rainman88

How do i get the crankshaft gear off,do i remove the key first,if so how is that done,or does the gear slide over the key?

MudHippy

Got FSM? http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

rainman88

Thanks mudhippy,much appreciated.

scope103

It slides over the key (using the method in the FSM). But I'm pretty sure it is a Woodruff key, which means the shaft side is an arc, not straight. So if the key starts to move out while you're pulling the gear, it will rotate and jam. Then you just need to GENTLY tap the key back in so that its gear-side is parallel to the direction you are pulling.

rainman88

ok folks whats the secret to getting the timing belt on?every time i think i have it,one of the gears are one notch off or one side is slack so it doesn't go on correctly.could it be because the belt is stretched? any suggestions?secrets?tricks?magic spells?

phildelfino

It's done with patience. I had to do mine 3 times to keep all the marks where they should of been. Mine kept going to the right as you look at the front of the motor.

Here's a good write-up on the topic and the one that I followed.

Good luck.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-183911/

sb5walker

Removing that gear is fairly easy on some motors, but on others it can be a challenge (understatement). Spray the joint between the shaft and gear with PB Blaster, and allow to soak overnight if possible. If not, at least give it an hour or two. The key to removing the gear is to pry on both sides evenly. If you pry just one side, the gear gets cocked and locks up. You can't pry too hard because you might damage the soft aluminum oil pump behind it.

If you can't get the gear off, you may have to do what I eventually had to do on mine. It was well frozen and just would not come off. I had to drill two holes at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions and tap them. (I used a cobalt bit and stopped frequently to pour oil on the end.) Then I screwed in two threaded stocks and used a puller. That did the trick. Put a mark of tape around the drill bit to make sure you don't drill all the way through the gear and into the seal. (I drilled holes sized for 5mm threaded stock, but the force required was so much that if I had to do it over I'd use 6mm.)

When you mount the seal, be sure to grease it (of course) and you can use the gear to press it most of the way seated. I used a socket extension and small hammer to gently tap around the seal to seat it fully. Use the flat, top, female end of the extension against the seal, not the rounded lower part that might dent the seal.

If the gear and shaft have some rust and corrosion, clean it up with naval jelly, rinse well, then smooth the surfaces with very fine wet-or-dry sandpaper, wipe out with a damp rag, and use a small amount of anti-seize compound, wiped well onto both surfaces.

---

The timing marks on the belt are for the initial line-up only. When you rotate the motor, the marks travel. That's normal.

I recommend following the factory manual but be aware you do NOT have to remove the cam pulleys to change the timing belt. The fsm is confusing on that point. I find this technique works well for mounting the belt: position the driver side cam pulley exactly on the mark. Position the passenger cam pulley a half tooth clockwise of the mark (as viewed from the front of the vehicle looking back). Position the crankshaft pulley a half tooth counter-clockwise. If the motor is an 88 to 91 (old style without a tensioner), mount the lower idler pulley and spring (acts as a tensioner) but tighten it as much out of the way as possible (against the tension of the spring).

Then place belt around driver cam pulley (if using a toyota belt there will be timing marks on the belt). Then route belt under upper idler and around passenger cam pulley. Then position passenger cam pulley exactly on the mark - the belt should now have no slackness between the cam pulleys. Route belt around water pump pulley and then around crankshaft pulley. Position crankshaft pulley exactly on mark - there should now be no slackness between driver cam, water pump and crank pulley. Route belt around lower idler.

For the 92-95 motors with a tensioner, follow fsm procedure for tensioning belt. To tension the belt on the earlier design, loosen mounting bolt of the lower idler (tensioner) so pulley can press against belt, smoothly rotate crankshaft two full revolutions clockwise (viewed from front looking back) TDC to TDC so the spring can tension belt, then torque lower idler to 27 ft lbs, leaving spring in place. Check that the marks on both cam pulleys align with the marks on the backplate. On my veezy, the cam marks do not exactly align with the backplate marks when crank at TDC, but when in the right position the marked cam tooth is closer to the backplate mark than any other tooth is. And, as mentioned, the marks on the belt will have traveled.

