Syrus54

1992 Toyota Pickup, 2-dr Xcab, 3VZE 3.0 V6, 4WD, 5spd, no A/C.

Ok, ok.. I know what you're thinking: "This question has been done to death"

I agree, but all those threads are years and years old, and none of those Original Posters ever explained how/if they Fixed the Issue.
So I will give this a shot, and I wont quit this thread, until I fix the Problem.
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Here's the Problem:

I went 4-wheeling, got water in the Air Filter, which killed the Engine.
I was able to re-fire the truck, drove it home. But ever since, it ran like crap.

It would Idle sparratically, and be low on Power. It progressively got Worse.
I started hearing a clicking near the waterpump, that eventually went away.
I was getting 12mpg BEFORE the problem, which dropped to 4 afterwards. No Joke!

I drained the tank (incase it has water in it) --- Still has Problems.
I drained water out of the Exhaust ------------ Still has Problems.
I made sure the Air Filter was clean and Dry --- Still has Problems.
New oxygen sensor for the exhaust ----------- Still has Problems.
New Throttle Position Sensor ----------------- Still has Problems.
New Mass Air Flow Sensor -------------------- Still has Problems.
New Spark Plugs & Wires --------------------- Still has Problems.

So now, I'm fed up, and I pull the top of the Engine apart.
Pull Timing Cover off, looking for Rocks (mabey) ?
Checked Fuel Injectors : All Good.
Fuel Injector Connectors: No Issues.
Timing Belt in relatively good Condition (needs replaced eventually, but not right now)

I'm at a loss..... what else could it be?

I'm gonna drag it to the Shop in a couple months when I have the Money...
but right now, I'm looking for any expertise from my Fellow YotaTech Members, as-to any more possible Culprits to my Idle and Fuel-Consumption issues???

offroadnutz

Have you pulled codes yet?

scope103

Check compression. It takes only about a tablespoon of water to hydrolock and damage the headgasket or other.

Syrus54

Compression is Good, all cylinders above 150psi.

How do I check the Code? Any threads or links to videos?
Bare in-mind, I dont have any computer-reading tools, either.

So i'd need whatever's the cheapest tool available. Either Harbor Freight, Amazon, or ebay link.

thanks

teaMJPx

Here you go (cheapest tool also... paperclip... jejeje)


http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

Diagnostic codes for the 22RE: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...26diagnosi.pdf

Diagnostic codes for the 3VZE: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf

Syrus54

Wow.. that's nuts.

I was thinking of a hand-held PDA-type device...
but I'll try the Paper Clip thing....

Thanks

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OK, i jumpped from E1 to TE1, and my check engine light just kept flashing. Nothing else flashed.
The Check Engine light flashed over 110 times.
Consistant Flashes, about 2 per second...

So, that means it's good... so then what?

bswarm

Paper clips and T-pins are a must for electrical diagnostics. And a good digital multimeter.

Swim

Did you check your timing? Could've knocked it off a few

Syrus54

No idea how to do that.

Can you explain the process, or post a weblink to a tutorial?

Swim

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=setting+3vze+timing+%2B+yotatech

Syrus54

"Let me google that for you" ???

What is this?
Is it like Adf.ly stuff, where you earn money when someone clicks on it?

bswarm

You check the timing by jumping TE1 to E1, and use a timing light connected to #1 plug wire. The crankshaft pulley or damper has a notch, there's a timing marker on the case. Set it to spec's indicated on the underhood label.

Syrus54

The truck was in a crash, and the Original Hood is long gone.

But i'll go buy a timing light once I can, and check that...

Syrus54

..ok, I pulled the Dist. cap off, and cleaned the contacts inside, and the Rotor contact.

Put it back on, and the Engine still ran the Same. It starts, but refuses to stay running.

So i fugured I'd screw with the Distributor. I unscrewed the bolt, and twisted it Counter Clockwise.
This made the Engine start, and stay running for MUCH longer, but eventually, it still died. It also idled very low.

So I twisted the Dist. Clockwise.... And now the engine Stays running, but runs VERY ROUGH, and VERY low on power.

(Again), I dont have a Timing Light, so I'm just guessing what i'm doing.

I'll definately have to drag this thing to the shop, if I cant diagnose this myself.

bswarm

See if the EGR valve is stuck open. It should not be open at idle.
You put a TPS on it, is it adjusted to specs?
See if there's still water in any vacuum hoses.
See if any wiring might be shorted from water.

Syrus54

All that EGR crap was cut out.
It just added more complication to something that needed to be Simplified.
Plus it took up too much room. I like an Open engine bay, that's easy to work on.
Vacuum hoses went with it, and everything was capped off.

As for the TPS... I have no idea if it's set to spec, or anything. Hell, I dont even know if I put it on right.

I have a 90 4runner, and a 92 pickup. Same Engine, but completely DIFFERENT engine components.
Different ECU, Different Coil, Different Plug Wires, Different Distributor, Different Distributor Cap, Different Radiator Cap/Thermostat, etc..........

Any tutorials or threads on TPS installation/adjustment?


Thanks

Syrus54

Here's some pics of my Pickup:









My cut-out and welded-up EGR:



My Pickups TPS:


4runner TPS:



See? 4runner points toward the Drivers Side, Pickup points to the Passengers Side.

I have no idea what to do....

Swim

Ya know, it's kinda funny. I've had a few of these engines, and have had very similar problems to what you're describing. I also know my way around the 3.0 quite well. I pointed you in the direction of Timing because I'm about 80% sure that's where your problem is.

The "let me google that for you" is sarcastic humor reminding you to SEARCH for things that have been covered in detail multiple times. Buy a $10 timing light or borrow one from auto zone. If you want to fix the truck properly, guessing isn't going to solve your issues.

I was about to post a fantastic article on the TPS adjustment, but you'd probably think I was trying to get paid again. SO, instead, scroll ALLL the way up to the top of this page and type "TPS adjustment" in the search bar, followed by clicking the "Search" button.

I don't have the time to Spoon feed you everything. Most of what I post is done from my phone or iPad. If you can't search on your own when someone points you in a direction, I suggest you find a reputable mechanic in your area...Which someone on here could probably recommend, but nobody has any idea where the heck "The TRON grid is."

Good luck with your truck.

Shady Cadence

When you got water in the air filter, how deep was the truck?

Syrus54

... wow.... thanks for the help.

The chassis got wet, but the Body wasnt touching the water.

The initial Impact of the Water, I had water coming over the Hood, but once all 4 tires were in, and the truck was stopped, the water was only 12"-24" deep.
I could open my door, and the waterline was atleast 4" under the Body. (no body lift on my truck, that I'm aware of)