4wd problem. Faulty CV?
#1
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4wd problem. Faulty CV?
Was looking around diffrent topics and not sure what this could be. I replaced the driver's side CV shaft today. Replaced the Passanger side last week and it did not have this problem. Today wanted to make sure 4wd engaged fine "Was on dirt" and it jolts towards the drivers side like its binding. I look out the window and at the wheel and it spins fast for a sec like its trying to catch up as i move and is not driveable due to it jerks bad and getting it out of 4wd i have to back up a little then go forward to get it not jerk or it will just stay in 4wd even though i have it in 2H. Did i just get a faulty CV shaft? Its a 94 4runner
#2
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What type of hubs do you have? Being a 94 runner, I'll assume you had ADD and auto-locking hubs. Did this problem exist before the CV axle change?
Sounds like your hub has a problem (re-assembly issue?) or the ADD system is not engaging properly.
Sounds like your hub has a problem (re-assembly issue?) or the ADD system is not engaging properly.
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thier not auto hubs, their solid hubs. the front end has a collar on the inner axle that locks the front end. jack up the front end and try spinning the tire in 2wd. if it is binding you will know.
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it will jurk in 4wd because it is fighting against itself. do the test I mentioned, it should only take a few minutes and will give you a quick answer.
by the way what made you replace them in the first place
by the way what made you replace them in the first place
#7
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Ill give try out the test on monday and see what happens, am I looking for a bind when its in 2h and when I put it in 4h? I replaced it because it was rusted and the passanger side cv I broke look like a blender went into the lower joint so wanted 2 new CV's
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In 4wd, the add will lock in, and the axle will be tied to the diff. In 2wd, the driver side tire is disconnected from the front diff by the ADD system. (obviously the engine has to be running for the add to engage!).
If you don't have binding in the drivers side wheel in 2wd, but do in 4wd, the loss of the passenger CV may have caused some damage to your ring or pinion when it broke.
Good luck!
If you don't have binding in the drivers side wheel in 2wd, but do in 4wd, the loss of the passenger CV may have caused some damage to your ring or pinion when it broke.
Good luck!
#9
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So I did the wheel spin test on both sides and they both spun pretty freely without binds. I tested the 4wd again and still does the jerk. New diff problem fix? may look into a manual hubs if i gotta replace it
Last edited by Tanker5503; 04-26-2010 at 03:02 PM.
#10
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The vehicle MUST be running when you put it in 4WD... It is vacuum actuated.
The "hubs" are not "hubs". Google, "drive flange" and you'll see it...
This is why I hate ADD. You can not troubleshot the system...
To do it properly, you'll need to remove the skid plate, pull one of the two vac lines to the ADD switch and put a vac on one of the two so it locks.
Then you need to either jack one wheel, or the whole front end up, to test it.
B/c unless the ADD is locked, you're only spinning the spiders in the case... NOT the ring and pinion... You can turn the shaft from under the truck too and check, but drive will stop at the open link if the ADD is not locked...
The "hubs" are not "hubs". Google, "drive flange" and you'll see it...
This is why I hate ADD. You can not troubleshot the system...
To do it properly, you'll need to remove the skid plate, pull one of the two vac lines to the ADD switch and put a vac on one of the two so it locks.
Then you need to either jack one wheel, or the whole front end up, to test it.
B/c unless the ADD is locked, you're only spinning the spiders in the case... NOT the ring and pinion... You can turn the shaft from under the truck too and check, but drive will stop at the open link if the ADD is not locked...
#12
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been busy lately so haven really look into this again till today i locked the ADD system (with hope it would fix it and i just get manual hubs) with the method on 4x4 wire and the CV boot clamp. drove around in 2wd felt like in 4wd but expected that. went over to a dirt road put it in 4wd again and started doing the whole jerking gig to one side again. also after putting the stick into 4wd have to go into reverse to get it back into 2wd/stop jerking. I lifted the whole front end up and spun both tires and they spine with resistance (since the add is locked) and both CV's have no bind. i returned the one i thought was bad and replaced it with another new one and no luck.
any other idea's? going to take it off tomorrow maybe and open it up to see if its that or the xfer case.
any other idea's? going to take it off tomorrow maybe and open it up to see if its that or the xfer case.
Last edited by Tanker5503; 05-21-2010 at 02:16 PM.
#13
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it's not the transfer case...if it was...it probably would have blown up already...
still sounds to me like it's the ADD flange..lol
throw some manual hubs on it, and see what happens!
after you get a set of manual hubs on it, you'll be able to leave the hubs unlocked, put the T-case in 4wd, and see if it still binds. i bet it doesn't.
still sounds to me like it's the ADD flange..lol
throw some manual hubs on it, and see what happens!
after you get a set of manual hubs on it, you'll be able to leave the hubs unlocked, put the T-case in 4wd, and see if it still binds. i bet it doesn't.
#14
old thread i know,
i am having the same problem. my truck is orig. a ADD, and i put manual hubs on it. when i lock the hubs and put it in 4wd the driver side pulls and jerks like the OPs did. when i lift it on the jack, and unlock the hub i have no problems, but if its locked i cant spin the drivers side.
i am having the same problem. my truck is orig. a ADD, and i put manual hubs on it. when i lock the hubs and put it in 4wd the driver side pulls and jerks like the OPs did. when i lift it on the jack, and unlock the hub i have no problems, but if its locked i cant spin the drivers side.
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