When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So luckily my machine shop in town had a spare one lying around so i guess i lucked out. he had one lying around for 150$ so here goes. My turbo has been causing the problems all along. thank you. I know you were beating a dead horse but with how much a turbo is I really didn't want it to be that. but i guess i got lucky or who knows maybe it'll blow up in 100 miles(knocking on wood). oh well wish me luck thanks.
So luckily my machine shop in town had a spare one lying around so i guess i lucked out. he had one lying around for 150$ so here goes. My turbo has been causing the problems all along. thank you. I know you were beating a dead horse but with how much a turbo is I really didn't want it to be that. but i guess i got lucky or who knows maybe it'll blow up in 100 miles(knocking on wood). oh well wish me luck thanks.
dont forget you need to inspect the rod bearings!
Water + oil, this the white fluid you see flowing on machining equipment. Water to cool the tool, oil so chips do not stick to the tool bit...
You have a mad dwarf with a hammer in your oil pan..
So the machine shop had one lying around but it was worse than mine. I may have found another one that to be in good shape and it seems to work well I'll try to upload a video off them tonight thanks. I found it I believe it's original and I'm hoping its ok to put in to my truck and opinions or things you noticed would be great
All in all 23 seconds of videos 7 seconds, 8 seconds, and 8 seconds I think
if anyone has seen these or knows anything could you tell me to purchase said turbo?
First off your finger tip wiggle isn't putting anywhere near the forces a shaft spinning tens of thousands of rpms will see..
I see impact damage of the compressor wheel, the aluminum spots showing where the rest of it is black with oil from the crank case vent.
I see a crack in the exhaust housing.
Will it work yes. It will probably even make decent boost. Should you pay more than 10$ probably not. Because it's going to grenade at some point and barf caste metal down your exhaust pipes ruining any catalytic converter or muffler in place at the time.
It's going to take a pro welder that welds cast metal day in and day out and a properly equipped shop to repair just the turbine housing. They must be slwowly preheated, welded with proper rod (high nickle, expensive), and allowed to slowly come back down to ambient temperature. I forget the temperature something along the lines or orange or dull red, so 700° or so. That several hours in the oven to preheat alone makes the eBay housing a money saver, and the "fixed" housing still has a very high rate of failure either during repair or at some random point. (You can't hear the crack form over the blast oven)
Here is what happens when that little crack opens up. Also worth mentioning you can not see all of the crack with the housing in place on the center housing. The crack between seven and eight is totally invisible from the outside when mounted and not blown out. You'll also need to open the waste gate to inspect for the cracks you can see radiating out above as they are totally covered by the flapper valve (penny). Oddly enough this turbo still spins up and rotates pretty freely, but has turbine damage (see the pin hole in the lowest blade at six o'clock) this causes it to wobble in the CHRA(center housing rotating assembly).
This first image shows the sort of scoring you are looking for. See the gouge in the carbon at about seven o'clock?
below are the sort of lateral force you need to subject it to. Heavy thumb pressure and it's still no where near a milligram spinning at 120k rpm.
So shove it lateral one way and eyeball the gap, shove it the opposite way and if it moves more than about half the gap it's likely to much. If you can make it impact the housing at any point it's beyond dead also. The actual radial spec is measured at the middle of the shaft via the oil holes and is some fraction of a millimeter, 0.4-0.8 something like that maybe even a tenth of that (0.08) I don't recall off hand..
That was a bit long winded.. bottom line if you want to offer them say 10¢ per pound you're still overpaying, I think AL is at 4.3¢ and steel even less.
It could work, at least long enough to realize you have rod knock (which you keep ignoring me telling you for some reason), but you risk the compressor shattering and tossing aluminum fragments down the intake tube through the head and into the block..
A drop in replacement turbo is going to run about 350-400$ give or take some shipping. That is broken down to a cheap clone for the chra and compressor, and the proper 4runner turbine housing you asked about above.
