'90 "Loaded" 4Runner For $4,000...What Do you Think?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Corvallis, OREGON
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'90 "Loaded" 4Runner For $4,000...What Do you Think?
So I'm thinking about getting into the second 2nd gen 4Runners, my first pickup was a '95 so I'm not too foreign to general function and mechanics.
Here's the link.
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/1014706740.html
However, I've heard a lot of bad things about the 3.0, especially with 204,000 miles on an engine. I have a 22RE sitting in a totaled sitting in a 1985 Toyota 4Runner that could swap in.
Speaking of that, can anyone tell me about the compatability of parts from the 1st generation 4Runners to the 2nd? I mean I have an entire drivetrain (with a Marlin crawlbox) that I wouldn't mind putting into it, is that possible?
Basically I'm just looking for some feedback, mainly about the 3.0L, and any other issues I should look for.
Thanks.
Here's the link.
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/1014706740.html
However, I've heard a lot of bad things about the 3.0, especially with 204,000 miles on an engine. I have a 22RE sitting in a totaled sitting in a 1985 Toyota 4Runner that could swap in.
Speaking of that, can anyone tell me about the compatability of parts from the 1st generation 4Runners to the 2nd? I mean I have an entire drivetrain (with a Marlin crawlbox) that I wouldn't mind putting into it, is that possible?
Basically I'm just looking for some feedback, mainly about the 3.0L, and any other issues I should look for.
Thanks.
#2
Registered User
I think it's a time bomb waiting to happen.
But seriously has the headgasket recall been done on it?
From experience my 3.0 popped on me at 254,000 and it had the recall done on it too.
Going from a v6 to a 22re it's a downgrade as far as power and it's going to be as much of a pain to just do a upgrade on the motor to more hp. Kind of defeating the purpose IMHO.
I'd find around the same year truck with a popped 22re to put your engine and drive train into or just sell it.
As far as compatibility the 22re should swap into any 4x4 pickup or 4runner upto 1995 but it would be something that had a 22re in it to begin with. There are some 90's 4 runners with 22re's.
Sorry if I was kinda negative but that's my honest opinion on it. I mean the 4 runner seems nice and all but it's kinda up in the air on the 3.0 motor...
But seriously has the headgasket recall been done on it?
From experience my 3.0 popped on me at 254,000 and it had the recall done on it too.
Going from a v6 to a 22re it's a downgrade as far as power and it's going to be as much of a pain to just do a upgrade on the motor to more hp. Kind of defeating the purpose IMHO.
I'd find around the same year truck with a popped 22re to put your engine and drive train into or just sell it.
As far as compatibility the 22re should swap into any 4x4 pickup or 4runner upto 1995 but it would be something that had a 22re in it to begin with. There are some 90's 4 runners with 22re's.
Sorry if I was kinda negative but that's my honest opinion on it. I mean the 4 runner seems nice and all but it's kinda up in the air on the 3.0 motor...
Last edited by 934rnr; 01-31-2009 at 01:05 PM.
#3
I'd find a "virgin" 4Runner, that someone hasn't messed with. Turning those 35's would have put a strain on the engine (even w/ 5.29s) , and 3.0s shouldn't be strained if you want the HG to last.
Also, 3.0s are more difficult to work on. No room to work. Worse on gass as well. I could keep going...
Also, 3.0s are more difficult to work on. No room to work. Worse on gass as well. I could keep going...
#4
Registered User
My 1990 3.0 is working fine at 230k, I wheel and plow hard with mine and still on the original gasket. I do agree it is under powered, and a pain to work on, but it ballsy with torque (for its size)
#5
Banned
For 4k with that mileage ...I think it would be worth spending some more time researching. I bought my runner in december for 3k with 190k on it. HG recall was done at 95k as well as the timing blt and wtr pmp. I have a bit of lash noise but dont all yotas tick "just a bit"...lol...but then I'm anal about rattles and noises and such... probably isnt even a tick in mine, I should go out and pull the rocks out of the tires.
As far as the 3.slow...well, thats just what it is. It's certainly not a race inspired engine, but from all I have gathered here since joining, aside from the recall they are a true testament to gutless dependability. I have been researching doing a 3.4 swap on my 92 just trying to figure out how plug and go it will be with that swap.....
ramble...ramble...
As far as the 3.slow...well, thats just what it is. It's certainly not a race inspired engine, but from all I have gathered here since joining, aside from the recall they are a true testament to gutless dependability. I have been researching doing a 3.4 swap on my 92 just trying to figure out how plug and go it will be with that swap.....
ramble...ramble...
#7
Registered User
I think $4,000 is a bit much, but it mostly(not quite all, but mostly) depends on the maintenance done to it.
My 3.0 had to have the head gaskets done 25,000mi ago because it'd been FOREVER since the previous owner changed the spark plugs, and one was so rusty it broke flush with the head when I tried to remove it. Now it needs a head gasket because I didn't catch a tiny crack forming in the radiator, so it overheated, so again, not the 3.0's fault, per se.
The crawlbox could be used if you got the appropriate Marlin adapter, but swapping the 22RE in would require moving motor mounts an stuff. 3.4 swap would be easier and more beneficial at that point.
My 3.0 had to have the head gaskets done 25,000mi ago because it'd been FOREVER since the previous owner changed the spark plugs, and one was so rusty it broke flush with the head when I tried to remove it. Now it needs a head gasket because I didn't catch a tiny crack forming in the radiator, so it overheated, so again, not the 3.0's fault, per se.
