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86 4runner running rich

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Old 12-14-2009, 05:51 PM
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86 4runner running rich

Ok guys, I need some help. I have been reading and searching the forums and can't seem to find the right solution. I now appeal to the toyota guru's on here.

I have an 86 toyota 4runner with the 22re. Here are some of the quirks. I don't know which problem causes the other.

-It puts out very little black smoke, with a sooty tailpipe. I have a turndown exhaust, and when I started it the other day and let it idle, it left a black residue on the grass.
-the motor seems to run rich.
-oil smells like it has gas in it
-the only trouble code I get is for an o2 sensor. I replaced it in august and don't have 500 miles on the truck, since replacement.
-tps when checked within volt meter seems to be within specs
-new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter,
-compression was somewhere in the neighborhood of 140 on all 4 cyl.
-I tried to turn the idle down and noticed a clicking sound coming from ecu area.
-seems to have a constant miss if held at any rpm.
-revs pretty good above 3000rpms
-If I hold the throttle at 3000 rpms, it will drop down to 2500, climb back up to 3, hold for a sec, then drop back down.

I know this is alot of info, I am just frustrated because I don't know where to start, or what to look for.

any help would be appreciated.
Old 12-16-2009, 04:52 PM
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That 7m swap is sounding better and better.

I just hate to give up on this motor.

any ideas guys?
Old 12-16-2009, 06:18 PM
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When you replaced the 02 sensor did you use an OEM replacement or did you use a Bosch 02 sensor ?. If you used a Bosch 02 sensor they don`t work well in toyotas, stay with an OEM sensor. when you were checking thing did you check the timming ?.
Old 12-16-2009, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by rynamite99
Ok guys, I need some help. I have been reading and searching the forums and can't seem to find the right solution. I now appeal to the toyota guru's on here.

I have an 86 toyota 4runner with the 22re. Here are some of the quirks. I don't know which problem causes the other.

-It puts out very little black smoke, with a sooty tailpipe. I have a turndown exhaust, and when I started it the other day and let it idle, it left a black residue on the grass.
Soot in the exhaust is not just a 'rich' mixture problem but can also be related to incorrect ignition timing.
-the motor seems to run rich.
-oil smells like it has gas in it
have an analysis done on the oil
-the only trouble code I get is for an o2 sensor. I replaced it in august and don't have 500 miles on the truck, since replacement.
What is the code? There are at least 2, and up to 8 codes relating to O2 sensors
-tps when checked within volt meter seems to be within specs
-new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter,
-compression was somewhere in the neighborhood of 140 on all 4 cyl.
-I tried to turn the idle down and noticed a clicking sound coming from ecu area.
-seems to have a constant miss if held at any rpm.
check your coil and wires recently?
-revs pretty good above 3000rpms
-If I hold the throttle at 3000 rpms, it will drop down to 2500, climb back up to 3, hold for a sec, then drop back down.
sounds like an O2 compensating for something

I know this is alot of info, I am just frustrated because I don't know where to start, or what to look for.

any help would be appreciated.
Old 12-18-2009, 05:18 PM
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I did use a bosch o2 sensor. -- guess I should try another brand.

The timing seemed to act funny. I hooked up the gun, and the timing would be like this, ----0 0 0 0 12 0 0 0 0 12 0 0 0 -- I had the right connector jumped (trouble code connector right?)
I only checked it one time. I will have to check it again asap.

oil analysis?--where can i go for that?

What is the code? There are at least 2, and up to 8 codes relating to O2 sensors
I thought there was only 1 code for the o2 sensor. It flashes 5 times pauses and repeats. On a different note, I will randomly get 11 blinks which says tps sensor and circuit, computer, AC switch. (what is the AC switch)

check your coil and wires recently?
the wires are new. It's funny you mention the coil. with my ohmmeter I get a resistance of 1.5. according to my haynes manual it should be .5 to .7-- would this make a difference?

You guys are great. I will try to check timing soon, for a little better description.
Old 12-19-2009, 05:07 PM
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An update on the timing... I ran the truck down the road and got it good and warmed up. The timing was more consistent so I set it to 0. When I removed the jumper it went to 6 or 7.
Old 12-19-2009, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rynamite99
I did use a bosch o2 sensor. -- guess I should try another brand.

The timing seemed to act funny. I hooked up the gun, and the timing would be like this, ----0 0 0 0 12 0 0 0 0 12 0 0 0 -- I had the right connector jumped (trouble code connector right?)
I only checked it one time. I will have to check it again asap.

oil analysis?--where can i go for that?



