tbland86

to start off the problem after getting stuck in water. The water was up to the headlights and to the bottom of the seats. The truck didn't die in the water i shut her down. After pulling her out i was able to fire her back up. Ran for bout 5-10min very rough then died. Pulled plugs and drained oil. New oil and plugs/cap/rotor. Efi fuse has blown replaced it. Getting good spark getting 10v to fuel pump when cranking(should there be 12v running to it koeo?or just power while cranking?) getting 12v to the connector going to the ecu, getting 12v to No.10 and No.20 on the connector side the pluges into the ecu but no voltage if its pluged into the ecu. They both drop to 0v. Did a compression test 1/2 were 145, 3 was 115, 4 was 125. When i was doing compression i had the ecu unplugged and it fired up ran really rough for bout 15-30sec only did it when i was testing 3/4. Could the compression be the no start problem? Why does it fire up witn out the ecu? Any help would be nice done most other tests.

tbland86

compression was done wrong i see now how much would that of changed my results?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

See you started a thread, TB...

I'll be back when I can to try and help as best as I can. Why not format your findings a bit more cleanly, eh?

1. 145#
2. 145#
3. 115#
4. 125#

Then explain how you tested it, in detail, spaced out a bit so we can help you do a proper P.O.E.

IF you tested properly, and those were your results, ....that's quite a drop in compression on #3. I must have misunderstood, regarding your replacing the EFI fuse.... I thought it mostly resolved your problem.

Ok, so

1. It's been dunked up to the headlights( Is it possible that you sucked a good portion of water into the intake before you were able to kill the motor?)
2. Do another compression test, properly, according to FSM instructions, ok?
3. Not sure why the truck would start with the ECU unplugged.(You mean you unplugged all 3 connectors and it started???)
4. When checking for voltage, plugged in, are you turning the truck over? Not sure, but I think that it's not going to be passive to power until the COR has kicked on the Fuel Pump, and proper power is getting to the starter, and I believe a few more things. I would think the ECU would have to be in some type of circuit in order to show power running through it. And, I think it sends 5V to many of the components, not 12v. Not sure how it does that, other than through a series of resistors, etc., ....a few of which have possibly been blown. I would imagine that the ECU was also underwater, at least partially, no? It's not water tight, TB.... very possibly could have fried something in there. NOT SURE on that.

So, it's Turning over, you're SURE you're getting adequate spark... Have you removed the CSI to observe whether fuel was pumping through it when trying to start the truck?

Not sure what damage could have been done by sucking water into the intake, but I GUESS something in #3 COULD have hydrolocked or bent, .....Guys?

I would 'GUESS' that the ECU might have suffered H20 Damage, AND/OR, ..something electrical or internally, related to fuel relay or air intake was damaged, due to being either dunked or suction inward-through air intake- of water. People drive these things, however, in mud and water, all the time, sometimes creeping in the floor board, ...NO ISSUES.. But you never know, eh? Can you find an ECU to swap out with and verify that yours is ok? Many dealers, if they have one lying around, will at least slap one in there to try and help you verify whether it's functioning.

PS> How long did it sit in the water before you got it out?(and how did it get out?)

tbland86

1)truck was in water for maybe 10min, was turned off by me while waiting to be towed out.
2)pulled off air filter felt dry, bottom of air box was dry
3)truck fired back up ran for ten min ran rough tho. Died while ideling.
4)drained oil changed oil and filter also plugs cap and rotor getting good spark from all wires
5)getting fuel on the plugs after cranking
6)jumpered the fuel pump and it turns on
7)ecu voltage checks out for FSM at all wires except no.10 and no.20
8)can get power to no. 10 and no.20 wires in the comector that plugs into the ecu but as soon as i plug it in the voltage drops to 0 for those wires.
9)ecu was under water.
10)truck did fire back up and ran for like 30sec maybe but the ecu was unpluged all 3 connectors
11)will redo compression test tommrrow and post results.
12)fuses and relays tested good according to FSM.

