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90 4runner, 22re, cutting out WOT, no power, surging

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Old 08-15-2013, 12:06 AM
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90 4runner, 22re, cutting out WOT, no power, surging

1990 4runner - 22re 5spd

Okay so here's the story from the beginning

My truck was running fine one day while getting gas notices I had a very bad gas leak took my truck to a local shop ended up being a bad fuel line from the sending unit to the main line got my truck back and the next day it was cutting out when I have it full throttle (no power acting like it was hitting rev limiter) took it back to the shop said I had water in my gas and they replaced the fuel filter and recommended I drop the tank and drain it so I dropped the tank noticed the sending unit was bad replaced it cleaned the tank didn't fix the problem so I replaced plugs wires cap and rotar nothing help replaced tps nothing helped (fuel pump is only 2 months old) checked timing it was way advanced checked it with a timing light and when I slowly rev the motor the timing mark jumped backwards but on slow throttle it reved fine but from idle to WOT it bogs like its hesitant to get to top rpm and the cutting out and acting like it hits rev limiter only happens under load or when I'm driving an push the clutch in to rev it some told me my chain "jumped a tooth" (wasnt off at all)so I replaced the timing chain oil pump and put a brand new head on it did solve the problem I need help bad I've spent over 800 trying to fix this problem when I drive it and "baby" it it drives fine when I try to hammer it down to get it to go it acts sluggish like losing power and cuts out like its hitting rev limiter I adjusted the tps today with a ohm meter the truck idles at about 800 with the idle screw all the way in and the motor surges after I come to a stop 3-4 times then idles fine
SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!
ive replaced:
Fuel filter
Fuel pumps 2 mos old
Cap rotor wires plugs
Tps
Adjusted afm
O2 sensor 3 months old
Replaced head,cam, valves, head gasket,intake manifold gasket,and exhaust gasket ( I do have a exhaust lead at bottom of header)
Put injector cleaner and ran non ethanol threw it didn't help
Don't know what to do anymore
Please help
Another note when I hit the throttle from idle to wide open the timing mark jumps backwards (retarded)
Old 08-15-2013, 12:09 AM
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Didn't**** solve the problem after replacing chain and oil pump and head sorry I hate this phone
Old 08-15-2013, 01:13 AM
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pullin any codes??? my igniter did that on my 89 3vze
Old 08-15-2013, 06:24 AM
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No codes at all
Old 08-16-2013, 03:51 PM
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Someone please help
Old 08-16-2013, 04:00 PM
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Another thing to add is I have the idle screw All the way in to make it idle at 750-800
Old 08-21-2013, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Scrussanation
pullin any codes??? my igniter did that on my 89 3vze
Scrussanation, can you explain this more?

I'm not sure if my problem is the same as the OP.

I have a '90 3vze that bogs down/starves for fuel (I think).. at a certain point in the drive after the truck has been sitting overnight, it hesitates and lurches, and I have to limp along until it clears up... when I first had this problem, I had a leaking fuel tank and leaking fuel pump hanger (where the fuel leaves the tank). Both have been replaced. The problem went away, but has recently returned. It's as though air is getting into the fuel line.

Does anyone know if there is a valve on the fuel pump that could be stuck and allowing fuel to drain back into the tank?

I can't find any leaks while the pump is running.

I get 25/26 Lean/Rich codes at the same time!

I occasionally smell fuel while driving and after driving.

Side notes:

-TPS and AFM are tested and working well.
-O2 sensor is who know how old, have a new one on order (suspect bad because of codes).
-can't find any vacuum leaks
-attendants often top-off the tank and once after a fill, truck in the warm sun, gas was coming back up the fill tube. I noticed my fill tube is rusted badly so I am replacing it soon. Charcoal (vapor) cannister valve may have been blocked, but I got it open and cleaned out and air seems to be flowing correctly now. But none of this seems related as the problem was fixed for a while by replacing the fuel pump hanger.

Last edited by Neeaar; 08-21-2013 at 05:45 AM.
Old 08-25-2013, 11:13 AM
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I noticed today that my motor surges when holding in the brake?
Old 08-25-2013, 11:48 AM
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Question I feel your pain

