89 yota truck 4x4 conversion advice
11-17-2013, 10:11 AM
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89 yota truck 4x4 conversion advice
hello Gents new to the forums and currently deployed to Africa but I have a build in mind and wondering if anyone else has done this.
I have a 89 Toyota pickup with a 22r with weber carb my father in law gave me with 350000 miles on it. Still in good condition and the wife wants me to convert it to 4X4. I know what your going to say buy a non running 4X4 it will be cheaper, not an option my father in law bout this car brand new in 89 and my wife learned to drive in the car so it has sentimental value!
Any who I am a Maintenance Warrant officer in the Army so labor is not an issue or fabricating I will be doing all the work my self.
So all that being said I need a parts list of what I will need to convert the car to 4X4
I figure I will need
4X4 transmission with transfer case
drive shafts
front differential assembly
What I need from you guys is advice and help, will the front diff bolt up on the 4X2 chassis? or will I have to fabricate mounts? does the front suspension need to be modified or will the front spindles accept the 4X4 CV joints? Do I need a different transmission mount or transfer case bracket?
Can I use the stock 4X2 rear differential? can I use the stock 4X2 steering?
anything I didn't remember that anyone has ever done would be helpful thanks!
I have a 89 Toyota pickup with a 22r with weber carb my father in law gave me with 350000 miles on it. Still in good condition and the wife wants me to convert it to 4X4. I know what your going to say buy a non running 4X4 it will be cheaper, not an option my father in law bout this car brand new in 89 and my wife learned to drive in the car so it has sentimental value!
Any who I am a Maintenance Warrant officer in the Army so labor is not an issue or fabricating I will be doing all the work my self.
So all that being said I need a parts list of what I will need to convert the car to 4X4
I figure I will need
4X4 transmission with transfer case
drive shafts
front differential assembly
What I need from you guys is advice and help, will the front diff bolt up on the 4X2 chassis? or will I have to fabricate mounts? does the front suspension need to be modified or will the front spindles accept the 4X4 CV joints? Do I need a different transmission mount or transfer case bracket?
Can I use the stock 4X2 rear differential? can I use the stock 4X2 steering?
anything I didn't remember that anyone has ever done would be helpful thanks!
11-17-2013, 10:40 AM
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Frame is different.
Buy a 4x4 chassis or truck...and swap over cab, bed, motor...whatever.
On a 3rd gen pickup...the 2wd and 4wd are completely diff animals.
Only one its remotely worthwhile to do is a Prerunner Tacoma. It shares alot with a 4wd tacoma.
Keep the old fellas truck as it and get her a 4x4.
Buy a 4x4 chassis or truck...and swap over cab, bed, motor...whatever.
On a 3rd gen pickup...the 2wd and 4wd are completely diff animals.
Only one its remotely worthwhile to do is a Prerunner Tacoma. It shares alot with a 4wd tacoma.
Keep the old fellas truck as it and get her a 4x4.
11-18-2013, 12:22 AM
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Hello Chief...The 89 came with IFS. If I were going to make suggestions, I would suggest doing a solid axle. To add IFS would require alot more welding. I have not done either one but think solid axle would be easier.
Would your wife go for doing a frame swap and keeping the rest of the truck as it is? A frame swap is easy to do and not as intimidating as it may sound. You would need a 89-94 truck frame and it would be IFS. 79-85 were solid axle and that would require alot of fabricating. The frames look the same but there are some big differences.
If doing a frame swap is possible, I have the steps on how to do that. Easy to do. You would need a tranny and tcase.
I am sure Driedel has done what you are wanting to do and you can PM him for more information. Here is his link>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/...s-help-255214/
Would your wife go for doing a frame swap and keeping the rest of the truck as it is? A frame swap is easy to do and not as intimidating as it may sound. You would need a 89-94 truck frame and it would be IFS. 79-85 were solid axle and that would require alot of fabricating. The frames look the same but there are some big differences.
If doing a frame swap is possible, I have the steps on how to do that. Easy to do. You would need a tranny and tcase.
I am sure Driedel has done what you are wanting to do and you can PM him for more information. Here is his link>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/...s-help-255214/
11-18-2013, 12:26 AM
#6
Spend your free time learning about Toyota 4X4 vehicles.The wife good at wrenching and welding ?? Let her see just how much time and money is involved
Granted what you want to is not really hard depending on your skill level just very labor intense .
You need all the parts so much easier to buy a complete vehicle rather then pieces spending a 1000 hours plus and much $$$$ in fuel running to yards for forgotten little things.
350,000 miles and just what has been done lately to the engine it must be on the third or fourth timing chain .
Still the original bottom end ?