tbland86

tested compression
1: 150psi
2: 150psi
3: 145psi
4: 145psi
Also didn't have a noid light but used stehoscope and i could hear the injectors click once as the key was turned on should i hear it while cranking also? Multiplul clicks? Going to grab a light tommrrow.

tbland86

pulled the cold start injector has good stray also tested resistance was 3.3 ohms with in spec. After jumping the fuel pump terminal to test CSI, i tryed to fire it back up and it cranked very slow for a cranks then when back to normal cranking. Could an injector be spraying and pumping gas into a cylender with the pump jumpered?

tbland86

bad ecu got a new one truck runs now

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

DANGGG, THAT'S 4 ECu's within a couple months. Must be 'Expiration Summer' for these things, lol.

RIGHT ON, TB! I'm not sure why my Control Panel wasn't notifying me that you were posting. Sorry man! Glad to hear it's running!!!!!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

GREAT! HOW is it running, for one? Secondly, ....I guess if you've flooded it good, somehow, it could have wound up leaking past the rings into the crankcase/oil pan. First of all, if you've got fuel in the oil, you need to drain it, no question about it. It might happen again, if you've got other issues...but at least you won't be running extremely thinned out oil in the mean time, ya know? Pretty sure that happens, most often, when either the rings are a bit worn or when it's extremely flooded when not running(meaning, you've been tinkering with the fuel pump a lot while the truck wasn't running.) However, I would think it would have to be running in order for the injectors(if they're tightly sealed up and not leaking) to fire into the cylinder. I guess somehow you were getting them to fire fuel in the cyl's... which with any wear at all would leak past the rings I would imagine. If they(the injectors) were firing, but the ECU was bad in that it wasn't allowing spark at that point due to misreading things, ...I guess that could be the cause. First drain the oil, ok?

Is the COR and Fuel Pump, etc., all coming on at the right time now, on their own, without jumping the pump, etc?

tbland86

was running good now will not start up. Left key in the start position for 12+ hours killed the battey. Charged battery back up but it just clicks. Will not crank the engine at all. Did have some smoke coming from the steering colum while it ran. Dash lights turn on and throw code 6 while running.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hmmmmmm. Interesting, "smoke from the column" thing is.

Here's what you wanna do. Just to verify it will start and stay running, Jump start with another battery/car. ***KEEP THE NEGATIVE LOOSE***. Once it starts, remove the negative cable and see if it remains running. As long as your alternator is good, it should. DO NOT try to charge this battery up with your alternator. Take it in to AutoZone(whomever is near you) and they'll test it and even charge it for free, if it's able to take a charge. If not, ....well, then that battery was on it's last leg.

You really HAVE TO HAVE a working battery and Alternator to move any further, Brudda, ...ya know?

PS> WHILE YOU'RE TRYING TO JUMP IT, keep an eye on that area of the dash, and if it's smoking still or not, you might have a problem in there.... But you're just trying to get it running. If it wont jump start, it could very well be that you've burned up your ignition switch or something like that.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

BRB, have to look up Code 6

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

tbland86

it ran for a while after i had the new ecu in. Now just doesnt want to go was jumping with my other rig. Only reason i asked about the coil was due to that code. Going to try tapping the starter while i crank. Will pull battery and starter if nothing changes and have them tested

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I didn't even notice you'd mentioned the coil, Tb, sorry bout that. I did notice you saying, "CODE 6", ... so yeah, I think you might check on the igniter resistance, pick-up(on dizzy) resistance, coil resistance, Secondary res., COR res., EFI Fuse in kick panel, etc., etc., etc. . They're all free checks, as is the battery and starter check. Tapping on the starter trick is ok, but it's not a fix, period. However, there are other components that the STA(starter portion of the ECU) relies on that will NOT ALLOW it to turn over.