I thought there was only 1 code for the o2 sensor. It flashes 5 times pauses and repeats. On a different note, I will randomly get 11 blinks which says tps sensor and circuit, computer, AC switch. (what is the AC switch)



the wires are new. It's funny you mention the coil. with my ohmmeter I get a resistance of 1.5. according to my haynes manual it should be .5 to .7-- would this make a difference?

You guys are great. I will try to check timing soon, for a little better description.
Check your TPS, if that is not adjusted or working right, the base timing will not be steady (with or without the test jumper):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...roubleshooting
Old 12-22-2009, 06:47 PM
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I painstakingly got the tps adjusted to perfect today. I will look at the timing once again. I am thinking (hoping) my constant miss is caused by the coil not being within specs. If the coil is bad, then perhaps that will solve many of my problems.

I will keep you guys updated.
Old 01-04-2010, 04:12 PM
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A new msd coil is in the mail! I am going to replace the plugs when I get the coil installed.

I surely don't like to throw money at a problem, but a fresh hot coil can only help.
Old 01-16-2010, 05:40 AM
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Coil did not fix the problem.

I drove about 30 miles after an oil change. Checked the oil, about an inch above the grid on the dipstick and very thin and smelled like gas.

I am leaning towards a faulty fuel pressure regulator. I don't think it's the injectors anymore because when I changed the coil I replaced the plugs and all were equal as far as some carbon build up. My thinking is that an injector stuck open will leave that plug wet or sooty more than the rest.

The search continues...
Old 01-16-2010, 05:57 AM
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Check all the vacum'e lines and the vsv and the other one that looks just like it vsc
Old 01-16-2010, 06:01 AM
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Ps dont try and time it perfect the old dude that taught me never used a light do it best you can all 22r run a little rough it just the way they are if need be i have the factory toyota manual
Old 01-17-2010, 10:11 PM
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rich runnings

Originally Posted by rynamite99
Checked the oil, about an inch above the grid on the dipstick and very thin and smelled like gas
Inch above the grid?
Old 01-17-2010, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Reigner
Inch above the grid?
That caught my eye too. The 'grid' being the range between low and full, which is about 1/2 qt, IIRC.
An inch above would be about 4 quarts.
Old 01-17-2010, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by rynamite99
Coil did not fix the problem.

I drove about 30 miles after an oil change. Checked the oil, about an inch above the grid on the dipstick and very thin and smelled like gas.

I am leaning towards a faulty fuel pressure regulator. I don't think it's the injectors anymore because when I changed the coil I replaced the plugs and all were equal as far as some carbon build up. My thinking is that an injector stuck open will leave that plug wet or sooty more than the rest.

The search continues...
Before you jump at the pressure regulator, pull the electrical plug off of the cold start injector and see what happens.
You might even check for voltage on that plug and if you do have voltage there, the cold start injector time switch may be bad or more likely you have an issue with your wiring since the time switch should only have voltage when you are cranking the engine to start.
Old 01-17-2010, 10:53 PM
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did u reset ecm after new 02?
Old 01-18-2010, 05:35 AM
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I did not reset the ecm right after install. When I installed the coil, I had the battery disconnected for several minutes. so yes it should be reset.

QUOTE-------"Before you jump at the pressure regulator, pull the electrical plug off of the cold start injector and see what happens.
You might even check for voltage on that plug and if you do have voltage there, the cold start injector time switch may be bad or more likely you have an issue with your wiring since the time switch should only have voltage when you are cranking the engine to start."

I am assuming this is with the truck running. That is a great idea.

I didn't know how else to describe the range between fill and full on the dipstick. I referred to the part that looks like this XXXXXXX. It was an inch above that, up there with all the numbers and letters.

Thanks for the great ideas.
Old 01-18-2010, 08:26 AM
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Might be a few litres to much oil in there, mate.... Believe oil level is supposed to be on the xxxxxxxx markings, not above, not below.

Alternative is your dipstick is too long?
Old 01-18-2010, 10:42 AM
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that was my point. I am worried that the gas is getting in the oil and raising the level diluting it, lowering it's viscosity, thus killing my motor. I changed the oil today, to verify I didn't put too much oil in, and to get the gas out.

the cold start injector operates (i can hear it click) until the motor reaches operating temp. checked the voltage and 0.0.

I certainly appreciate any and all comments or ideas...
Old 01-24-2010, 07:16 AM
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Rynamite99, any updates? I'm watching this thread and searching all over & reading too.
Had a 22re put into the '93 several weeks ago, supposed to only have 88k on it.
Gas is definitely getting in the oil! Unfortunately, none of the old parts are here (injectors, etc.). Call into person that did the swap unreturned! $1200 for motor and labor sounded good at the time.


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