87 4Runner starts then dies...
#1
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87 4Runner starts then dies...
Two days after I replaced the clutch, she was hard to start when I left for lunch. Was turning over but didn't want to start. She eventually started and I drove around fine for the rest of the day. The next day after work she had a hard time starting (turning over fine) then after I got her started, the engine died about a mile down the road. The battery had a charge. I towed her back to work and tried a few things:
I shot starter fluid into the throttle body to see if it might be the fuel pump but no luck. I cracked open the cold start injector and had someone turn it over. Had plenty of gas shoot out. Then I jumped the Fp - B+ diagnostic and heard the fuel pump turn on. So I don't think it's the FP.
I put an inline spark plug tester on 3 of the cables and I'm getting good spark. So I think the ignitor/coil is good.
I tested my Air Flow Meter with an ohmmeter and it appeared to test out fine but just in case, I bought another, used AFM, tested out good, replaced mine, and I get the exact same result.
I replaced the cap and rotor.
I also jumped another diagnostic and she threw a code 11. I believe that's a TPS or ECU. I'm going to check that again since i've cleared the code and I'll figure out how to test my TPS and see what results I get.
What she does is this: with the first turnover, she starts for a second then dies immediately. Then after that she just turns over. Nothing I have done above has affected the issue at all.
I'm wondering if it's timing (distributor?), fuel injectors, TPS, or ECU or…?
I shot starter fluid into the throttle body to see if it might be the fuel pump but no luck. I cracked open the cold start injector and had someone turn it over. Had plenty of gas shoot out. Then I jumped the Fp - B+ diagnostic and heard the fuel pump turn on. So I don't think it's the FP.
I put an inline spark plug tester on 3 of the cables and I'm getting good spark. So I think the ignitor/coil is good.
I tested my Air Flow Meter with an ohmmeter and it appeared to test out fine but just in case, I bought another, used AFM, tested out good, replaced mine, and I get the exact same result.
I replaced the cap and rotor.
I also jumped another diagnostic and she threw a code 11. I believe that's a TPS or ECU. I'm going to check that again since i've cleared the code and I'll figure out how to test my TPS and see what results I get.
What she does is this: with the first turnover, she starts for a second then dies immediately. Then after that she just turns over. Nothing I have done above has affected the issue at all.
I'm wondering if it's timing (distributor?), fuel injectors, TPS, or ECU or…?
#2
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Was it running strange before? My truck has had the same problem. Tomorrow I am cleaning throttle body and putting in a new tps. I have a 86 so my code I got was code 4 which is the tps before I had problems with starting it would only happen on the freeway at higher speeds (40 and up) and it would kinda randomly hesitate so we will see what happens with the new tps
#3
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Mine had same issue , found out the fuel sensor went to crap on me and got a new one at oreilys for $30 ish fixed it right up old one was completely black changed the bolts too on it, mine is right by the exhaust mainifoldythingy
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Firefinder.. I wonder if your fuel filter is clogged. Gets just enough to start and then runs out of fuel.
punks is 4x4... Are all of your vacuum lines correct? I have seen several trucks not routed correctly and it will give all kinds of problems. When was last good tune up with fuel and air filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor? If you flushed the coolant, you will need to burp the system. I raise my front end as high as I can and let it idle with the radiator cap off and let the thermostat cycle 3 or 4 times to get air out of the system.
abuvdeath.. I am not understanding which part you are talking about but the exhaust. The O2 sensor?
punks is 4x4... Are all of your vacuum lines correct? I have seen several trucks not routed correctly and it will give all kinds of problems. When was last good tune up with fuel and air filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor? If you flushed the coolant, you will need to burp the system. I raise my front end as high as I can and let it idle with the radiator cap off and let the thermostat cycle 3 or 4 times to get air out of the system.
abuvdeath.. I am not understanding which part you are talking about but the exhaust. The O2 sensor?
#6
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I will double check all my vaccum lines today I need a better chart then the one thats in the Chilton book. I just replaced one I'll go through and disconnect and reconnect check for dry cracked hoses. So burping the coolant? I'm gonna drain it and disconnect some stuff to take the throttle body off. Is there a coolant drain plug anywhere on the block or anywhere other then the drain on the radiator. I have the stock red Toyota coolant should I use the green stuff? That's what was in there when I got it I just thought going back to all stock fluids and plugs wire etcetera would be better?. I did the plugs about let's the 2k ago wires are new haven't done caps or rotors. Changed tranny fluid and diffs.
So burping - lift front end remove radiator cap and let idle u said go let the thermostat to go through a couple cycles?
To my knowledge the thermostat just opens and closes according to the temp of the fluid right? So how would I cycle it if it's just idling? Thanks Terrys87
So burping - lift front end remove radiator cap and let idle u said go let the thermostat to go through a couple cycles?
To my knowledge the thermostat just opens and closes according to the temp of the fluid right? So how would I cycle it if it's just idling? Thanks Terrys87
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#8
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Awesome thank you. Quick question before I take my throttle body off any other gaskets or anything that is unusable after disconnecting the throttle body besides the main gasket... And should I use the Toyota silicone or will a Napa gasket be fine
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