SR5

Front OME Shock
Rear OME Shock
Rear OME Lift Coil Spring
Front OME Steering Dampener

provides 2"

http://www.rocky-road.com/4runner.html


1 Pair 2"/50mm Coil Spring Spacers and
1 Pair 1.5"/38mm Ball Joint Spacers

provides the other 2"

also
Panhard Rod Drop Bracket

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...anhardDropBrkt





What do you guys think?
good combo?
anybody running this?

Matt16

You cannot lift the front 4.5" without a bracket lift. The front is actually best left stock height for durability. Buy lockers and forget the lift, 4Runners already have more ground clearance than just about any other 4x4 stock.

SR5

Well when i first bought the truck i would have agreed with you, i couldn't find a place to get stuck, but as time moved and as i got more serious into wealing well the need for a lift become clear

SR5

wait is the reason that you cant lift the front 4.5 inches because the A arms would be to over extended??

abecedarian

I'm stuck with the math...
nothing other than the BJ spacers changes the front lift.
so... BJ spacers= 1.5" lift up front....
someone want to explain how we end up with 4.5"?
even with 1" from a torsion bar (not listed in the OP, but is on the webpage about the lift)...
we're still at 2.5, not 4.5


even when combining the best of components from the original post,
I still can't get any more than 3" no matter how I try to stretch it.

abecedarian

how about this: you can't lift it 4.5" because it's not in the kit(s) you're looking at.
and going 4.5" lift with an IFS suspension would bind the CV joints unless the differential was lowered, and that's not in your 'kit' either.

SR5

well the new shocks up front raise it 2"
at least thats what OME site said

CC_yota

Jeenyus04

shocks them selves cannot raise a vehicle
if your starting to do some serious wheeling thinking about an sas may be a better idea than fighting with your ifs for a while then giving in and doing it.

FredTJ

Ok, let's start way at the beginning.
Why or what, specifically is causing "the need for a lift become clear" ??

To provide meaningful help, we need to know what the specific problem(s) is(are).




Fred

FredTJ

No, that's not what the site says.
You didn't read it close enough




Fred

SR5

Fred
the site said 2" and all that came on the front was shocks so i assumed that whats lifted it


the need for a lift comes from
A) Height clearance of the belly
B) the need to fit 33 and still have flex
C) to have more range of motion of my sespention

abecedarian

I think I know where the confusion lies. The site says that if you're not installing the oversize torsion bars that you'll have to adjust the stock bars for the lift. Either option is not the smartest thing to do if you're planning on using 4wd- cranking the stock bars for lift will put your CV's in a position to bind and also give you a more harsh ride since you'll have almost full suspension travel for compression and almost none for extension and the installing the uprated bars may give you a stiffer ride and will also require you crank them for lift so you'll have the same problems as using the stock bars.

Also, you won't get any extra flex at all in the front unless you install the BJ spacers.

Mic09dcsm

The 2" should mean for 2" of lift with regard to the shocks, as in what they can accomodate. I would get the coil spacers, bj spacers and a 2" Body lift if I were you.

ovrrdrive

Going with oversized tbars and cranking them up and adding bj spacers both give the same type of lift and both are going to put your cv's in a bad angle. Trying to do both at the same time will make the truck all but un-drivable. If you want/need 4" you need to go with a bracket lift. You can get a 4" Rough Country bracket lift for $599 shipped direct and it is the same lift as a Superlift but with different coatings on the parts.

Thinking that you have to somehow justify why you want to lift the truck on here before you get any advice is just plain silly...

Jay351

Well, cranking the torsion bars usually causes you to ride on the upper bumpstops = very little down travel. This usually causes a rough ride. BJ spacers allow for the lift but also increase your up travel while keeping your downtravel stock. Verrr nice!

Yes, incase you have not got the just of it yet - shocks do NOT provide lift. When they say they are good for 2" of lift, that means they will fit a truck lifted 2".

You cannot do any lifting beyond around 2" without droping the differential. Without a diff drop your cv joints are not able to cope with the angle.

Do some research

SR5

i checked but they dont have one available for my year

Fizboy

If you are wanting to put your rig on 33's you should be able to do it with little to no lift at all in the front with minimal rubbing. I run 33X10.50 on mine with little rub on the sway bars. I do have the thicker torsion bars but that is because I plan on putting on a heavy bumper.

abecedarian

huh? who doesn't have it? rocky road?
they are made you just have to find em.

ovrrdrive

Since you have a 4runner you have to do something different in the back anyway than a truck. The $599 kit only provides 4" blocks for the rear which won't work for a runner anyway. Most of the stuff in the kit is for the front. Your front is the same front as a truck of the same year so you can use the kit for the front of a truck, but you'll have to lift the back some other way.

I wish I could tell you what that was but I know nothing about the 4runner rears. Maybe you could use the items you posted above to do it...