rainman88

http://img715.imageshack.us/slidesho...687968oak.smil

thanks for all the help i did get it on.now how bout a suggestion on holding the crank still while i tighten the bolt.anybody want to trade for a 86 or older runner 22r w/carb?

learning how to do the pic thing will get better ones up later.

sb5walker

https://www.yotatech.com/51094700-post10.html
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...e-tool-191312/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...lt-job-122420/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-tool-186081/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ol-sst-161133/

rainman88

thanks walker.

rainman88

thanks to all of you for the info.its coming together just not at light speed.I have another question for you 3.0 heads.why is there sludgey gunkie crap in my intake.this is the first injected motor i have disassembled,and yes im over 50.im over the 2 piece intake but not this tar like crap in it.obviously its oil residue and i'll probably figure it out eventually but you guys are so much faster.what do i replace to prevent this?

sb5walker

That gunk is normal for the motor, at least SOME gunk can be expected.

It's mainly from the pcv venting some atomized oil together with the blow-by. And EGR adds some gunk too.

Worn rings and valve seals are probably the main culprits, and pcv valve might be contributing. Can't do much with the rings without a rebuild, but using a high mileage oil should tighten up the valve seals some (if you're not already using it). A thicker oil might slow down the blow-by a little bit. So I'd recommend giving Valvoline MaxLife 10W-40 a try. It's an excellent semi-synthetic oil that gives great UOAs over on bobistheoilguy. I used it last summer and it cut my front and rear main seal leaks down to essentially nothing.

A partially clogged pcv valve will cause more oil to squirt out through the pcv, so, as difficult and annoying as the job is, you might replace that (and the grommet which is probably steel-hard).

You'll still get gunk in the intake but it might lessen a little bit.

EDIT: Short of replacing the pcv valve, next time you change the oil you might first try to clean the valve with some carb cleaner (or Seafoam). Follow the hose from the valve (on passenger valve cover under the plenum) to it's attachment on the side of the plenum. Pull it off the plenum and spray some carb cleaner down the hose. Let it sit a few minutes, then cover the end of the hose with a rag and route it lower than the valve cover to drain out the dirty carb cleaner. Then lift it up again and repeat the cleaning cycle a couple more times. Definitely change the oil afterward, since some carb cleaner probably got into the oil. Seafoam won't work as quickly - you would need to leave it in there for maybe an hour instead of minutes, but it would be less likely to soften and damage the pcv hose.

92 TOY

subscribed.....going to be doing this soon.

sb5walker

FINALLY found an earlier posting on cleaning the pcv valve. Was over on TN, was the problem:

from: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...46#post3464946

rainman88

thanks for all the help guys.i got the dang thing back together triple checked the timing gears/crank now i cant seem to get it to fire.does anyone know where i can get dynamite?or does anyone know a person in north ga.,near atl. that would drop a new motor in this thing for a reasonable price.or will a 2jz fit this thing?

sb5walker

Did you reattach the engine grounds?

You should be able to track down WHY it's not firing, whether no spark, no fuel pressure, injectors not firing, or cam or ignition timing.

To start, make sure +B in the check connector and the positive terminal of the coil are hot when ignition is on. Jump +B to FP in the check connector, which will hot-wire the fuel pump and see if that helps. Check for spark. Check compression to verify valve timing.

rainman88

thanks for the quick reply walker,im getting fuel to the rails,the ground on the intake i replaced,i didnt remove any other type of wiring. guess it could be the timing.uhggg

sb5walker

If you have a spare spark plug, you can pull one of the plug wires, stick the spare plug into it, and set it where the base of the plug contacts ground. Have a helper turn it over and you should see the spark.

Easiest way to tell if the injectors are firing is to place the metal rod of a mechanics stethoscope against the body of the injector. If it's firing you'll hear the clicks loud and clear. Mechanics stethoscopes are cheap and should be available at any discount auto parts place.

rainman88

i'll do that stethoscope thing,i just had my son put his tongue in the wire,its getting spark but he cant get his hair to lay down for some reason.

sb5walker