While the engine is out to make the front end changes so much easier a real pain to change the oil pan and pick up under the truck.
Now is the time to decide if you want to go with the solid axle or not .
11-18-2013, 12:30 AM
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Steps to doing a Frame Swap. This is something that would be better all the way around. The 2 wheels has 5 lugs and the 4 wheels have 6 lugs.
Copied....
This is with motor and transmission already removed.
I have talked to a couple of other people on here about doing frame swap or body swaps. I have done two and tried to write out a nice way of doing this. I did the swaps before finding Yotatech and wish I would of taken pictures. I figured I would put this in my thread so if others do a search on it, it might make finding this thread easier and so I can call it up quick if I need it. I havent done a 4runner but the steps would be about the same. If you can pull a motor or tranny you can swap bodies/frames. It s very doable and nothing to be afraid of.
I did the 22re's. Apparently a 3.0 and 22res frame arent interchangeable without redoing the motor mounts. I am sure everythign here would apply to a 3.0, but I havent done this so will not say for sure. 84-88 Pickup frames and 89-95 frames are not interchange able from what I have been told.
On the 84-89 4runner behind the Drivers rear tire is a wire disconnect point, for the tailgate and lights that would make separating the wires for body removal. Im sure a 90-95 4Runner would be the same, but I havent done one so cant say for sure.
Fierohinks has some pic in his thread for some ideas and what things will look like. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-228184/
Dutchbelly has some good pics of doing a Frame swap...... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...ild-up-234352/
I didnt have a lift, so if you were going to leave the drive train in, there are some steps that would be different and I will try and write them up as best as I can at a later time.
First I center the Steering Wheel and remove the motor and tranny. If you have a lift and can get the body high enough this would really help, but this is how I have to do this.
Getting the Steering Wheel and wheels straight just makes it alot easier for later. When I take the cab off and put it back on is when I install and remove the Steering Rod is probably the most hardest. You may find another way, but this works for me.
Then on the frame by the right front tire you have 2 brake lines to disconnect. This is the best place to do it as it keeps the lines on the cab intact and the frame lines will stay intact. This will take care of your brake issues. ( Pic at bottom)
I then disconnect the Wiring harness under the Passenger side seat and this will let the cab come off with out any problems other than you front blinkers and I take the Front Bumper off just so I dont have to lift the cab so high. Leave the wiring harness to the Tail lights/ Fuel Pump on the back half of the frame til later. You can get it when you take the bed off. All of your electrical and computer wires will come with the cab. This is set up quite nice. Just mark all of your wires and such when you pull your motor. When you pull your motor, you will have taken care of alot of other steps like fuel lines.
You have 6 bolts that hold the cab to the frame. The cab and front end come off in one piece. I already have the hood off. I leave fenders, doors, and interior in. 2 bolts by the Radiator, 2 bolts behind the front tires, and 2 bolts toward the rear of the cab is all that hold the cab to the frame. You can tell them as they sit on the outside of the frame and have rubber bushings. You may have to lift your carpet to hold them with wrench to take the nut off.
You have 8-10 bolts that hold the bed on. They have a tab that sticks in the bed so you dont have to have a wrench to hold the top. You should take some PB Blaster a nite or two ahead of time before you do this as most or all of the bolts will break. They are special so you will need to get some from Toyota or the salvage. This is a good time to remove the 3 screws that hold your gas tank fill tube to the bed or body of a 4Runner. Also I have had problems of these nuts backing off when I have had a bed bolt off before so I would suggest using locktite. I use 4 concrete blocks and set the bed on these with the floor of the bed on the blocks so I dont have to worry about damaging the bed sides.
Once all of this is done, I use some concrete blocks and 4x4 wood to support the cab. If your rocker panels are in good shape you can rest it on the wood. If not you might want to support it using blocks of wood between the 4x4 and floor. I set the concrete blocks about a foot from the cab to clear the front tires. This way could be a little unstable so be careful or you might have some other way of doing this. Here is whereI get 3 other guys to help lift the cab. 2 lifting and 2 setting up the stand for the cab. The back is heavy, but the front is light. I go about a foot high off of the frame for everything to clear, but work the frame out slowly and make sure it is high enough. I back the frame out as the front part of the frame is lower than the back part.
I get the new frame with axles in them or you can just put yours in. Put the wiring harness for the back part of the truck and fuel tank in and hopefully you will have brake lines and fuel lines already on or you will get to do that too. Try and get a frame with this stuff already on It will save you a lot of time. Put your exhaust in before you move the new frame under the cab.