Due to the rattle sound your turbo started off with I expect the shaft is broken and it won't be rebuildible due to the chra section being wallowed out
i had a cracked turbo housing as welll. i dropped the money on an LCE GT25 swap kit and i think, after seeing the kit and what it contains, id piecemeal it together myself. I also own a mazdaspeed protege. they come stock with the GTR25. what id do is look for someone parting out one and grab the turbo. maybe a mazda recycler. buy or build an adapter plate for the turbo to manifold and turbo to intake. the rest of the kit is some tubes and fittings. you might even be able to get away with taking the first half of the stock downpipe(commonly referred to as an S pipe because of its shape) from the protege and making an adapter plate for the exhaust from there. the first bend in the S plate has an o2 sensor bung on it. only real parts needed that would be "custom" would be the oil drain tube from the turbo to the block.
So i feel stupid and didn't notice the crack in the exhaust housing. (stupid i know.) So the what is easiest turbo under 500$ because that is all the money I have. I am a okayish welder though not really confident in my welding skills. But i do have a complete shop I have access to a tig welder, and mig and a stick welder (I am most confident in stick but only just), and my truck is inside but is there any easy swap that i can put in my turbo's place. that i can do for cheap? I just want a reliable truck with stock boost and longevity I want reliable more than anything else. But I don't want to just drop in a 22re.
I thought i fixed the Rod knock.So i would like to think im a okay shade-tree mechanic I mean i have rebuilt a honda 350, worked on a ktm 620, repaired chevy 350 (I had that car for 2.5 years)repbuilt a 99 Chrysler that is the end of my experience besides whatever I have done on my 22rte, but I am no great mechanic. But that is close to 100% of my experience.
look into the CT26 swap from a supra. its is probably the easiest swap available, hands down. and theres a bunch of write ups on how to do it. you can reuse most of your stock stuff too.
or...you could always clean the turbo as well as you can, rebuild the center section and slap it back on. as weird as it sounds, that actually one of the better housings ive ever seen. i mean, hell, someone took a mig welder to mine before i got it and it still ran fine with just the faintest of white smoke. rebuild kits are about 100 IIRC.
Ct26 will give you tuning issues.
you also left off the required bigger injectors from that parts list..
Ct20 for an Lt motor, 186$ free shipping. Link
Ct20 truck turbine housing, $169 + 39 shipping. Link
total, 394$ + some scrap steel or a 1x1x1/4 3" from the hardware store (10-20$)
You can save maybe 10-20$ on the turbo from other eBay vendors.
You'll need to do some minor alterations to the compressor housing (from emusa) to get a good 90° angle on the waste gate actuator and add a support arm.
Other vendors might have a more compatible compressor housing but I can point you at one that is a drop in one, I expect they are all coming from the same Chinese foundry..
If you want to venture down the rebuilt route. My first suggestion is don't, the tools required to accurately measure the inner diameter of the CHRA will set you back big bucks. Please read and fully comprehend this whole post before you do anything detailed within!
If you choose a diy path. Start with cleaning up the compressor and turbine wheels such that you can mark the shaft and wheel (permanent marker) for re assembly. Remove the compressor and turbine housings. Clearly mark a line from the front to back ensuring you get the nut, the compressor and shaft. They are balanced on a component basis but best to get everything back the way it was originally.
Now you can loosen the shaft nut, take note it is a backwards thread (right to loosen, opposite of the normal rules) and requires an odd socket (my memory fails me, 12 point maybe).
Carefully remove the spring clip, it also requires a special heavy duty spring clip removal tool (in a pinch a ground down needle nose pliers will do but it won't be easy to remove and twice as hard to get back on).
Gently pry up and out the cover. Take reference images of the thrust assembly NOW. Now remove the thrust plate and the collar. Take more reference images NOW (no joke take lots)..
Now the shaft is ready to remove. You have to overcome the tension on the piston ring located below the oil shield on the turbine side. This can possibly destroy the CHRA and or the shaft! Press the shaft out the back side from the front side taking care not to bend or marr the shaft.
Remove the front side bearing, the spacer and the rear side bearing. Take extreme care to keep these in order and maintain the orientation. Wipe clean and place a marker point to locate the front side of each and which location they came out of, then stack them on a wooden dowel.
Now clean the center housing. Take extreme care not to scratch the bearing surfaces, you need to use nylon brushes. Ensure there are no dust or other debris left from cleaning.
Now it is inspection time.
The shaft needs to be absolutely smooth with no discoloration (bluing). Do not use anything other than solvent and a soft cotton rag to remove varnish or you risk scoring the shaft, if you scratch this it's going to need machined smooth or more likely replaced.
Next is the center housing. Inspect for scoring at the bearing surfaces. Inspect for cracks at the piston ring seat.
