'87 PS Pump Leak Somewhere
04-17-2017, 09:53 AM
#1
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'87 PS Pump Leak Somewhere
Hi, I have a somewhat slow leak in my '87s PS pump I just got from TX. Pics below. Think it is a pump/gearbox issue or one of the lines?
04-17-2017, 10:11 AM
#2
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All your pictures are of the gearbox, not the pump. The pump is mounted on the engine with a pulley on the front. In my experience the input seal goes bad before the sector shaft seal (output seal or the seal above the pitman arm). It is possible that the lines are leaking where they connect to the gearbox but that is less likely, those flared fittings are a good type of connection. I would suggest spraying the whole thing down with some brake parts cleaner to get rid of the mess then drive around and check it often to see where the oil starts coming out of.
04-17-2017, 11:14 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
All your pictures are of the gearbox, not the pump. The pump is mounted on the engine with a pulley on the front. In my experience the input seal goes bad before the sector shaft seal (output seal or the seal above the pitman arm). It is possible that the lines are leaking where they connect to the gearbox but that is less likely, those flared fittings are a good type of connection. I would suggest spraying the whole thing down with some brake parts cleaner to get rid of the mess then drive around and check it often to see where the oil starts coming out of.
04-18-2017, 06:29 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
All your pictures are of the gearbox, not the pump. The pump is mounted on the engine with a pulley on the front. In my experience the input seal goes bad before the sector shaft seal (output seal or the seal above the pitman arm). It is possible that the lines are leaking where they connect to the gearbox but that is less likely, those flared fittings are a good type of connection. I would suggest spraying the whole thing down with some brake parts cleaner to get rid of the mess then drive around and check it often to see where the oil starts coming out of.
if not, I can jack it up this weekend and turn the wheels while watching to see if I can hone in more.
Any ideas based on these these new pics?
04-18-2017, 09:46 PM
#6
Registered User
It's the input seal. Look at your second picture. Leaking at the back, running down the gearbox, and finding it's way down toward the pitman arm. If it were leaking at the output seal, the oil would run down the splines and you would see your drip on the pitman arm and not the gearbox housing. You can even see a drip at the front of the gearbox in that picture.
04-19-2017, 06:24 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
It's the input seal. Look at your second picture. Leaking at the back, running down the gearbox, and finding it's way down toward the pitman arm. If it were leaking at the output seal, the oil would run down the splines and you would see your drip on the pitman arm and not the gearbox housing. You can even see a drip at the front of the gearbox in that picture.
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05-09-2017, 07:02 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
Help?
Alright, 4 bolts...2 lines... and 4hrs later and I'm stuck.
Here's what I've done:
1) Removed 4 Bolts from control valve assembly - easy
2) Tried to remove two PS fittings - impossible with a wrench. Had to go buy a 17mm crows foot wrench and use my 1/2" breaker bar and lots of PB Blaster. Regardless, 1.5 hrs later and the fittings are off
3) Tried to pull the control valve assembly off - no way its sliding off the shaft
4) Loosened steering shaft at firewall to create room - still nowhere close to enough space to pull control valve assembly off the shaft
5) Loosened two bolts in the middle of the steering shaft with the two pongs - now its loose
But the control valve assembly still won't come off. Pic below.
Four questions:
1) How do I get this off? Is there a hidden c-clip in there? Or is brute force the answer?
2) Do I need to be marking the position of any of these shafts or will lining the steerjng wheel back up be easy later? Doubt marking position makes sense since the wheels are on the ground and the steering wheel is straight (with everything disconnected in-between), but wanted to make sure.
3) Do I need to somehow drain all PS fluid with engine on to make sure it is all out? I read something about running the engine and disconnecting the return line from reservoir to fully drain system?
4) Once I get it all back together, how do I bleed the PS system?
Help?
Here's what I've done:
1) Removed 4 Bolts from control valve assembly - easy
2) Tried to remove two PS fittings - impossible with a wrench. Had to go buy a 17mm crows foot wrench and use my 1/2" breaker bar and lots of PB Blaster. Regardless, 1.5 hrs later and the fittings are off
3) Tried to pull the control valve assembly off - no way its sliding off the shaft
4) Loosened steering shaft at firewall to create room - still nowhere close to enough space to pull control valve assembly off the shaft
5) Loosened two bolts in the middle of the steering shaft with the two pongs - now its loose
But the control valve assembly still won't come off. Pic below.
Four questions:
1) How do I get this off? Is there a hidden c-clip in there? Or is brute force the answer?
2) Do I need to be marking the position of any of these shafts or will lining the steerjng wheel back up be easy later? Doubt marking position makes sense since the wheels are on the ground and the steering wheel is straight (with everything disconnected in-between), but wanted to make sure.
3) Do I need to somehow drain all PS fluid with engine on to make sure it is all out? I read something about running the engine and disconnecting the return line from reservoir to fully drain system?
4) Once I get it all back together, how do I bleed the PS system?
Help?
Last edited by Charles4x4; 05-09-2017 at 09:38 AM.
05-09-2017, 12:25 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Per the FSM, looks like k need to mark and then disconnect the U Joint completely (it's probably rusted on) and then remove the lock nut and I should be able to see the o-ring where the leak is likely occurring.
Also, I do need to run engine to flush system. Then bleed the system per the FSM.
Also, I do need to run engine to flush system. Then bleed the system per the FSM.
05-09-2017, 07:37 PM
#14
Registered User
Your Advanced- 370025A number is NOT the correct seal, for sure. That number is for a much larger seal.
The NAPA-NOS7007 might be correct. I'll put the caliper to an early IFS box I've got apart tomorrow. I could use one or two of these seals myself
Thanx Charles4x4
The NAPA-NOS7007 might be correct. I'll put the caliper to an early IFS box I've got apart tomorrow. I could use one or two of these seals myself
Thanx Charles4x4
05-10-2017, 04:51 AM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Good to know. Napa had the measurements on NOS7007 if needed. I'm going to order the Napa one today (3-days shipping).