Before I start all of this, I try to have the new frame prepped as far as I can. Without counting motor/tranny removal and having the frame ready. I have done this in about 20 total hours using basic tools in a weekend by myself except lifting the cab and body. Cutting torch for bolts, air tools, and a lift would be soooo nice. If you can get the body high enough it would make swapping alot easier, but I dont have access to a lift so this is how I do it. The first time I did this I was intimidated, but by the time I had the old frame out I wasnt in the least bit concerened. If you can pull a motor and tranny out, you wont have any problems. You will be quite surprised when you do it. Any questions that come up, feel free to ask.
If you are going to use a lift and keep the drive train in you will need to
Disconnect your fuel line from fuel filter.
Remove your electrical lines from your injectors and sensors.
Disconnect your electrical lines from your transmission, O2 sensor and transfer case.
I mentioned it earlier, but remove 3 screws that hold your fuel tank to the bed/ body. You can remvoe the lines at the tank, but I feel this is easier.
On a 4Runner you will have to go up between the body an frame and remove 2 bolts to get the fuel filler assembly out.
These are some steps that are different from pulling the motor. Im sure there are more steps but this will get you started in the right direction.
Here is a great place to disconnect your brake and clutch line. By the Passenger front tire.
Wiring harness with tranny and tcase conrectors.
wiring harness.
Steps without having to pulldrive train.
Disconnect steering linkage at gear box or firewall
6 bolts that hold the body on.
Wiring harness all the way to the tranny and lay it over the fender.
I would pull radiator for more clearance
Brake and clutch line behind right rear front tire
Ebrake at the crossmember
I would disconnect the fuel line from the fuel filter
Remove tranny and tcase sticks so they dont get damaged.
Disconnect wring harness under cab under passenger seat.
Front bumper for easier clearance, may not be needed though.
Speedometer cable
Throttle cable
Copied....
This is with motor and transmission already removed.
I have talked to a couple of other people on here about doing frame swap or body swaps. I have done two and tried to write out a nice way of doing this. I did the swaps before finding Yotatech and wish I would of taken pictures. I figured I would put this in my thread so if others do a search on it, it might make finding this thread easier and so I can call it up quick if I need it. I havent done a 4runner but the steps would be about the same. If you can pull a motor or tranny you can swap bodies/frames. It s very doable and nothing to be afraid of.
I did the 22re's. Apparently a 3.0 and 22res frame arent interchangeable without redoing the motor mounts. I am sure everythign here would apply to a 3.0, but I havent done this so will not say for sure. 84-88 Pickup frames and 89-95 frames are not interchange able from what I have been told.
On the 84-89 4runner behind the Drivers rear tire is a wire disconnect point, for the tailgate and lights that would make separating the wires for body removal. Im sure a 90-95 4Runner would be the same, but I havent done one so cant say for sure.
Fierohinks has some pic in his thread for some ideas and what things will look like. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-228184/
Dutchbelly has some good pics of doing a Frame swap...... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...ild-up-234352/
I didnt have a lift, so if you were going to leave the drive train in, there are some steps that would be different and I will try and write them up as best as I can at a later time.
First I center the Steering Wheel and remove the motor and tranny. If you have a lift and can get the body high enough this would really help, but this is how I have to do this.
Getting the Steering Wheel and wheels straight just makes it alot easier for later. When I take the cab off and put it back on is when I install and remove the Steering Rod is probably the most hardest. You may find another way, but this works for me.
Then on the frame by the right front tire you have 2 brake lines to disconnect. This is the best place to do it as it keeps the lines on the cab intact and the frame lines will stay intact. This will take care of your brake issues. ( Pic at bottom)
I then disconnect the Wiring harness under the Passenger side seat and this will let the cab come off with out any problems other than you front blinkers and I take the Front Bumper off just so I dont have to lift the cab so high. Leave the wiring harness to the Tail lights/ Fuel Pump on the back half of the frame til later. You can get it when you take the bed off. All of your electrical and computer wires will come with the cab. This is set up quite nice. Just mark all of your wires and such when you pull your motor. When you pull your motor, you will have taken care of alot of other steps like fuel lines.
You have 6 bolts that hold the cab to the frame. The cab and front end come off in one piece. I already have the hood off. I leave fenders, doors, and interior in. 2 bolts by the Radiator, 2 bolts behind the front tires, and 2 bolts toward the rear of the cab is all that hold the cab to the frame. You can tell them as they sit on the outside of the frame and have rubber bushings. You may have to lift your carpet to hold them with wrench to take the nut off.
You have 8-10 bolts that hold the bed on. They have a tab that sticks in the bed so you dont have to have a wrench to hold the top. You should take some PB Blaster a nite or two ahead of time before you do this as most or all of the bolts will break. They are special so you will need to get some from Toyota or the salvage. This is a good time to remove the 3 screws that hold your gas tank fill tube to the bed or body of a 4Runner. Also I have had problems of these nuts backing off when I have had a bed bolt off before so I would suggest using locktite. I use 4 concrete blocks and set the bed on these with the floor of the bed on the blocks so I dont have to worry about damaging the bed sides.