The crawlbox could be used if you got the appropriate Marlin adapter, but swapping the 22RE in would require moving motor mounts an stuff. 3.4 swap would be easier and more beneficial at that point.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Corvallis, OREGON
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I asked the guy about the maintenance done to the vehicle and he said that the motor has been rebuilt but he doesn't have the receipts to prove it, so it could have been a really bad job or a really good job, but I could find out with a little research.
He didn't know about the head gasket or timing belt.
Up here, I've been looking around, pretty much everything worth picking up, that I can work on, is $3-4K, and f.y.i., I'm a poor college student who's working with a cheap 2.5 ton jack, a box full of sockets and wrenches.
Thanks for all the input thus far!
He didn't know about the head gasket or timing belt.
Up here, I've been looking around, pretty much everything worth picking up, that I can work on, is $3-4K, and f.y.i., I'm a poor college student who's working with a cheap 2.5 ton jack, a box full of sockets and wrenches.
Thanks for all the input thus far!
#9
Banned
I hate to go off topic here, but I lost my thread about the ADD to MAN. conversion. I AM going to do this. I have a few questions about the ADD system though.
is it just a swap...I had some cnfusion on reading some posts and such. like use the spindle nut conversion on **** (except ADD) ...will I need a conversion kit?..or will I throw and go?....I hate having a perfectly functioning 4x4 that all I can think about are mods for it....lol...
also....rear stabilizer bar...at the top of the mounting link there is a solid wire(tension wire I believe) across from side to the other side. but there is no tension on it...it is benty and awry......hmmmm....... I know I'm off subject...but you guys know how I like to ramble
is it just a swap...I had some cnfusion on reading some posts and such. like use the spindle nut conversion on **** (except ADD) ...will I need a conversion kit?..or will I throw and go?....I hate having a perfectly functioning 4x4 that all I can think about are mods for it....lol...
also....rear stabilizer bar...at the top of the mounting link there is a solid wire(tension wire I believe) across from side to the other side. but there is no tension on it...it is benty and awry......hmmmm....... I know I'm off subject...but you guys know how I like to ramble
#10
Banned
I was looking at my daughters hamster running and running on that damn wheel when it hit me....I need a t3 turbocharger for my 3.slow and then I'll have a 3.oh no.
#12
Contributing Member
I would wait , $4000 sounds like a lot for this 4runner. Maybe offer him $3000 if he says no , just wait .THe right one will show it self , Patience.
#13
Banned
Automatic Disconnecting Differential.....lol...and yep I think I am a bit ADD as well....or was that ADHD?...hmmm....Sorry johannes...Didn't mean to wreck it for ya.....
#15
patience... and 3rd gen
wait till you can get a 3rd gen. I had a taco with a 3.4, sold it and got a 94 3.slow. Also, I had not been enlightened about this wonderful website. The reason is that I never had any major issues with my taco.. and it already had a lift! I found out about this site because soon after I bought my 2nd gen I started having problems. gas mileage is terrible, you will have to replace the rear coils to get rid of the notorious butt sag, and they don't have much power.
IMHO, don't buy a 2nd gen. I regret it every day, and I love toyota. There is a reason why there is a whole forum dedicated to 3.4 swaps.
happy hunting!
IMHO, don't buy a 2nd gen. I regret it every day, and I love toyota. There is a reason why there is a whole forum dedicated to 3.4 swaps.
happy hunting!
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Corvallis, OREGON
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
He replaced the rear coils, they're fine, but yeah, we'll see about the 3.0L, I've heard a lot of negative, some positive, but we'll see. Basically I can't afford (time or money) to be too choosy. I'll at least have a mechanic look at this one (for the rebuild) before I pick it up.
#17
another thing.. if you really like the truck and it is thoroughly checked by a mechanic, then go to edmunds.com. this is what some dealers use to price vehicles. Give it an honest assessment for the condition, "outstanding", then print out what it says and take that as a bargaining tool. I guarantee it will not be $4k.
Now, looking at the ad, this looks like a nice truck, with a ton of mods so the guy is naturally going to think he can get a lot more for it... but 240k is a ton of miles, rebuilt or not.
channel "the donald" and go negotiate!
good luck!
Now, looking at the ad, this looks like a nice truck, with a ton of mods so the guy is naturally going to think he can get a lot more for it... but 240k is a ton of miles, rebuilt or not.
channel "the donald" and go negotiate!
good luck!
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Corvallis, OREGON
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lol, I never got the exo'd, I picked out a different one...and three months later guy makes a really bad decision and I have $10K worth of parts on a chassis that can drive no faster than 40 mph because of the alignment and there's a lot of body damage.
#20
Contributing Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: marlbank, canada
Posts: 2,839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the one saving grace it has going for it is the 5 spd. it might be a bit over (?) geared with the 529's as 588 seem to be the preferred ratio for 33's. it has 5 matching tires and the rear swing out carrier. maybe start out at 2500 and go no more than 3500$, that is a bit of money for that age and mileage.
the 3.0 seems to work better with the manual than the auto from what folks on here have said. mine has been very good to me and i have been very hard on it. listen to your mech and base your decision on that.
lots of help on here if you do find issues after purchase. if you can score it for less, youll have a bit of $$$ left over for repairs or mods.
lee
the 3.0 seems to work better with the manual than the auto from what folks on here have said. mine has been very good to me and i have been very hard on it. listen to your mech and base your decision on that.
lots of help on here if you do find issues after purchase. if you can score it for less, youll have a bit of $$$ left over for repairs or mods.
lee