oldskoolstang

I was wondering if anyone on here had any experience with any aftermarket manifolds for the 22RE-T series of engines? My factory cast manifold has cracked right by the 4 bolt turbo flange and I would rather replace it with a good quality top-mount design manifold or consider making my own top-mount manifold if necessary. I have access to a good tig welder and tubing bender as well as precision cutting tools. I would probably just buy the bends and cut them to what I need so everything was mandrel bent instead of crimped.

I really do not like the location of the factory turbo on my truck and would prefer it to sit higher up. My factory CT20 turbo also needs the seals and bearings changed (so a total rebuilt) and instead of spending money doing that I'm thinking of just replacing it with a T3/T4 hybrid turbo and doing a front mount intercooler as well since it has no intercooler at all from the factory and I drive it in Georgia summer heat and can really notice it getting heat soaked.

Any input would be appreciated.

jsdesignturboyota

You could check out the steed speed manifold for about 600 bucks, or the LCE header for about 900. Both of these are top mounts, but if you are running a stock head don't run much more than 9-10 psi of boost. The stock heads tend to crack, also I strongly suggest ARP head studs.

swerks

You want A leen steed manifold its about the best for these engines, check out http://www.22rte-trucks.com I believe they are attempting a group buy.

greatskiiiier

how do you know its cracked? just visually looking at it? could you take a pic for me, i dont think mine is cracked (boost gauge and wideband seem to be working normal) and i cant see anything, but id like to know what to look for

BoostedRNR

I finally broke down and bought a steedspeed manifold. I wouldn't waste your money on anything else. I had a log style manifold and hated it.

oldskoolstang

I took a couple pictures, but you really could not see the crack at all with my point-and-shoot Olympus. It is cracked on the bottom side of the manifold between the two rear cylinders near where the turbo bolts up. I am not going to drive it anymore until I get it fixed and with the way work is going right now, that might take me a little while.

I already have head studs in the motor, but it is still a stock cylinder head. I really only want 8-10 lbs of boost out of whatever set-up I do. I'm not trying to make this thing fast in any way, I just want it to be able to turn some 35" TSL's with no problems.

I have a friend who has been making manifolds for turbo Hondas and other imports for over 10 years and he told me to buy the materials, give him $150 for his time, and he will make me one. I think this is the route I will be going. I also do not like the log style manifolds and want an individual runner type. I really don't think spending $600-$900 for one is feasible for me with this truck and this build. I've considered just trying to sell the entire motor/transmission set-up and swapping in a 5.3 V8 chevrolet I have, but this motor just runs so good I don't want the hassle of doing a swap.

oldskoolstang

I just got another stock manifold that is not cracked for practically nothing. Now I'm ordering my rebuilt kit for the factory CT20 turbo. It will work for a little while until I find something better.

Does anyone know what kind of oil pressure these motors are supposed to have?

Mine has around 25-30 psi idling warm and around 65 psi warm around 4500 rpm. I am wondering if that is the reason for the turbo seals not holding up......