Once all of this is done, I use some concrete blocks and 4x4 wood to support the cab. If your rocker panels are in good shape you can rest it on the wood. If not you might want to support it using blocks of wood between the 4x4 and floor. I set the concrete blocks about a foot from the cab to clear the front tires. This way could be a little unstable so be careful or you might have some other way of doing this. Here is whereI get 3 other guys to help lift the cab. 2 lifting and 2 setting up the stand for the cab. The back is heavy, but the front is light. I go about a foot high off of the frame for everything to clear, but work the frame out slowly and make sure it is high enough. I back the frame out as the front part of the frame is lower than the back part.
I get the new frame with axles in them or you can just put yours in. Put the wiring harness for the back part of the truck and fuel tank in and hopefully you will have brake lines and fuel lines already on or you will get to do that too. Try and get a frame with this stuff already on It will save you a lot of time. Put your exhaust in before you move the new frame under the cab.
Before I start all of this, I try to have the new frame prepped as far as I can. Without counting motor/tranny removal and having the frame ready. I have done this in about 20 total hours using basic tools in a weekend by myself except lifting the cab and body. Cutting torch for bolts, air tools, and a lift would be soooo nice. If you can get the body high enough it would make swapping alot easier, but I dont have access to a lift so this is how I do it. The first time I did this I was intimidated, but by the time I had the old frame out I wasnt in the least bit concerened. If you can pull a motor and tranny out, you wont have any problems. You will be quite surprised when you do it. Any questions that come up, feel free to ask.
If you are going to use a lift and keep the drive train in you will need to
Disconnect your fuel line from fuel filter.
Remove your electrical lines from your injectors and sensors.
Disconnect your electrical lines from your transmission, O2 sensor and transfer case.
I mentioned it earlier, but remove 3 screws that hold your fuel tank to the bed/ body. You can remvoe the lines at the tank, but I feel this is easier.
On a 4Runner you will have to go up between the body an frame and remove 2 bolts to get the fuel filler assembly out.
These are some steps that are different from pulling the motor. Im sure there are more steps but this will get you started in the right direction.
Here is a great place to disconnect your brake and clutch line. By the Passenger front tire.
Wiring harness with tranny and tcase conrectors.
wiring harness.
Steps without having to pulldrive train.
Disconnect steering linkage at gear box or firewall
6 bolts that hold the body on.
Wiring harness all the way to the tranny and lay it over the fender.
I would pull radiator for more clearance
Brake and clutch line behind right rear front tire
Ebrake at the crossmember
I would disconnect the fuel line from the fuel filter
Remove tranny and tcase sticks so they dont get damaged.
Disconnect wring harness under cab under passenger seat.
Front bumper for easier clearance, may not be needed though.
Speedometer cable
Throttle cable
Last edited by Terrys87; 11-18-2013 at 12:35 AM.
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11-18-2013, 04:56 AM
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I have seen threads on pirate 4x4 about converting 2wd pickups to 4wd and actually according to those guys the 2wd frame is preferred for SAS-ing because IIRC the frame has more clearance for uptravel above the axle. This allows u to keep the truck lower and have the same amouny of uptravel as a 4wd fame SASed. I tried finding a link for u but since I'm not signed up over there I'm not allowed to do searches. Hope this helps with ur decision.
11-18-2013, 05:03 AM
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you guys are gods among men, wyoming9 I rebuilt the engine about a year ago, new pistons timing chain, seals the works original rods and crank. de smoged the engine and put a weber on it runs like a champ I think I am going to put a cam in it when I get home. I am pretty experienced with Toyotas I work on 09 Hilux's out here in Africa with the 3d diesel engine great little trucks. My daily driver in the states is a 87 Porsche 944 that I have restored
11-18-2013, 01:32 PM
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Terry, I've seen that copy/paste enough times to memorize it now. Haha
To the OP, if 4x4 is the only option for this truck, I'd suggest/back up others' suggestions for SASing the 2wd frame. If you're converting to 4x4, it's gonna cost a good amount of coin, anyways, so you may as well go with the SFA.
Whatever you end up doing, PLEASE post it up! Sure to be an awesome build.
To the OP, if 4x4 is the only option for this truck, I'd suggest/back up others' suggestions for SASing the 2wd frame. If you're converting to 4x4, it's gonna cost a good amount of coin, anyways, so you may as well go with the SFA.
Whatever you end up doing, PLEASE post it up! Sure to be an awesome build.
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