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4" bracket plus bj spacers= 35's?

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Old 05-20-2009, 05:01 PM
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4" bracket plus bj spacers= 35's?

So I searched around but most people running 35's on ifs have a bracket and body lift, does any one know if with a 4" trailmaster bracket lift and bj spacers if I can clear 35 12.50s? Because I am clearing 33 12.50s np with just the bj spacers and dont want a bracket lift unless I can run 35's.
Old 05-20-2009, 05:04 PM
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Did you make another thread? I swear i saw the same thing with a different name....
Old 05-20-2009, 05:05 PM
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I would bet you could clear 35's with a bracket lift alone

but I'm only guessing
Old 05-20-2009, 05:06 PM
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Stock will clear 30" fine and 31" with maybe some fender pinch weld work.
A 35" is only 2" more radius than 31" so would clear with bracket alone.

And then for the gearing....
Old 05-20-2009, 05:13 PM
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35's will be fine with the bracket lift. Mine does it every day, sometimes on two wheels.
Old 05-20-2009, 05:18 PM
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cool thanks! I got a complete 5.29 front diff and I just need to get a rear 5.29 diff then my gearing will be good to go. But I am going to run stock 4.10's for a few months.
Old 05-20-2009, 05:26 PM
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4.10's are a stretch for 31" wheels and even worse with 35's.
Good luck and don't be afraid to rev to 5000 with the 4:10's. It won't hurt the engine unless the engine's already on the way out.
Old 05-20-2009, 05:26 PM
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For a few months? Wow, well have fun with that! lol!
Old 05-20-2009, 05:27 PM
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I got a 3.0 5speed so it will be fine.... It pulls 33 12.50s really good as is. I ran 4.10's and 35's on my sas converted 4cyl truck for a while and never had a problem.(to bad I sold it
Old 05-20-2009, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by abecedarian
Stock will clear 30" fine and 31" with maybe some fender pinch weld work.
A 35" is only 2" more radius than 31" so would clear with bracket alone.

And then for the gearing....
I thought stock would run 30" and 31" no problem; it's typically 33" that the pinch welds have to be hammered down

I've never had a hint of rubbing with my 31"s, although they do come pretty close to both the rear of the inner fender, and the front lower valance

but at the same rate, I can't speak about the possibility of them rubbing under compression, as torqued t-bars don't really make for an easy suspention to compress I'm hoping to remedy that with my Rancho UCAs yet to be installed
Old 05-20-2009, 05:28 PM
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35's cant be much worse gearing wise than 33's.... I hope lol
Old 05-20-2009, 05:30 PM
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lol, I couldn't imagine 33"s on 4.10's after running my 31"s for so long; I bet 4.10's with 35"s is going to be a DOG... say goodby to 5th gear for a while, lol
Old 05-20-2009, 05:32 PM
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On my 88, 31's would clear with the wheels turned full left or right, but any significant compression would cause them to hit the fender welt. The tire shop test fitted tires for me before I bought them. My brother (280 lbs) and I (220 lbs) bounced on the front bumper to check for rubbing.
That's why I have 30's on my truck- bought the tires before I did the lift and they did not rub at all.
At the time, a lift kit was a distant want but little did I know I'd find a take-off lift kit within 2 months. So now I'm going to wear them out before I buy new feet... or at least have money to buy 16" rims for Sin91's truck so I can mount my tires on her truck (her's has 15" rims now). ...and she needs an LSD for the rear....

Last edited by abecedarian; 05-20-2009 at 05:34 PM.
Old 05-20-2009, 05:33 PM
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I can hold 70mph with 4.10s and 33 12.50s in 5th on the highway. I am probably going even faster because the spedometer is probably off. Maybe my truck is just like herby the love yota and it doesnt know its a 3.0 lol
Old 05-20-2009, 05:40 PM
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Throw the 5.29s in the front pull the rear d-shaft and run in 4-hi till you can get the rears. lol
Old 05-20-2009, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by pitster33
I can hold 70mph with 4.10s and 33 12.50s in 5th on the highway. I am probably going even faster because the spedometer is probably off. Maybe my truck is just like herby the love yota and it doesnt know its a 3.0 lol
lol, before this rebuild I'm in the process of now, my veteran of 296k miles 22re could barely hold 60mph in 5th on 31"s with the stock 4.10s BUT, this little rebuild should more than solve that problem
Old 05-20-2009, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by toylocost
Throw the 5.29s in the front pull the rear d-shaft and run in 4-hi till you can get the rears. lol
OR!!! you could just throw the 5.29 in the front, and not use the 4wd til you get the rear geared....
Old 05-20-2009, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mattaway
OR!!! you could just throw the 5.29 in the front, and not use the 4wd til you get the rear geared....
that sounds a little easier, lol
Old 05-20-2009, 05:48 PM
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yeah, the 3.0 is a bit better with taller gears since is has a tad more torque, but still, 35's are a different beast than 33's. a 31 to a 33 is not the same increase in circumference as a 33 to a 35...
circumference= PI*diameter so
28" = 87.96452 circumference
31" = 97.38929 circumference
33" = 103.67247 circumference
35" = 109.95565 circumference

so the jump from a 28 to a 31 results in about 9.5" more inches traveled with each rotation of the tire, and from 31 to 33, is another 6.3", and 33 to 35 is another 6.3". So, to jump from the stock 28" to a 35" is 22" more distance traveled, and from a 31" to a 35" is 12.6" farther travelled... with each revolution of the wheel.

Keep that in mind.

And don't forget that increasing the frontal area of the vehicle (via raising it and or having wider tires) increases wind resistance and requires more torque at the wheels to maintain a given speed.
Old 05-20-2009, 05:54 PM
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dude yota tech is awesome I always learn some thing cool. Thanks abecedarian for sharing that tire info.


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