angryj

When I start up my 4runner with the clutch held in it starts up no problem and idles at a about 1500rpm. If I then let the clutch out before it warms up (approx 3-5 mins) then it actually starts grabbing very slightly - enough to actually move the truck forward an inch or so and the rpms drop to 1000. If I push the clutch back in the rpms go back to 1500 for the warmup period.
When warmed up the truck idles at 500rpm.

What's the cause of this? Is it bad? I can start the truck with the transmission in neutral and the Clutch Cancel button and it does the same thing - starts up, grabs a little, the idle drops a bit and it will idle like that until it's warmed up. It's also very hard to get the transmission into a gear until what seems like the transmission is warmed up.

desconhecido

I'm not sure I understand the problem. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch engaged (out) the truck moves forward? That sounds like a transmission problem, doesn't it?

Also, shifting problems can sometimes be fixed by bleeding the clutch hydraulics, if it's a problem with the clutch not disengaging properly.

angryj

Correct, when I let the clutch out with the transmission in neutral and the truck is still warming up it moves forward about an inch before it stops.

In short the clutch grabs in neutral while warming up.

desconhecido

If the transmission is in neutral, it's not a matter of the clutch grabbing. When the transmission is in neutral, the clutch should have absolutely no affect on vehicle motion. Also, when the clutch is engaged (pedal out) the clutch is supposed to grab -- that is, the flywheel is supposed to be mechanically connected to the transmission input shaft through the clutch.

I don't know enough about how a manual transmission works to say why you get some transfer through the transmission when it's in neutral, but it's clearly a transmission issue and not a clutch issue. The first step in figuring this out, I'd say, is changing the gear oil in the transmission. The original specs probably call for either GL-4 or GL-5, but many claim to get better shifting by using GL-4 only, though it might be hard to find. Search the forums for lots of opinions.

angryj

Thanks!


Seems like maybe it could me moving due to fluid dynamics and the oil being too cold/thick when its not warmed up which makes sense.

I think I'm going to switch to Redline MT-90 and see if that helps out.

desconhecido

If the transmission is in neutral and there is no hard mechanical connection between the input shaft and the output shaft, then I suppose it has to be either a fluid "connection", or maybe a gunk connection.

I think that there is at least one participant on this forum who has run ATF (probably DexronIII) in a Toyota manual transmission. Some manual transmissions (some Volvo and some MB) call for ATF. That's all I'll say about that.

kenbo53

do you know how the atf worked out my truck shifts real hard when the transmisions cold and ive been thinking about trying that

nv4runner

I haven't noticed my 92 3.0 doing that, but an 87 subaru station wagon that I used to have did. I never worried about it. As for the hard shifting, the oil could be getting too thick, and your synchronizes may be worn. Mine likes to pop out of gear the first time I start moving in the morning, and third is a little stiff sometimes even after warm-up.

axman667794pickup

might have something to do with the throwout bearing