I have a 89 22re and it has been a 6 month adventure in auto mechanics. It all started with not starting, then it started and went to not idling and cutting out when under a load. I have replaced every aspect of the fuel system, adjusted the tps, cleaned out the upper intake, throttle body, and checked the IACV. Then when I was coming down the mountain it just died like I shut off the ignition. OMG!!! I believe the last problem to be the Alternator eating the battery amps. I had the battery tested and out of 800 cranking amps I had 91, so its a new alternator next and we shall see if all of my issue will be solved.
Old 08-26-2013, 08:50 AM
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The altinator is brand new but I would check your distributor that could be going out causing you problem makes me think it might be cause of it dying
Old 09-03-2013, 12:01 PM
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Problem is still happening can't find anything took it to someone they didn't charge me anything because they didn't know what was wrong now it's idling high 1200-1400 and when pressing in the brake motor surges rapidly let of the brake returns to idling high and the idle screw is all the way in
Old 09-03-2013, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 22rerunner
I noticed today that my motor surges when holding in the brake?
That's usually what happens if idle us above 1250rpm at least in my 3vze
Old 09-03-2013, 12:45 PM
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Is your tps in spec? Has anyone ever adjusted the two factory set screws in the throttle body to adjust the spring diapraghm and throttle spot. I know they have technical names but then again I'm speaking from 3vze experiences
Old 09-03-2013, 06:29 PM
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Going by your Original post the engine performance malfunction happened after you had the fuel line replaced...?

That's where I would start. Check all other fuel lines for damage.

Auto mechanic whom repaired your truck damaged some components near the intake while servicing fuel line...?

Rubber fuel line(s) pinched or restricted...?

Fuel filter incorrectly installed..?

Air Flow Meter faulty and or out of spec..?

Intake Air Hose leaking...?

Vacuum leaks...?

Poor quality and or contaminated fuel...?
Old 09-09-2013, 11:02 AM
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The mechanics won't talk to me about it they say "it's your problem we just replaced the line" I checked them all and there good now this morning I started it and OMG it poored smoke out for about 10 minutes and I mean poored it out worse then a deisel now my oil gauge is on L and the tps hasn't been adjusted after you said that I looked and I'm missing the bottom bolt to it? Don't know how that happened unless someone screwed with it and my afm has been messed with as well when I try to lean it out with my finger it chokes and dies I don't know what the hell to do!!! My fuel filter brand new and installed correctly I sprayed either on all the vacuum lines with no result intake hose is good I dropped the tank and cleaned it last week been running non ethanol gas threw it with no changes
Old 09-09-2013, 11:38 AM
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what color was the smoke that was pouring out? you aren't giving complete info, but if it's blue or white, that sounds like a compression check is in order.

was the filter sock in the tank replaced when you worked on it? not enough info.

you said that you adjusted the tps, so if the screw is missing...

have you tried disconnecting the tps, to see if the symptoms change? as in, unplug the wiring harness connector.

you haven't posted one single cpu code, do you know how to read the codes? are you clearing the codes as you work on it? disconnecting that tps plug will throw a code, at least you can use that to check the code functionality.

I wonder if the surging with brakes on, and idle issues, are because of a vacuum leak... having you tried plugging the power brake booster connection on the throttle body? then see if applying the brakes makes a difference.

Last edited by osv; 09-09-2013 at 11:45 AM.
Old 09-09-2013, 06:29 PM
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Motor blew today thanks for all your help oh man gotta love toyotas
Old 09-09-2013, 06:32 PM
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Smoke was blue sock replaced no codes said that earlier I didn't adjust the tps so maybe someone else did idk yes when I disconnects the tps nothing changed did try the brake vacuum thing and even when I unplugged te tps it wouldn't throw a code
Old 09-09-2013, 06:40 PM
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Blue smoke=engine oil.

Sorry for your engine

Sounds like either the shop sabotaged you VIA tampering, or this was an extremely unfortunate coincidence.... >_<
Old 09-09-2013, 07:18 PM
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wow! that whole situation is messed up!! not throwing codes could indicate a whole 'nother issue, sorry to hear it.

hit up craig's list for another engine, I've had to do it twice now... want to hear a worse hard luck story that what you are looking at?

I spent $1200 on a rebuilt motor with a new head, never started, guy had the receipt from the shop that built it... I drove 100 miles round trip, loaded it into the back of a Honda fit, installed it, it ran well, didn't use a drop of oil.

put maybe 4,000 miles on it, then some idiot with this jury rigged trailer lost a wheel on his passenger side of the trailer... I was five lanes over from him, in the fast lane, and somehow a big chunk of aluminum wheel flew across five lanes, into a small opening in front of my radiator, and tore a big hole in the radiator... I never thought to look at the temp gauge, hell, I put all new hoses on the motor!!

I didn't know the radiator was dry, and ended up frying the motor, the head was melted in between two combustion chambers, it was ugly... 88 mile tow home... spent maybe $700 on an engbldr head, new studs, etc... all that I got out of that was water in the oil, right off the bat :-/

got a $900 motor off of craigs list, with a rebuilt bottom end, I knew it was rebuilt because the freeze plugs weren't original... had to drive another 100 miles, and bring the long block home in the passenger seat area of my Miata... sketchy... when I pulled the valve cover, the top of the head was burnt oil and fried... looked like it 300,000 miles on it!

however, it doesn't leak a drop, and it doesn't appear to be using any oil, but I only have maybe 1,000 miles on it.

i'd like to believe that i'm 2 for 2 with craigslist motors, lol

Last edited by osv; 09-09-2013 at 07:25 PM.


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