bbcrawl

took the leap and decided that the 2g's a shop wants to do a HG ob is just out of my budget and not worth it for what i want to do with this truck.plans are to do this HG SAS it and get some chevies in the rear. and thanks to morphine for his write up gave me confidence to break into this bitch of an engine.....

on with the tech and pictures.

everything marked with marking compound

getting ready

intake union off

fuel rails

picture of pvc valve hose location FSM dosent give a good pic of were it actually is

coolant temp sensor and others

bbcrawl

more of what ive done.

*NOTE* you dont need the SST to get the pully bolt off. its on there extremely tight so what i did was put it in 5th gear and pull the eergency break and used a 3 foot piece of DOM slid over the socket wrench and cranked on it. make sure you put the engine back to TDC if it moves.

intake off

heads off

right bank cylinders # 1, 3, and 5

left bank cylinders # 2, 4, 6....you can see my HG failure was on cyl. number 6 the combusting coolant "cleaned" the piston head

bbcrawl

sent them out today for a valve job(grind valves re-shim) and some milling to make them true flat again.

ill post more pictures as it comes back together and i start with the water pump and timing kit...im also puttin on a new knock sensor wire and new head bolts

calipatient

iTrader: (1)

nice... any follow up?

wii_tarded

I would recommend replacing the dummy water pump if the one that came off is feeling a little tight or wobbles from side to side. You already have it off, see if you can find one in a jy, to replace it with. That part is $700+ here, and a PITA to replace any other time.

paranoid56

are you going to go with arp studs or or reuse the head bolts? i have been told that the stock head bolts are part of the issues we have with this engine.

Tubbyfatty

If you reuse the stock head bolts, you shouldnt be wrenching. They are a torque to yeild bolt, so they stretch. Its like 35 ft lbs then you turn em 180*


great job so far. My HG blew the other week and I have yet to work on it yet. Im gonna be following this.

paranoid56

sorry, i should have stated that differently. not reusing, but using new head bolts. i read a few places that one of the issues is that they are not up to the task and that studs seem to hold up much better and dont seem to have the HG issues anymore. (this is all internet talk so i guess take that with a grain of salt , i was just wondering )

Tubbyfatty

Ive never seen studs. Ive seen ARP head bolts, i think they might of been called studs but they looked like regular bolts to me. Got a link?

On ARP's site i only see the supra motors for studs. no 3vz

area1509

Thats the same thing mine did, is there any way to reroute the exhaust away from the heads to prevent this?

camo31_10.50

yep...have your shop weld up a BOLT ON crossover that runs under your tranny...unless you go offroad..then have em route it under the t-case output it'll be protected there

area1509

Do you have any pictures of how you routed the rite bank down by the starter?

camo31_10.50

who me?? lol i haven't gotten my exhaust done yet on my 3VZ (gonna wait till after i get the motor rebuilt lol)..

BoostinChick

*PCV

Positive Crankcase Ventilation

Will be following this thread too since I will be removing my heads after the winter (no compression #3). Were you doing this on a budget? Seems a popular pair for people re-doing their head gasket is o/s valves and cams.

paranoid56

DOA racing engines are the guys i was thinking about

Tubbyfatty

Oh gotcha.

Wrenchinjoe

What kind of head gaskets are best when you reassemble? Should you go with OEM or does another maufacturer make a better gasket? I have read that copper HGs are a good way to go, but they come in a wide variety of thicknessess, which should you use?

Thanks,

WJ

BoostinChick

Go with OEM. If you are getting the heads and the block resurfaced that you should go with the copper/multilayer HG.