3vze overhaul PS in air resonance chamber and H20 bolts
#1
3vze overhaul PS in air resonance chamber and H20 bolts
260k on my 90 2 door 4 runner (newer body style) and second owner since 1999 and it has been sitting for the past two years after my wife drove it on the freeway at 70mph in 4th gear. It started to blow off white smoke periodically from the tail pipe and at the same time the power steering went out... but no loss of power accelerating so we stopped driving it; I figured it was a blown head gasket and didn't want to do further damage. Its an awesome ride to take to the lake, snow or desert so we just have it as a fun vehicle. I'm doing the whole upper end... head job with new valves, oil pump, timing belt, tensioners, water pump, knock sensor, fuel injectors, heater core etc. When taking the heads off, I found about a pint of PS fluid in the Air Resonance chamber next to the air filter.
What check valve should I be looking for to replace that caused this issue? It doesn't seem like it would be the steering vaccum valve on the plenum cause there was no PS fluid in the plenum...
Also a while back I changed the radiator... and unknowingly put in green antifreeze. Just as this whole issue with the smoke started the heater stopped blowing hot air so I figured some crap clogged it up. When I yanked everything the rusty antifreeze water is horrid! I guess I'm always using the red toyota stuff... silicates no bueno! Removing the H20 pump the bottom bolt was sheered, not sure how long it has been like that and when I changed it about 60k ago it went together fine and hasn't been leaking. I can't find a new bolt set anywhere even on ebay... I found a stock code for 9011608270 water pump bolt stud kit but no specifics...
My Chilton is no help, but does anyone have a link/sticky to the bolt sizes? Or where I can pick them up at?
I also googled PS in air filter and other variations but can't find any specifics. Any input would be awesome. And yes I'm going to keep the 3vze in it, my buddies tell me to yank it and do the conversion but its fine how it is.
What check valve should I be looking for to replace that caused this issue? It doesn't seem like it would be the steering vaccum valve on the plenum cause there was no PS fluid in the plenum...
Also a while back I changed the radiator... and unknowingly put in green antifreeze. Just as this whole issue with the smoke started the heater stopped blowing hot air so I figured some crap clogged it up. When I yanked everything the rusty antifreeze water is horrid! I guess I'm always using the red toyota stuff... silicates no bueno! Removing the H20 pump the bottom bolt was sheered, not sure how long it has been like that and when I changed it about 60k ago it went together fine and hasn't been leaking. I can't find a new bolt set anywhere even on ebay... I found a stock code for 9011608270 water pump bolt stud kit but no specifics...
My Chilton is no help, but does anyone have a link/sticky to the bolt sizes? Or where I can pick them up at?
I also googled PS in air filter and other variations but can't find any specifics. Any input would be awesome. And yes I'm going to keep the 3vze in it, my buddies tell me to yank it and do the conversion but its fine how it is.
Last edited by regnar11b; 12-14-2014 at 07:58 PM.
#3
Registered User
Vacuum system attaches to the pump on the far side of the engine from your air intake... So that's very unlikely to be a seal or the like that failed...
Most likely, your power steering box or or hoses on the drivers side of the vehicle sprung a leak and it got sucked in through the intake... Do you still have the factory air deflector in? Guessing that you don't or it wouldn't have performed as such...
My guess of loss of power is combo of sensors being ruined on the coolant side (rust) and air intake side (power steering fluid).
toydiy is great for looking up parts by VIN. Toyotapartsoverstock.com allows you to search for partys by the part #, but remove the dash, -.
Most likely, your power steering box or or hoses on the drivers side of the vehicle sprung a leak and it got sucked in through the intake... Do you still have the factory air deflector in? Guessing that you don't or it wouldn't have performed as such...
My guess of loss of power is combo of sensors being ruined on the coolant side (rust) and air intake side (power steering fluid).
toydiy is great for looking up parts by VIN. Toyotapartsoverstock.com allows you to search for partys by the part #, but remove the dash, -.
#4
That is so super weird.
