'91 3vze Fuel vapor smell/Hard start
07-07-2013, 06:22 PM
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'91 3vze Fuel vapor smell/Hard start
Hey, i recently bought a '90 4runner with a 3vze in it because my old '89 was slowly dieing, and i'm having a slight fuel issue.
I can smell the vapor from 3 feet away from the truck, and when it starts after sitting for a while, it cranks over a little too long, fires and stutters around 500rpm for a second or two, and then dies. If i wait a few seconds and try again, it starts up with less stuttering, and then idles when i give it some gas. The idle seems a tad rough as well, a little shakier than my '89 3.0.
When it sits for about a half hour, it's fine, but anything longer and it gives me trouble. I should also mention that 15 minutes or so after i shut it off, i was hearing this weird sizzling noise behind the intake plenum that i couldn't investigate because the engine was too hot.
Anyone know what might be causing this? I'd like to fix it ASAP because it's my daily driver, and i'm driving around with 2 fire extinguishers in the passenger seat.
Thanks!
I can smell the vapor from 3 feet away from the truck, and when it starts after sitting for a while, it cranks over a little too long, fires and stutters around 500rpm for a second or two, and then dies. If i wait a few seconds and try again, it starts up with less stuttering, and then idles when i give it some gas. The idle seems a tad rough as well, a little shakier than my '89 3.0.
When it sits for about a half hour, it's fine, but anything longer and it gives me trouble. I should also mention that 15 minutes or so after i shut it off, i was hearing this weird sizzling noise behind the intake plenum that i couldn't investigate because the engine was too hot.
Anyone know what might be causing this? I'd like to fix it ASAP because it's my daily driver, and i'm driving around with 2 fire extinguishers in the passenger seat.
Thanks!
07-07-2013, 07:34 PM
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Get a third fire extinguisher.
No, let's just fix it. Check the Fuel Pressure Damper https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...octite-266710/. When they fail (there is a rubber membrane inside) fuel leaks out around the indicator screw. Tightening that screw does not help. Get some brown napkins (gasoline is so transparent it's hard to see on white), and after running for a few seconds stick it under the damper to see if there is any leakage. Any more 0.0 leakage means you need to replace it.
The Damper is about $80 at RockAuto, a little more at the dealership. (print out the RockAuto page first; they ain't gonna match it, but it might help.) You'll need the two crush washers for the damper (dealer only), and you'll need four for the fuel line cross-over you need to remove to get to the damper. No, you can't reuse them, unless you want to get that third fire extinguisher. 27mm wrench.
You'll also need the plenum (upper intake manifold) gasket; that's got to come off.
The hard start is because your fuel leak, where ever it is, is taking the static pressure off the fuel rail. So you need to crank it a few seconds to get the pressure up in the rail, then it will start. Fix your leak, your engine will start right up, and you won't burn to death.
No, let's just fix it. Check the Fuel Pressure Damper https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...octite-266710/. When they fail (there is a rubber membrane inside) fuel leaks out around the indicator screw. Tightening that screw does not help. Get some brown napkins (gasoline is so transparent it's hard to see on white), and after running for a few seconds stick it under the damper to see if there is any leakage. Any more 0.0 leakage means you need to replace it.
The Damper is about $80 at RockAuto, a little more at the dealership. (print out the RockAuto page first; they ain't gonna match it, but it might help.) You'll need the two crush washers for the damper (dealer only), and you'll need four for the fuel line cross-over you need to remove to get to the damper. No, you can't reuse them, unless you want to get that third fire extinguisher. 27mm wrench.
You'll also need the plenum (upper intake manifold) gasket; that's got to come off.
The hard start is because your fuel leak, where ever it is, is taking the static pressure off the fuel rail. So you need to crank it a few seconds to get the pressure up in the rail, then it will start. Fix your leak, your engine will start right up, and you won't burn to death.
Last edited by scope103; 07-07-2013 at 07:37 PM.
07-07-2013, 07:41 PM
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Get a third fire extinguisher.
No, let's just fix it. Check the Fuel Pressure Damper https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...octite-266710/. When they fail (there is a rubber membrane inside) fuel leaks out around the indicator screw. Tightening that screw does not help. Get some brown napkins (gasoline is so transparent it's hard to see on white), and after running for a few seconds stick it under the damper to see if there is any leakage. Any more 0.0 leakage means you need to replace it.
The Damper is about $80 at RockAuto, a little more at the dealership. (print out the RockAuto page first; they ain't gonna match it, but it might help.) You'll need the two crush washers for the damper (dealer only), and you'll need four for the fuel line cross-over you need to remove to get to the damper. No, you can't reuse them, unless you want to get that third fire extinguisher. 27mm wrench.
You'll also need the plenum (upper intake manifold) gasket; that's got to come off.
The hard start is because your fuel leak, where ever it is, is taking the static pressure off the fuel rail. So you need to crank it a few seconds to get the pressure up in the rail, then it will start. Fix your leak, your engine will start right up, and you won't burn to death.
No, let's just fix it. Check the Fuel Pressure Damper https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...octite-266710/. When they fail (there is a rubber membrane inside) fuel leaks out around the indicator screw. Tightening that screw does not help. Get some brown napkins (gasoline is so transparent it's hard to see on white), and after running for a few seconds stick it under the damper to see if there is any leakage. Any more 0.0 leakage means you need to replace it.
The Damper is about $80 at RockAuto, a little more at the dealership. (print out the RockAuto page first; they ain't gonna match it, but it might help.) You'll need the two crush washers for the damper (dealer only), and you'll need four for the fuel line cross-over you need to remove to get to the damper. No, you can't reuse them, unless you want to get that third fire extinguisher. 27mm wrench.
You'll also need the plenum (upper intake manifold) gasket; that's got to come off.
The hard start is because your fuel leak, where ever it is, is taking the static pressure off the fuel rail. So you need to crank it a few seconds to get the pressure up in the rail, then it will start. Fix your leak, your engine will start right up, and you won't burn to death.
That first comment made me laugh really hard, thanks.
Where is the damper located. Can i get to it without taking the plenum off, just to test and make sure that's where the leak is from?
Last edited by xzen73x; 07-07-2013 at 07:54 PM. Reason: quote
07-07-2013, 10:40 PM
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You can get your fingertips on it with everything installed to check for leakage. But to actually remove it, I believe you need to remove the plenum and the fuel line cross-over. But someone on this forum said they did it with a crows-foot wrench and extension.
07-07-2013, 11:02 PM
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Ohhhh ok awesome, thanks so much, i'll check it out tomorrow morning.
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