12" crescent from down below. The torque on the 24mm bolt is 43 ft-lbs.
Step 3 - *NOTE* I was unable to remove the hoses from the cooler, they were stuck hard and I didn't have a very good angle to try to remove them without tearing. However, I was able to do this job without removing the cooler from the car, and this also saves you the trouble of having to drain the coolant / get coolant all over your face.
The red circle is the cooler from below, the blue circle is the smaller gasket, and above that you can see the o-ring held in place by the metal tabs. Remove them with a pic and replace. The washer seal goes on the bolt, make sure to remove the old one (I mention this only because they kind of look like one part, just pry them apart with a small screwdriver).
I know you mentioned that your location and circumstances might determine what you have to do here, and that you already had an aftermarket cooler. I am just writing this to give you some details on one way to tackle this if you are able to do so. It was cheap and easy and it fixed a leak I had for a long time.
As a final note, this procedure is for the 4WD, I think the 2WD is a bit different. Good luck.
J
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