LittleRedDevil

Hey guys, after a TON of research and reading for hours on end, scouring the internet and especially Yotatech, I decided that I had the knowledge to strip down my truck. A few weeks ago I learned that I had a burned valve in my sixth cylinder and didn't want to dish out the money to have my local "Stealership" tear her down. Along with the burned valve I knew that my valve gaskets and front crankshaft seal were leaking oil.

MY TRUCK



So I ended up ordering:

-Head Gasket Set (ISHINO)
-Timing Belt (MBL)
-Timing Idler Pulley #1 and Tensioner Spring (NSK)
-Timing Idler Pulley #2 (KOYO)
-Water Pump (AISIN)
-Thermostat (KUZEH)
-PCV Valve (NOVO)
-Front Crankshaft Seal (THO)
-All New Belts (BANDO)

Last night I parked the truck in my brothers garage and we dove in, and after a long night, a few pairs of gloves, a few beer, sweat, a little blood, ingenuity, swearing and lots of pictures, we uncovered the heads. And then after a battle all in itself we got those out! Today I brought the heads to an engine rebuilder and tomorrow I should know what is next to do to the heads and valves.

I'll post some pictures of the tear down, hope they help someone, and they are just fun to look at! Enjoy.

Yotaguy0001

Sweet! Doing the same thing myself on my 92 4runner. Working on a exhaust crossover elimination mod. What a piss poor design that was.

92dlxman

wow. I dont have a 3.0 nor want one, and for some reason i really appreciate this thread.. .. . .that looks like a lot of work. keep postin man, not enough people have the cajones to do this with that motor. i see threads of people scared of the timing cover. nice work!

LittleRedDevil

YEA! ha ha, Thanks. Luckily I have an AWESOME big brother who loves doing this stuff. He took on one side and I took the other and it really just.. fell apart! As for the crossover pipe elimination, I would LOVE to throw some headers on the truck and now would be the time.. but I wouldn't know where to get them, I mean, I live in SASKATCHEWAN! There should be more pictures soon, I will be cleaning up the block and pistons, putting in the water pump and thermostat, crankshaft seal and the pulleys.

Oh and if anyone needs any pictures I took a load of them on teardown, just ask.

LittleRedDevil

Hey! The shop called me back today and I have one burned valve(exhaust #6) and some slight head warpage, They are going to resurface the heads, put in a new valve, new seals, and do a cleaning. Might be good for tomorrow. Today I cleaned the pistons and block, exhaust manifolds, intake manifold, and where the water pump will go. Oh and I tried getting the d*mn crank shaft timing pulley off with no luck, I'll have another go at her tomorrow.

From The Front


Left Side


Right Side


A Few Of The Nasty Intake





P.S hey when you American guys say that you have XXX so many "miles" on your vehicle do you actually mean miles or kilometres?!

My engine is at 304,000 Kilometres.

92 TOY

nice pics.

and I will say "miles".

just rebuilt a 3vze (mostly). headers should be the Doug Thorley 505c type. will run somewhere around $600 US dollars. can order from Summit. may eliminate the future cooked valve.

can i suggest.....pull the motor...do the rear main....get rid of that exhaust. so much easier to do on a stand.

otherwise, good work. nice layout of the parts. my son's thread (linked in my sig) has his build.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

My guess is that since we don't use the metric system for much we are talking miles on the odometer..so multiPly everything mileagewise x 1.6


Nice job on the teardown

cjf351

Great thread!! Thank you for the fantastic pictures.

I agree with 92TOY that you should pull the engine. You are so close right now anyway, it would just be a few more bolts.

I fear that my 3vze has the same problem, but I am going to drive it until it will no longer go and then do a 3.4 swap. I took my intake off this spring to replace the valve cover gaskets but decided at that point that I would never invest any more time or money into that engine.

WORMS

I would love to do a 3.4 swap, but at the moment I need a money tree to make it happen I am looking to replace the 3.slow that was in my rig for now, and do the 3.4 swap at a later date.

92dlxman

how did you get your pistons so clean? also, might wanna ask how much material they removed from the head. possible increase in compression ratio

rworegon

LittleRedDevil, do yourself a favor and add a knock sensor wire to your new parts list. That wire down there in the V of the block gets very brittle and has caused many grief after a headgasket repair. Most dealers replace the wire each time the heads are pulled off.

You may also want to send your fuel injectors out to a place to be cleaned. Also, consider replacing any rubber hoses that are now accessible but will be a PITA to change once the engine is back together.

Looking good so far!

LittleRedDevil

92dlxman, I used carb cleaner, synthetic steel wool, and a razor blade. And a lot elbow grease. Good thinking on the compression, I don't remember the numbers but i'm sure they said it wasn't too far out.

rworegon, Funny you say that, I called the "stealer" today and they wanted $340 dollars for an engine knock sensor, But if I can just replace the wire then that'd be ok. I don't know exactly how to do that though. You got any ideas or should I scour the forum? I was just cleaning the intake plenum and got a look at the injectors, I'll phone around tomorrow and try to find a place that does injector cleaning.

