4runner won't crank, no click, good battery
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4runner won't crank, no click, good battery
87 turbo, AT, 225K (motor has 13k).
Parked it at the airport for a couple days, then got back to the airport, wouldn't crank, no click. It often sits much longer at home no problem.
Beat the starter silly, tried shifting the AT through the gears with the key on in case it's the neutral safety switch (which has been acting up, but the shifter is way sloppy), nada. AAA brought it home for me.
Starter was acting up, recently got new starter contacts, has been fine since.
Headlights don't dim when I turn the key to the start position, but the clock does.
I hear the 87s are supposed to have a starter relay on the inner fender, this one does not.
Any suggestions on where to start digging? I'm hoping something simple like the starter (with an air ratchet, comes out in mere minutes).
If it's the neutral safety switch, seems like it's $200... time to swap the R151 in. Really not looking to start that project yet.
Parked it at the airport for a couple days, then got back to the airport, wouldn't crank, no click. It often sits much longer at home no problem.
Beat the starter silly, tried shifting the AT through the gears with the key on in case it's the neutral safety switch (which has been acting up, but the shifter is way sloppy), nada. AAA brought it home for me.
Starter was acting up, recently got new starter contacts, has been fine since.
Headlights don't dim when I turn the key to the start position, but the clock does.
I hear the 87s are supposed to have a starter relay on the inner fender, this one does not.
Any suggestions on where to start digging? I'm hoping something simple like the starter (with an air ratchet, comes out in mere minutes).
If it's the neutral safety switch, seems like it's $200... time to swap the R151 in. Really not looking to start that project yet.
Last edited by edeslaur; 02-18-2012 at 01:11 PM.
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Yeah, I've found one that clicks behind the glove box (far upper right, very tight to get to). No clicks this time. I'm betting it's the neutral safety switch. Looking right now for how to test it/bypass it, will need to do that anyways for the 5 speed conversion.
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Sorry.
The ignition switch applies voltage to the starter solenoid.
Over time, the contacts in the ignition switch may degrade, resulting in "no start" situations.
The best solution is to install a relay between the ignition switch and starter so that the ignition switch turns on the relay which in turn activates the starter solenoid.
One thing you can do to sort-of verify the issue is, when the ignition switch won't start the truck, jump a 10-12 AWG wire from the + terminal of the battery over to the small terminal on the starter. If the starter turns over, it's likely the ignition switch isn't letting enough current pass to acuate the starter.
The ignition switch applies voltage to the starter solenoid.
Over time, the contacts in the ignition switch may degrade, resulting in "no start" situations.
The best solution is to install a relay between the ignition switch and starter so that the ignition switch turns on the relay which in turn activates the starter solenoid.
One thing you can do to sort-of verify the issue is, when the ignition switch won't start the truck, jump a 10-12 AWG wire from the + terminal of the battery over to the small terminal on the starter. If the starter turns over, it's likely the ignition switch isn't letting enough current pass to acuate the starter.
Last edited by abecedarian; 02-18-2012 at 03:20 PM.
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Neutral safety switch failed.
Checked power at starter - zip
Jumpered the NSS connection above the starter - varooom! (in any gear).
Truck's getting a 5spd, so not replacing this $180 part (will take a cheap used one tho, hit me up via personal message).
Here's my hack. That's a folded-over 30A fuse. Both connectors have since been covered with tape to keep dirt and water out.
My Clymer's doesn't show this 3-wire connector for this year, it shows a 2-wire connector.
Does anyone know what the RED wire does and whether or not I care?
Checked power at starter - zip
Jumpered the NSS connection above the starter - varooom! (in any gear).
Truck's getting a 5spd, so not replacing this $180 part (will take a cheap used one tho, hit me up via personal message).
Here's my hack. That's a folded-over 30A fuse. Both connectors have since been covered with tape to keep dirt and water out.
My Clymer's doesn't show this 3-wire connector for this year, it shows a 2-wire connector.
Does anyone know what the RED wire does and whether or not I care?
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