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3VZE not sparking & Check Engine light won't come on.

Old 10-10-2015, 02:28 AM
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Bumping this thread to say THANK YOU.

Bought a 2nd gen non running no spark for 350$, they replaced everything.

I'm a cressida douche so luckily I kept all my stupid 7m ˟˟˟˟, tossed in a Cressida MAF and boom, spark. This thread saved me so much money.


Thank you, best purchase ever, saved my truck from being parted out. 237k running good now
Old 06-26-2017, 05:59 PM
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So I have been chasing down a no spark issue myself and I am so glad I came across this thread. I do not have it running because my battery is now dead and too lazy to give it a jump. Charger is on the battery for the night. But it sounded like it wanted to fire once. My MAF sensor looked like the one above but the three prongs soldered to the board on the sensor are completely loose. The solder is what had popped off and was shorting across all three wires. I have a great feeling about this. Hope to find one on the cheap.
Old 08-25-2017, 12:33 PM
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Cool Check engine light won't come on but truck runs fine

I have a 95 4Runner with the V6 3VZE engine in it. I just rebuilt the top end after the head gasket had failed. I bought the truck with a blown head gasket so it wasn't running when I bought it and I didn't realize that the check engine light was not coming on. I went to to smog it and they wouldn't do a smog because the check engine light will not come on in the "on" position. I pulled the instrument cluster and someone had jumpered the check engine light over to another bulb, I think to get it to turn on at start up, and then stay off. I pulled the jumper, replaced the bulb, and I still cannot get the check engine light to come on. The "brake" light also does not come on, but the "ECT Power" in the same set of lights powered by the same electrical connector works fine. Anyone have any ideas as to why my CEL won't come on and what to look for? Thinking I need to start running continuity checks to the ECU but not a electrical guru so assuming it will take a little effort. Any help is appreciated!!
Old 08-26-2017, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Tdubbs05
Alright first off I've done a ton of searching so far with no luck at all.

The Problem: My 3vze will no start. It turns over fine but is not sparking. I've check the ignitor coil to spec and its good. I've checked the distributor's pick-ups and their good. From what I've found there's no way to check the Ignitor to see if it's good so I tried one from a junkyard and still no luck. I've also tried to pull the codes via the check engine light and the check engine light will simply not turn on or flash whatsoever. It won't come on when put the key in or when I jump the diagnostic plug. I've replaced the bulb and run troubleshooted with no luck. This is starting to make me thing the ECU is bad. I've been starting to look into the fuel injectors but if the thing won't spark there's really no point in proceeding any further.

For a little background, this happened once two days before it wouldn't start at all. When it first happened, somehow through pulling the battery ground and pulling the high tension cord (aka the sparking wire from the ignitor coil to the distributor) it started right up. When this happened, it didn't die while driving, just turned it off one the night and now it won't start at all.

As of right now I have 2 ignitor coils that are good according to the FSM and 2 ignitors that I have no way to test to see if they are good. Is there any way to see if the ECU is ok? Any ideas of what to check/replace next?

Thanks in advance for any help.
I forget off hand what the wire color going to the ECU for the CEL. I think it is purple. If you take a jumper wire from that wire and ground it to the chassis the light should come on when the switch is turned on. This just shows you the bulb is good and you have continuity to the ECU. If you have that then I would check and make sure you have a good chassis ground to the ECU. Those will be the brown wires going to the ECU. I forget the label numbers on those. My issue was that the connector in had opened up and was not making good connection with the ECU. I took a small tool and closed the pin up so it would contact better. Check these items first.

As far as it turning over and no spark you will need to open up the MAFS. Mine had solder that had come undone and shorted across the other terminals. Either fix the short or replace with a new one. This gave me spark and then I had to move on to the other issues. There is a YouTube video on MAFS just do a simple search on Toyota V6 no spark MAF.

Last edited by CaglezXJ; 08-26-2017 at 07:34 AM.
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Old 09-01-2017, 04:32 PM
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Hello, Any help will be appreciated, I have a 1991 Toyota pickup 4x4 with the 3vze v6, i'm having a no spark issue, I've changed numerous parts such as coil, distributor, used ecm troubleshoot the igniter with the ig wire and was getting a spark from the hot battery terminal which made me get spark through the coil, I've unplugged the maf sensor and still received no spark. Has anyone else had this issue and came to the conclusion and solved the problem? Before the truck stopped running. when it would crank the truck would idle high at 3000 rpm.
Old 09-02-2017, 11:42 AM
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Take the top of

Originally Posted by jermz86
Hello, Any help will be appreciated, I have a 1991 Toyota pickup 4x4 with the 3vze v6, i'm having a no spark issue, I've changed numerous parts such as coil, distributor, used ecm troubleshoot the igniter with the ig wire and was getting a spark from the hot battery terminal which made me get spark through the coil, I've unplugged the maf sensor and still received no spark. Has anyone else had this issue and came to the conclusion and solved the problem? Before the truck stopped running. when it would crank the truck would idle high at 3000 rpm.
Take the top off the MAF and see if it's shorted like I stated above. Unplugging it does nothing. It has to see air flow before you get spark.
Old 09-02-2017, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by CaglezXJ
Take the top off the MAF and see if it's shorted like I stated above. Unplugging it does nothing. It has to see air flow before you get spark.
You don't want to take the top off the VAF (you don't have a MAF -- different technology) unless you absolutely have to. It's carefully sealed, so the only way you're going to get loose solder in there is if someone else has already hacked it up. You'll never be able to re-seal it as well as it's done in the factory.