Oh so for the last two fricken days I have been trying to get my crankshaft timing gear off and cannot for the life of me. I have sprayed the shaft with penetrant, actually two kinds and have wrenched and pried at it with no movement. I feel like wrecking it and just buying a new one.

Thats about it, I need to find out how to remove the crankshaft timing gear so I can replace the seal and throw on the front end and wait for my heads to come back. I'll search for injector cleaning and go through my hoses.

My intake plenum

What I got out of it

PowerstrokeJoe

I used 2 long screw drivers and drove them between the oil pump housing and the pulley. It was a bit un orthodox but it did break free. Just be careful and watch that you don't tear up the housing.

Schism64

Man, its like deja vu, thats what I did all summer, elbow deep in 3.slow grease and corrosion. I had a helluva time getting the corrosion off the intake. I swear I spent more
time wire wheeling parts then actually fixing anything.

Schism64

BTW, after the crank bolt came off on mine, the crank gear popped right off with a gear puller. Took no effort whatsoever. Is the key warped or bent?

rworegon

A puller set like this will make getting the crank timing gear off much easier assuming it has holes to thread the bolts into which yours appears to not have:
http://www.harborfreight.com/46-piec...set-37824.html

Thankfully, the 5VZ-FE crank timing gear has holes and threads already in it.

You can just replace the knock sensor wire.... someone more familiar with the 3VZE may have the part number for you. My guess is 82219-89103


http://www.toyotapartseast.com/Page_...3514,3517,3518

LittleRedDevil

GOOD news and BAD news!

Good news first, I phoned the shop today and my heads were ready! I picked them up and they look amazing, I can't wait to throw them back on and just be done with it. I'm really hoping that it adds a bit of power to the engine, and higher gas mileage would be a nice little bonus too. You know, without the 45 PSI in the sixth cylinder and valve open all the time I might end up liking this truck I've only owned it for a little over a month now and have had the valve trouble since I bought it so i'm excited to see what it is like driving a healthy SR5

I took apart the rest of the plenum today and cleaned it up a bit, put new seals on the injectors and sprayed out the fuel lines. Then I wrestled with that D*MN crankshaft gear. Man I sprayed half a can of penetrant on it, in it, around it, in the keyhole, against the oil pump, and it hasn't budged. I sprayed it down good last night and today, nothing, no movement at all. It has really taken all my strength not to bust the ˟˟˟˟˟ing thing to bits. I pried and pried and sprayed and sprayed and pried some more. Nothing. No such luck. I ran out of patience and now... I resort to drilling and tapping. That d*mn gear has been the worst experience and "hardest" part of this whole project so far.

So that will be tomorrow. Friday here is a holiday and so is Monday. So i'm kind of thinking I won't be able to track down an engine knock sensor wire. I WILL try but I am kind of running out of time. I really am not that keen on putting it back together without a new sensor wire but.. well I might have to chance it. Eh ˟˟˟˟˟ it. What am I talking about? It's a Toyota, nothing goes wrong on toyota's, especially a ten dollar wire that would be a PITA to change once it's all back together. Oh well. I've taken chances, my whole life has been a gamble, d*mnit, take the chance. Buy the Ticket, Take the Ride.

Night Folks.


Intake Plenum Clean VS Dirty




Shiny!!


Source of all that is evil.

Schism64

OK, the crank gear. Usually not a big issue, slides on and off the crank quite easily. Take a deep, calming breath...be one with the crank gear, once that is done, go get a gear puller. Make sure the crank and key are clear of as much gunk and surface rust as possible, then use the da*n gear puller. You are going to kill yourself drilling it, or you will break the oil pump trying to pry it off. Sometimes the easiest thing to do is follow the directions.

LittleRedDevil

Sorry Schism64 you got to me too late I just drilled and tapped her. You know it wasn't that bad, if my drill had charged batteries it wouldn't have taken that long. I spent way less time drilling and tapping then spraying and prying. Wait till you see the pictures you will understand.

So yea today I drilled and tapped the crankshaft gear, starting with a smaller bit and then using the correct size. Tapped the hole with a 1/4-20, found some long bolts and washers and tugged the gear off. Note: I drilled holes on both sides of the key to try to keep the gear straight as I pulled it off.

Here's some pictures.

This is before I started pulling. Just threaded the bolts into the crank gear.


Almost off, I tried prying it the FSM way while the gear was half way off the crankshaft and it still wouldn't budge.


I wonder why?!?!?




My tools


Straight on the gear


Shaft cleaned and without the seal


New seal


Gear back on and new water pump and thermostat

rworegon

Fighting rust is no fun. Nice progress!