How do you know it's PS fluid and not motor oil blowback through the breather? Is your PS fluid a specific color? The PS fluid in mine kinda looks like fresh motor oil, it would be easy to mistake if I had just done an oil change.
If you're worried about it you can always cap the PS vac lines, I run mine with no PS idle up and it really makes no difference besides a very slight idle dip while turning the wheel at idle.
How do you know it's PS fluid and not motor oil blowback through the breather? Is your PS fluid a specific color? The PS fluid in mine kinda looks like fresh motor oil, it would be easy to mistake if I had just done an oil change.
If you're worried about it you can always cap the PS vac lines, I run mine with no PS idle up and it really makes no difference besides a very slight idle dip while turning the wheel at idle.
#5
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#6
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Should be red as it calls for Dexron ATF.
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Away from my truck at the moment and I can't remember where the vacuum lines lead to, but isn't the "Air Control Valve," shown in the diagram below, somewhere in the intake circuit? Someone please correct me if I'm wrong! I'm working off of my shady memory here!
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#8
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I am reading this post and wondering if this could be the problem with my truck. My 3.0 has a severe lack of power and it was totally rebuilt 1500miles ago. I have replaced or adjusted everything I could find or that has been recommended to me on this site.
However, I have been nursing a power steering pump leak the whole time. It leaks so bad that I can go through a reservoir in 4-5 5 mile excursions. This truck is at my hunting camp so working on it is logistically bad.
But, from what I am reading here there is a way for the leaking fluid to be sucked into the intake and cause a performance problem. I'm not a mechanic but have been able to accomplish a few tasks using write ups on this site like replacing the knock sensor and its wiring harness.
Is this the case or am I misunderstanding?
Thanks.
However, I have been nursing a power steering pump leak the whole time. It leaks so bad that I can go through a reservoir in 4-5 5 mile excursions. This truck is at my hunting camp so working on it is logistically bad.
But, from what I am reading here there is a way for the leaking fluid to be sucked into the intake and cause a performance problem. I'm not a mechanic but have been able to accomplish a few tasks using write ups on this site like replacing the knock sensor and its wiring harness.
Is this the case or am I misunderstanding?
Thanks.
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The "air control valve" (see the picture above) is just a vacuum switch operated by the pressure in the PS pump. If the diaphragm in the valve fails, there is a connection from the ATF in the pump to the vacuum of the intake. Sucking ATF into the intake does you no good at all.
But it's easy to check; just trace the two hoses from the valve up to the plenum, remove them, and see if ATF drips out.
When I replaced my PS pump, the rebuilt came with a new air control valve. If you're pretty sure it's leaking "from" the pump (rather than from the high pressure hose, for instance) replacing the pump might just take care of it.
But it's easy to check; just trace the two hoses from the valve up to the plenum, remove them, and see if ATF drips out.
When I replaced my PS pump, the rebuilt came with a new air control valve. If you're pretty sure it's leaking "from" the pump (rather than from the high pressure hose, for instance) replacing the pump might just take care of it.
#10
The "air control valve" (see the picture above) is just a vacuum switch operated by the pressure in the PS pump. If the diaphragm in the valve fails, there is a connection from the ATF in the pump to the vacuum of the intake. Sucking ATF into the intake does you no good at all.
But it's easy to check; just trace the two hoses from the valve up to the plenum, remove them, and see if ATF drips out.
When I replaced my PS pump, the rebuilt came with a new air control valve. If you're pretty sure it's leaking "from" the pump (rather than from the high pressure hose, for instance) replacing the pump might just take care of it.
But it's easy to check; just trace the two hoses from the valve up to the plenum, remove them, and see if ATF drips out.
When I replaced my PS pump, the rebuilt came with a new air control valve. If you're pretty sure it's leaking "from" the pump (rather than from the high pressure hose, for instance) replacing the pump might just take care of it.
Thanks for the input. The PS pump does appear to leak and the shaft has a good amount of play in it. However, the leakage visible in the engine compartment does not seem as large of an amount as I am required to add. It will empty the reservoir with about 4-5 five mile trips.
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