You said you charged your battery, ....did you read it with a Multi-meter? A good way to check is to plug in an off-road light or something while you're testing and see if it drops off the map. That would mean either a bad gauge on the charger(rare) or a totally depleted cell(or two) in the Battery, which will cause it to give off a false positive. You can run a jumper to your starter, too. Just to see if it clicks, etc. That would mean something more related to the COR-EFI Fuse-MAIN FUSE, etc.

DO YOU HAVE POWER IN THE RIG, AT ALL? (Dash lights, head lights, buzzer, etc., etc.?)

tbland86

k got it crank and fire up by tapping the starter but just dies right away. ideals for bout 5 sec. Still throwing code 6. dont see any test specs for testing the ignition. Also fsm testing for this code says resistance(K ohms) should be .14-.18 is that in thousand of ohms or is that what my meter should read. Very confused. it ran fine last week had it running for like 30min

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well, it should say on the test, TB, ... it will usually say something like (kOhms). Anyway, you can test it on 2K setting on the meter and that's fine. (.14-.18) equals, really, 140-180ohms when your meter is on 'K'.... Just move the decimal over one to the right, ...ya know? You could try testing it on 200ohms, but I would just stick with 2K, that way it wont go out of range. However, when something calls for 6K ohms, make sure you're on 20K, or 10K if your meter has one, otherwise the meter will just fall off after reaching, basically, the limit at that setting. Like with my Coolant Temp Sensor... it's supposed to read 2.4K and I had the meter set on 2K.... It read it fine for about 2 Seconds, crawling up to 1.9 and then falling off with an "O.L." reading (Over Limits).

Dang, I'm really sorry man! That stinks! ... Hmmmm, Well, on testing the Ignition System there are a few things involved. You have an FSM? Or you're talking about the pages I posted?

I'll read up a lil bit and try to get you some info asap, ok? Have to prepare dinner. For now, what I meant was that you could test all the ignition components. However, you now know you're getting power to the STARTER(and the STA Portion of the ECU). Do you know how to test things at the ECU? Anyway, the Starter going and then it starting is a good sign in regards to the EFI Fuse, Circuit Open Relay, Main Relay, .... I suppose something could have been given a surge and caused the ignitor or secondary coil to take a dump in part.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> Double check to see that your Coolant Temp Sensor is connected well. It will run for about 5 seconds and stall if that is disconnected. Also, are you saying you jumped it and left it jumped and it wouldn't stay running? If your alternator is no good, that doesn't always tell you as clear of a picture. That's why I said pull the ground to be sure your Alternator is pushing 14.5 or so Volts. Maybe run off another check list of things you've done, in what order and what went wrong, in what order, etc., ya know? Also, post your Resistance findings. Check your reading at the Pick-up(that's checked at the green plug that comes out of the dizzy)... It should read 140-180, PERIOD. That's another really easy check, ya know?

tbland86

i have the 85 4runner fsm it has test for the coil and ignitor but are they the same for a 86 pickup? Cant seem to find a 86 fsm online. But with code 6 it looks like i fryed either ignitor or ecu or both by the way it looks. I did the resistamce test on the ecu and i dont think it was with in spec. Why do they say not to just test from the ecu pins for resitance to easy to bend a pin? Been doing it though the connector.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey TB, sorry for the wait, been really busy.........

Well, I'm not positive, but I seem to remember there are a few differences on the 84-85 ECU. You'd have to call the dealer and ask them for the number, then compare it against yours.

Also, you can crimp some needles or something to the end of the meter pins, to avoid prying on the wires on the back. Make sure the ECU is unbolted and laying on it's side. Unplug it and test the connectors from the back with the key on and according to FSM for the tests of those components. They have to be connected for several, because the truck has to be running. I'm not sure on the "DON'T test right at the ECU prongs", ...but I think it's to avoid putting power to the prongs, while possibly hooked up improperly, causing damage to ECU????

Lemme find some pics of the tests and schematic for the ECU for ya.(You could just go to my Troubleshooting thread and see my tests I've ran and read through a bit, ok???? Not because I'm lazy, hahaha. Rather, because you might get some info you could use, ya know?) BRB.............