kwitcherbeliakin

Ok. So I bought a new yota not long ago and here are some photos of the way its setup. The questions I have are - is it set up right and what am I missing??

Also - two charcoal canisters came in the truck but this is not the stock carb as far as I can tell and there is only one vacume inlet into it which is connected to the hoses leading back near the distributor.

But as you will see from below there is one vacume line going into the carb from over by the distributor... and I put the one from the charcoal canister in down below the carb where there was some vacume suction. Thoughts??









Also - I have heard that there are two charcoal canisters because one catches vapors off the bowl while the other catches them from the gas tank - do I still need two or just one? At the moment only one is hooked up and I don't see anywhere I could connect another anyway - also - usually there is a T to a VSV switch between the two canisters... is that important?

Sorry - lots of questions and no answers yet!

Are there any adjustements you would recommend or things anyone would like more photos of?? I am a little light headed after driving and figure I have a gas leak in there somewhere...

Oh and here is the EGR Valve - as you can tell it's not hooked up and even if it is the pipe coming out was cut so it just spits air... You'll notice that the vacume line on the top (which I added) still goes nowhere... and the one on the bottom was plugged with a screw...

Mr.Utah

Looks like a Weber carb with most vacuum lines missing, your EGR looks kike its still in place. If you need to pass emissions, it probably won't. It's hard enough to pass with stock components. However, I am no expert.

toyospearo

why tee off at the dizzy?? Does that add anything to the webber or performance???
anyone?

xxxtreme22r

All and I mean all of the vacuum lines on that except for the 1 vac line off the carb to the dissy, the PCV to manifold and the brake booster is not needed or even usable for that matter with the weber, this includes the EGR and charcoal canister(s). The hose on the front of the valve cover should go to under the air filter.

That setup on the dizzy is just plain wrong as well. One side advances timing the other side retards timing. The only one that should be hooked up on that is the one closest to the radiator. The other one gets either blocked off or just plain left alone.

ToyotaTeej84

All of my vac lines are blocked. Valve cover has breather filters. I am registered outside of DEQ. I still run a cat. converter cuz I love trees! XD

kwitcherbeliakin

So - it should look like this then:





And it passed emissions before I did anything to it - nothing hooked up at all and vacume leaks everywhere. The only thing that was hooked up was the one line from the valve cover to the carb.

It passed everything except the visual check. Then once I hooked up the charcoal canister so it would pass the visual check my numbers dropped a ton and passed beautifully. The guys at the emissions place were shocked!

So... basically I don't need all that junk then.

Ok - so when I do hook up my EGR valve to a vacume line with suction my EGR valve rattles and makes tons of noise - do I need it on there or is there a way I can remove it and replace it with something else?

And does two charcoal canisters matter - as in if I leave them both connected in sequence will they absorb twice as much evaporated gas and is that a good thing? If I leave them unhooked won't they simply leak fuel vapors over time?

Sorry so many questions but these are not areas of my truck I've played with much before.

toyospearo

Wait... That motor in the above picture with the Webber passed smog???

xxxtreme22r

The EGR no longer works because when installing the weber the pipe for it gets removed. That vacuum line on it is not needed either. Not sure what to say with the Char canisters. One of them is hooked to the gas tank vent. Not sure on the other one. I would just unhook all of them from their vacuum lines to be on the safe side so you don't have any vacuum leaks.

Your distributor vacuum is now correct. Just one thing, re-check the timing on it. It should be 0 degrees without vacuum supplied to it and at less then 800 RPM.

Toyospearo, your in cali, it's almost impossible to pass smog even with a new engine. haha. I have issues here in PA as well, no smog check just visual emissions which it will never pass because the EGR is deleted with the weber.

toyospearo

Thats kind of what I figured Xtreme!
I am about to fire up this 82 I am working on. Just waiting on the LCE header. The vacuum lines have been a nightmare. I hope I got them right.

kwitcherbeliakin

I hear you on the visual check which is funny because in order to pass I just hooked up the EGR to a vacume line below the carb that doesn't have any pressure... so it didn't matter.

Yeah - the timing is right on now. Before whenever I shut it off it would sputter and then surge and then die. Now is stops like it is supposed to. I knew the timing was off but never thought it was a vacume problem.

I think I'll leave the one charcoal canister hooked up - that way it doesn't spew gas fumes under the hood... at least for now.

arctic_hawk907

Hey yall, i hate to bring up an old thread buuuut, I have an 87 22r with a weber as well. It sputters when i shut it off and i thought this was a carb idle adjust issue. Could this be a vaccum thing? my front lower charcoal canister by the radiator isnt even installed. Any thoughts?

xxxtreme22r

Does it have the fuel shut-off solenoid on it. It should. It doesn't come with the kit. You have to buy it separately. That's probably what your problem is. If you do, do you have the fuel pressure regulated to 3-4 psi as your supposed to?

arctic_hawk907

No solenoid, that makes sense. I dont know the fuel pressure, im not sure of a manuel way to check it without installing a psi gauge.

arctic_hawk907

hey xxxtreme22r, i read some old posts and whaddya know, you explained it all. i will search harder next time. Im gonna get a fuel psi reg and a gauge and see if that helps. Thanks alot

xxxtreme22r

The solenoid would be the biggest deal. The dieseling down is mostly caused by that not being there.

arctic_hawk907

HAHAHA i do have the solenoid in it....funny thing is, it wasnt even plugged in. the wire was ziptied up next to the battery. Im still getting the psi reg and gauge for good measure. You freakin rock. I assume you have a gauge setup. what should i go for?,,,Mechanical or electrical. Im concerned about an outter gauge mount freezing up with that liquid inside there. it gets cold here

xxxtreme22r

If the wire wasn't hooked up and it was still running with it unattached then it's not working properly. It's designed to CLOSE when power is removed from it. I have the same issue with mine right now.