4" bracket plus bj spacers= 35's?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fortuna, CA
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
4" bracket plus bj spacers= 35's?
So I searched around but most people running 35's on ifs have a bracket and body lift, does any one know if with a 4" trailmaster bracket lift and bj spacers if I can clear 35 12.50s? Because I am clearing 33 12.50s np with just the bj spacers and dont want a bracket lift unless I can run 35's.
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fortuna, CA
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
cool thanks! I got a complete 5.29 front diff and I just need to get a rear 5.29 diff then my gearing will be good to go. But I am going to run stock 4.10's for a few months.
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
4.10's are a stretch for 31" wheels and even worse with 35's.
Good luck and don't be afraid to rev to 5000 with the 4:10's. It won't hurt the engine unless the engine's already on the way out.
Good luck and don't be afraid to rev to 5000 with the 4:10's. It won't hurt the engine unless the engine's already on the way out.
Trending Topics
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fortuna, CA
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I got a 3.0 5speed so it will be fine.... It pulls 33 12.50s really good as is. I ran 4.10's and 35's on my sas converted 4cyl truck for a while and never had a problem.(to bad I sold it
#10
Contributing Member
I've never had a hint of rubbing with my 31"s, although they do come pretty close to both the rear of the inner fender, and the front lower valance
but at the same rate, I can't speak about the possibility of them rubbing under compression, as torqued t-bars don't really make for an easy suspention to compress I'm hoping to remedy that with my Rancho UCAs yet to be installed
#12
Contributing Member
lol, I couldn't imagine 33"s on 4.10's after running my 31"s for so long; I bet 4.10's with 35"s is going to be a DOG... say goodby to 5th gear for a while, lol
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
On my 88, 31's would clear with the wheels turned full left or right, but any significant compression would cause them to hit the fender welt. The tire shop test fitted tires for me before I bought them. My brother (280 lbs) and I (220 lbs) bounced on the front bumper to check for rubbing.
That's why I have 30's on my truck- bought the tires before I did the lift and they did not rub at all.
At the time, a lift kit was a distant want but little did I know I'd find a take-off lift kit within 2 months. So now I'm going to wear them out before I buy new feet... or at least have money to buy 16" rims for Sin91's truck so I can mount my tires on her truck (her's has 15" rims now). ...and she needs an LSD for the rear....
That's why I have 30's on my truck- bought the tires before I did the lift and they did not rub at all.
At the time, a lift kit was a distant want but little did I know I'd find a take-off lift kit within 2 months. So now I'm going to wear them out before I buy new feet... or at least have money to buy 16" rims for Sin91's truck so I can mount my tires on her truck (her's has 15" rims now). ...and she needs an LSD for the rear....
Last edited by abecedarian; 05-20-2009 at 05:34 PM.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fortuna, CA
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I can hold 70mph with 4.10s and 33 12.50s in 5th on the highway. I am probably going even faster because the spedometer is probably off. Maybe my truck is just like herby the love yota and it doesnt know its a 3.0 lol
#16
Contributing Member
lol, before this rebuild I'm in the process of now, my veteran of 296k miles 22re could barely hold 60mph in 5th on 31"s with the stock 4.10s BUT, this little rebuild should more than solve that problem
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NFM, Florida
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#18
Contributing Member
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
yeah, the 3.0 is a bit better with taller gears since is has a tad more torque, but still, 35's are a different beast than 33's. a 31 to a 33 is not the same increase in circumference as a 33 to a 35...
circumference= PI*diameter so
28" = 87.96452 circumference
31" = 97.38929 circumference
33" = 103.67247 circumference
35" = 109.95565 circumference
so the jump from a 28 to a 31 results in about 9.5" more inches traveled with each rotation of the tire, and from 31 to 33, is another 6.3", and 33 to 35 is another 6.3". So, to jump from the stock 28" to a 35" is 22" more distance traveled, and from a 31" to a 35" is 12.6" farther travelled... with each revolution of the wheel.
Keep that in mind.
And don't forget that increasing the frontal area of the vehicle (via raising it and or having wider tires) increases wind resistance and requires more torque at the wheels to maintain a given speed.
circumference= PI*diameter so
28" = 87.96452 circumference
31" = 97.38929 circumference
33" = 103.67247 circumference
35" = 109.95565 circumference
so the jump from a 28 to a 31 results in about 9.5" more inches traveled with each rotation of the tire, and from 31 to 33, is another 6.3", and 33 to 35 is another 6.3". So, to jump from the stock 28" to a 35" is 22" more distance traveled, and from a 31" to a 35" is 12.6" farther travelled... with each revolution of the wheel.
Keep that in mind.
And don't forget that increasing the frontal area of the vehicle (via raising it and or having wider tires) increases wind resistance and requires more torque at the wheels to maintain a given speed.