RetchedOne

Let me start off... this is my first toyota! I've owned several k5's in the past, most on one ton axles, locked on 39.5's... had a lot of fun! however, they are all a thing of the past now.
So i bought a nissan 350Z, what a fun car... But now with winter approaching, and the snow/freezing temps we get here around Seattle, I need something else to drive, at least through the winter months.

In comes the 1990 4Runner I picked up on Sunday... Problem is it has a blown 3.0 3VZ-E that the previous owner took out to replace. I have the complete vehicle, and all the parts (at least i think i do) to put it back together.

I'm purchasing a new long block from a local company (taking my old one as a core). I've never worked on one of these 4Runners... and the engine bay is empty... hence i cant tag stuff A/A and B/B etc...

I've downloaded all the FSM manuals for the 1993 from http://myweb.dal.ca/is353832/93fsm/index.html and have been going throught them, along with numerous posts here and on a few other BBS sites, along with searching like a mofo for the past 2 weeks.

So I'm left with several Questions...

1 - Dropping the new motor in...

I need to change the clutch while it's all apart... it has 209,000 miles so why not right? I read teh marlin 1200 lb clutch seems to be the best bet.. so I'll go that route... Anything else why it's apart?

I'm considering dropping the Tranny and transfer case, splitting and replacing seals while I'm at it...
Is it easier (as in aligning the clutch and mating the motor and tranny) to mate them outside the 4runner, and drop them in together? I can lif tthe transfer case and mate it up when the motor/trans assembly is in...?

2 - Pictures...
Does anyone have pictures of what goes where in teh engine bay? I have none... and it's not a chevy so i'm lost.So

3 - What else should i do while it's out?

4 - Do i need to send the injectors off to be serviced? It seems to be less than 100 bucks to have them done...

5 - Distributor... is it still good after 200,000 miles?

6 - ??? I'm sure I have a few more questions.. there just not coming to me right now...

7 - What bolt goes where... I have a box of parts...

(Can a mod fix my Post title.. i forgot to fix my typo)

lukeland68w

I would change the clutch, wouldnt rebuild the tranny. Not sure if you can but if you can, install both engine and tranny at the same time. its not fun to install the tranny w/out a tranny jack and by yourself.....tired of doing that.
just make sure the block is ready to run(pan/pickuptube installed etc...) and then start posting pics of whatever is in question. just did mine so my memory should still be fresh as to what goes where and all. good luck and have fun

RetchedOne

Thanks,

Kinda what I was thinking... Last time I had to align a AUTO tranny sitting on a floor jack to a small block already bolted into the engine bay, I threw more than one wrench...

So i'm thinking just drop the tranny, seperate the transfer case from the transmission, and mate the trans and motor together to slide back in, course after i replace a few input and output seals...

I found a few "engine bay" pics in google images that might help, but I'm sure there will be plenty more needed...

I heard/read the starter is a nightmare to preplace once the motor is in... Is it worth replacing now? (Keep in mind I dont know it's condition)

JeEVeS

First off welcome to the world of yota. K5s are fun but i definitely see the mark they leave on trees around my neck of the woods. Second, good job searchin around. I see you already found the FSM.

1. IMHO (in mu hubble opinion) you can really go either way with mounting before v. after. I have taken my motor out piece by piece to rebuild. I have engine hoisted the whole thing out. And i have bench pressed multiple trannies from my chest to under the truck. Doing them all at once is kinda a pain.

2. Im a 22re not a 3vz, so no pics, but there are many rebuild threads here that you should be able to get the idea. (in my experience from different vehicle, toyotas make sense how they go together).

3. back to 1. alittle. I don't think i would go to far in replaceing seals. replace the ones you can see if you want. other than that look for leaks (can't resist, your a chevy guy so you know what they look like ).

4.injectors are something that i have always planned on doing but never done. someday. like you said its cheap enough and eveyone i know had great results from them.

5. buy a second distributer and run the first. ( i like to use all i can out of parts.) imo factory wires leave a bit to be desired.

As for bolts. I can pretty much do everything to my truck with a 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm spanner wrenches and matching sockets. Once you get to the wheel bearings you need a 54mm socket i think (its like a 1 1/4"). tranny and differential drive flanges are 20 or 21mm.

Take pictures when you have a question and it makes it so much easier to help answer.

O and the clutch thing. I run a centerforce stage 2 clutch. I love it, great feel to the pedal and i have never felt it slip (and i run a pretty low ratio in my drive train.). In the same breath i don't think you can go wrong with anything Marlin sells. He wheels, all his workers wheel, and they use their trucks.

JeEVeS

I feel it would be more of a pain to mount the transfer case to the motor tranny combo than it would be to mount the tranny case combo to the motor under the truck.

RetchedOne

Thanks!

I've got tools galore... i seem to lose one, buy a replacement, then find the two i lost...

Your right on the leaks... cant argue there...

RetchedOne

Hmmm...
Ever hoisted a NP205 and TH400 34 inches into the AIR It blows...

How much does the transfer case on the 4Runner weigh?

phildelfino

Take a bunch of pics. People here love them. Post all your specs from machine shop and findings you get (overbore, shaved this or that, flow rate, compression readings, etc). It helps the rest of us.

Good luck with the rebuild and welcome to yotatech. This is a good place with knowledgeable people. I'll be reading.

JonnyBoy

I'll chime in on the starter: it's easier than messing with a chevy starter on a '70 Monte Carlo. This might be 'cause you don't have to deal with shims on a toy starter, but it's really not that terrible. That being said, while you have the motor out and such, you can pull apart the starter and check the contacts, the solenoid is rebuildable and the contacts are really pretty cheap. Even from the dealer!

It wasn't very hard to mate the 3.4 I swapped in while the tranny was in the chassis, but then again I didn't change out any of the seals. Just check if your output seals are leaking, and change them if they are, but my tranny has 223,000 miles on it and it doesn't leak anywhere. The input seal you should probably do if you wanna do it right the first time, though.

The distributor: pretty much like Jeeves said. For all I know my 3.0 was still on it's original dist when I yanked the motor at 211,000 miles. And as for the injectors, it's sorta like the input seal...do it right the first time and you won't have to do it again.

RetchedOne

Thanks johnny,

I hate buying parts i dont need, but also hate trying to locate 1 injector at 8:45 pm on thanksgiving weekend

JeEVeS

some run on 5 cyl. shoot, some 22re owners run on 3