Now it is measuring time. You need to be very precise here. Very!
Below are standard size bearing data. Notice the tolerances are very tight... you can do the bearing OD and shaft with a good caliper, to get the bearing inner diameter (accurately) and the housing bearing seat requires (expensive) bore gauges..
STD/STD Bearing
MAX OUTER DIAMETER (mm) 15.9283
MIN OUTER DIAMETER (mm) 15.9156
MAX INNER DIAMETER (mm) 10.0330 0.395"
MIN INNER DIAMETER (mm) 10.0228
I don't have access to the available bearing sizes right now but they are limited. Off hand they are limited to five thousandths to twenty thousandths in increments of five and not available in all configurations. Most will require machine work to either the housing or shaft and in some cases both...
Now with your measurements in hand. Call up gpop-shop and see what parts they can supply..
So i was thinking, and is it such a bad idea to go with the speedyracer LT turbo and the truck housing from ebay, I can afford the year warranty so ill do that in hopes that i don't have to use it better to have it and not use it then not have it and need it, (knock on wood.) if itll work ill pull the trigger and see what happens when i get the parts in thank you for help in advance.
So i was thinking, and is it such a bad idea to go with the speedyracer LT turbo and the truck housing from ebay, I can afford the year warranty so ill do that in hopes that i don't have to use it better to have it and not use it then not have it and need it, (knock on wood.) if itll work ill pull the trigger and see what happens when i get the parts in thank you for help in advance.
I would say emusa is no worse than another random aftermarket clone found on ebay. Be it a garrett or other clone.. Reports say the quality used to be much worse, but at least they are shipped from a stateside warehouse and an American registered company.
I run the diesel one as is, the truck housings were not available. It has a smaller waste gate oriffice(about half the area of OEM) and points the exhaust downpipe at the wrong angle(requires a downpipe to be fabricated, or exhaust routes out the side).
I have no information on the extended warranty. Note you will be responsible for shipping fees both ways at an estimated cost of 25$+ each way.
Just for reference, or is that TMI.. some images of the waste gate oriffice, and the zoomie style exhaust of the diesel version.
So the diesel one works well for you? any problems beside the wastegate and the modification? (I am aware that i would need to pay 50$ or so for shipping with the extended warranties.)
Hopefully soon resembling a running car. Maybe thanks in advance
Codes 2 which I know how to fix that. But codes 10 and 11 are happening again. Every time i fix something something else goes bad. It's like a magicians handkerchief it never stops.
https://youtu.be/5Mo220mZ3g8
Codes 2 which I know how to fix that. But codes 10 and 11 are happening again. Every time i fix something something else goes bad. It's like a magicians handkerchief it never stops.
https://youtu.be/5Mo220mZ3g8
code 10 is a dirty ignition switch (plastic round box on the back of the key tumbler) or a wire fault.
Code 11 is AC on, or idle signal from tps not received. While in diagnostics mode. Verify the AC switch is out/off and the tps is adjusted to spec. Other wise it is another wire fault.
All 4 cylinders have 120 pressure and it looks like there were a few codes more when i started the truck today after fixing some stuff. all in all the codes are 2,3,7,8 10,11 the video is of the car starting after a few starts and its already warm but when its cold i don't need to hold down the gas because it runs for a few minutes okayish. I have cleaned the cold start fuel injector and it works great. I hadn't messed with the afm until the video at all. the tps is new and i tried put it in at what i believe is the correct spot I have never done the tps before but and plenty of fuel when i disconnected the cold start it shot fuel out because of the pressure it was several minutes after the car shut down so the line was holding pressure. I haven't reset the computer yet but will by the end of the night and try to see if that fixes anything. Thanks in advance. Also the exhaust is pushing greyish black smoke out and a lot of water, not enough to say head gasket, (but enough that it makes a small line on the floor.) I am wondering if it could be my fuel as that fuel has been in the tank since mid October. but gas lasts a year or so before going bad so i doubt it. any help would be appreciated. I always seem to jump into things with both feet without seeing the bottom and I am usually surprised when I am over my head.
just was talking to an old friend and he mentioned that with my symptoms he would say either a bad ecu or a bad wire to somewhere. ill know when i get back to from my trip in a couple of days.
02-14-2017, 07:06 PM