More importantly, the FC switch in the VAF has nothing to do with spark. It interrupts power to the COR which stops the fuel pump (a safety measure if you break a fuel line in an accident). http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...92volumeai.pdf
Old 09-17-2017, 09:23 PM
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maf

i had the same issue. replaced the MAF and it started fine. the MAF will nkt let the ignitor work if its bad.
Old 02-21-2018, 09:09 AM
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Thumbs up Thanks Bugs1961

Had to bump this awesome post and say thank you to Bugs1961 above (looks like he hasn't been around in a couple of years though). There are tons of posts everywhere about this issue, and I have probably read them all, but Bugs' test procedure saved me some much money and sanity I can't believe it. If you are having this issue, go through his procedure first and then follow the rest of the thead. I had a bad connection in the engine fuse panel under the EFI relay. It almost drove me insane, but I finally got in with the multimeter and found the continuity between the 3 and 5 ports was shaky. Man, did that save me some time and cash. People out there with no or intermittent CEL, don't give up hope, haha.
Old 05-12-2018, 07:56 PM
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Efi fuse bad and keeps popping

Everytime I place a fuse into the efi 15amp fuse part it pops. I have bought a short finder and that is telling me that there's a short all the way to the ECU not sure what to look for or what
Old 06-04-2018, 06:00 PM
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Bump for saving my bacon, thanks guys!
Old 09-04-2018, 09:34 PM
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I've tried what seems like everything as far as troubleshooting. I haven't replaced anything besides a coil that I had laying around since the coil was reading slightly lower than normal resistance. I've read the article about the tap test and there is spark when I touch a test light from the black/blue wire on the igniter to the positive terminal of the battery. I've tried unplugging the vafm and the CEL still won't turn on. I've verified the bulb is working by grounding the purple wire and the CEL turns on. I'm stumped at this point and not sure where to go next.
Old 11-01-2018, 07:20 AM
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No Check Engine Light/No Spark from coil 90 toyota pickup 3.0

I been having this issue of No check engine light and no spark from coil, I'm no mechanic and limited on what I can do (recovering from injury) I had my Toyota at a shop for about 3 weeks now, I really think it's over their head, I'm looking for someone in this area that knows how to check a 90 Toyota pickup to come fix it, I'm in the Fairfield county Ct. area.
Old 11-02-2018, 11:53 AM
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My issue ended up being a bad ECU. Some roaches had crawled in there and died... Everything else tested fine and all of the ecu pins had the proper voltages and resistance.
Old 11-02-2018, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by randol_8o8
My issue ended up being a bad ECU. Some roaches had crawled in there and died... Everything else tested fine and all of the ecu pins had the proper voltages and resistance.
That is a bit misleading, you had no ground on the CEL circuit at power up.
Old 02-15-2019, 08:35 PM
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Same prob. 94 3vze. no spark. Would a bad AFM keep the engine from starting? PITA (pain in the ass) turns over like a champ. Just wont fire. I think my AFM is bad
Old 02-15-2019, 08:50 PM
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Update

Originally Posted by 22kiddoo
Same prob. 94 3vze. no spark. Would a bad AFM keep the engine from starting? PITA (pain in the ass) turns over like a champ. Just wont fire. I think my AFM is bad
Problem was Solved it was my ecu. Swapped them out and started right up. But my initial problem was still there which was a tick. Further investigation led to finding a burnt rod bearing. Now i swapped in a 3.4 just have the plugs to rewire. Needless to say i have a functioning computer if you need it.
Old 02-15-2019, 08:56 PM
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I would check your solenoid and make sure you have power first. Just follow the problem down the line and it usually works out.. no spark means no power to solenoid which is cause by something else to something else. Oreillys will let you return the parts if you just want to throw a new part in to see if its the problem and if its not you can just return it.

another thing people often forget is to check all the fuses not just the ones that you think it might be. Thats how i narrowed it down to the ecu before.
Old 02-25-2020, 11:00 AM
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3vze turns over no spark

Originally Posted by Tdubbs05
Alright first off I've done a ton of searching so far with no luck at all.

The Problem: My 3vze will no start. It turns over fine but is not sparking. I've check the ignitor coil to spec and its good. I've checked the distributor's pick-ups and their good. From what I've found there's no way to check the Ignitor to see if it's good so I tried one from a junkyard and still no luck. I've also tried to pull the codes via the check engine light and the check engine light will simply not turn on or flash whatsoever. It won't come on when put the key in or when I jump the diagnostic plug. I've replaced the bulb and run troubleshooted with no luck. This is starting to make me thing the ECU is bad. I've been starting to look into the fuel injectors but if the thing won't spark there's really no point in proceeding any further.

For a little background, this happened once two days before it wouldn't start at all. When it first happened, somehow through pulling the battery ground and pulling the high tension cord (aka the sparking wire from the ignitor coil to the distributor) it started right up. When this happened, it didn't die while driving, just turned it off one the night and now it won't start at all.

As of right now I have 2 ignitor coils that are good according to the FSM and 2 ignitors that I have no way to test to see if they are good. Is there any way to see if the ECU is ok? Any ideas of what to check/replace next?

Thanks in advance for any help.
i was watching something and this guy changed all of it coil ecu timing belt igniter distributor basically it was all new. turns out its the cranksensor! i have a92 4runner 3vze same thing happened.
Old 02-29-2020, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Barbara Stockton
... turns out its the cranksensor! i have a92 4runner 3vze same thing happened.
Interesting. Mostly because the 3VZE doesn't have a crank[shaft position] sensor. The plug firing signal originates in the distributor (G1, G2, NE).

My understanding of the function of a crankshaft position sensor is to detect misfire. Would be nice, but I don't have it.
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