Cowen88

Specs - stock 22r - stock aisin carburetor 5 speed manual transmission

I have to pump the gas pedal to get it started. Wants to die until warm. Takes 10 min to warm up. Have to give it gas until needle on the temperature gauge starts to rise above bottom line. Truck wants to die when I brake. Truck almost always starts bucking on deceleration while in gear.(engine braking) If I try to take of before it's warm it starts cutting out and bucking. And occasionally it does the same thing when I try to just start the engine and take off when the engine is already warm. (Ex. Running into the store)

Things I've done.

Rebuilt carburetor
new fuel tank /pickup lines /fuel level sender
fuel filter /fuel pump/ ethanol free gas /marvel mystery oil in gas /air filter / plugs / wires.

Can anyone give any advice on how to diagnose the problem??

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have a 22r set the same as yours and if one of the vacuum hoses comes off I get about all of the problems you are dealing with. I suspect a vacuum leak.

On the side of the Intake Manifold is a brass knob sticking out. There is about a 1/4 tube that gets disconnected on my 22r it will give me all kinds of problems. It will be a couple of days but I will try and post a picture of the one I am talking about when I get back home. Check your hoses real well.

fdp101452

You said you rebuilt the carb, is the accelerator pump working? It needs to supply gas just as the butterfly opens. If its a little late, then you will get stumbling. I know nothing about an Asin carb, never worked on one but I would think the principal would be the same as the Holleys and Rochcesters we used to run.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

If this hose is disconnected on mine it runs bad. The hose I was talking about earlier.

Cowen88

Thanks you for your help terry87. I will double check all of my vacuum line and repost results. Thinking about all new vac line. What size and lengths are required for all new hoses???

On the accelerator pump... I believe the carb to be in working order. Paid a mechanic $280 for fuel pump replacement and carburetor rebuild. Not sure if that was a fair price??

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I hate to say this but not to many people are good at rebuilding Carbs let alone Aisin Ones.

To some replacing gaskets is called rebuilding

Sounds like the Choke is not working as well .

Since the truck is still having problems I am guessing you removed the Carb and had it worked on I really Hope??

Was it a over site you didn`t mention Cap and Rotor being replaced

I just buy rolls of vacuum hose then replace as needed It gets used

If the vacuum hose is cracked and brittle

Cowen88

Haven't replaced distributor cap or rotor. Plug wires were shot so I replaced. Replaced spark plugs just because.

The truck was my grandfathers and had not had tags or been driven since '07. I started working on it in February. Replaced most of the hydraulic systems. Master cylinder, brake booster, clutch master and slave cylinders, calipers, pads, shoes, rear spring kit, rear wheel cylinders, LSPV. Changed oil with penszoil 10-30 high mileage with Lucas.

Cowen88

Checked the oil and it's pretty dark with about 150-200 miles since change. What would cause the oil to look dark so quickly???

All the vacuum hose appear to be plugged in and in working order.

Reverse lights and 4WD indicator light is out. The wires have broken off between the switch on the side of the transmission and wherever they go... Which leads me to my question, where does the switch go to???

Cowen88

What temperature is the thermostat??

Where should my needle set on my temperature gauge?

Why does it take so long for my engine to warm up?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It should have a 195 F degree thermostat what is really in there who knows.

As to where the needle sits I have some that are anywhere between 1/4 and 1/2 at operating temperature

Define just what a long time is?? Then the ambient air temperature also needs to be factored in

If your choke is not working correct and the rpm increasing it will take longer

Cowen88

Trucks has 192K original miles. All stock Toyota part except for the parts I have replaced( couldn't afford dealership prices)

what at was the original tstat temperature?

Takes 10 min for the temp needle to rise to the bottom line.

Cowen88

Truck died today... Fuel filter was had quite a bit of water in it. Had a WIX brand. Local store only had a microtech. Changed the out and it fired right up. Ordered another WIX and plan to replace when I get it because it like having the outside of the yell filter to be clear so I can see foreign material easily.

ChinkTruck

Water in the fuel could definitely cause rough and or no running. Before you said that I was suspecting as others said your choke is not engaging. This would explain why it wants to die until its warm. Stumbling when braking is likely your vacuum to the brake booster. There is a line that runs from the booster to the intake manifold. Check for cracks or loose fitting. This line also has a small plastic one way valve located half way between booster and manifold, they can go bad. Take it off and blow through it, it should only flow in one direction and close in the opposite, just like a pvc valve. Just remember which way its oriented when you remove it and put it back that way. Hope this helps.

Cowen88

Ive replace my brake booster also. I'll check that valve and try to test the line again for a leak.

Another problem that that I can't find anything on is that when I push my clutch in, somethings makes a whining noise. And also my shifter doesn't spring back to the middle neutral position from the 1st and 2nd gear side. Spring is normal from the 5th and Reverse side.