wbthornton88

I'm having trouble figuring out how 4 hoses hook up on the side of the intake with all the vaccum hoses. The hoses I'm talking about are the ones that are paired with the rubber/foam casing. The 4 connectors are also in pairs. 2 are black and the other pair is a goldish color. I was wondering if the paired hoses belong to their own paired connector or if they are mixed up.

OutlawMike

This should give you an idea.

Let me know if you need more pics, I will PM you with my Photobucket account, I have 200+ pics of my engine tear down for my 3.0.

wbthornton88

thx that helps

bomhour

http://flic.kr/p/bVZnqw

What helped a lot? What happened to this thread...it's the one I need an answer to too.

I bought my 93 3vze back in October. Since then I did the head gaskets blah blah blah blah blah. Not fun but I got her running. drove it all winter but only around town never on the highway for more than 5 minutes. So spring comes along and I pack her full of camping gear and three friends and head off to the Black Hills from Montana. There are a couple of real doozies between here and there, hills I mean. Of course, she gets pretty hot and we end up turning around. So I decided to investigate it further and throw a few more bucks at her. So far I have replaced the air filter and wires per suggestion around the net. While I was at it, I decided now would be a good time to pull the plenum and do the coolant temp sender and sensor. I put her back together and now the darn thing wont start. I did all the wires in order. broke a couple of brittle plastic retainers but they are snug. Back in October I had to jerry rigg all the vaccum hoses as you can see in the image here. She has been running around town like this for 7 months.
image
So, with all that in mind, should I just redo all the vacuum hoses using the diagram on the underside of the hood? Do I also have to replace all the little check valves and vacuum switching valves? truck has also been throwing fault codes 14 and 71. I have the EGR disconnected with the resistor method of bypass which i attribute to code 71. Not sure what 14 means..."IGFsignal from igniter is not input to ECM for 6 consecutive ignition. Anyone got an advice on what to do next. I just want to fix the darn thing so I can sell her. Cant sell a truck to people that might overheat if you drive more than 10 minutes on the highway. And now it doesn't run at all. So I think I need to redo the vacuum hoses 1st. I'm just wondering what that will cost me to do it all correctly and what the best reference might be? I was planning on not fixing the EGR since we dont have emissions tests here in Montana.

Sorry for the rant but I've had it up to me eyeballs with this thing.

thanks for your advice.

scope103

It sounds like you're just throwing parts at it. Sometimes you get lucky, usually not.

As far as failure to run, you need fuel, air, and spark. It isn't much more complicated than that. I'm going to make a wild guess that you've lost spark (and your code 14 was predicting a failure somewhere in the ignition). The easy way to tell is to hook up your timing light to a plug wire and crank it.

Overheating is probably a completely different problem, and while the truck will run badly with vacuum lines messed up, I don't think that's the cause of your overheating. Thermostat, water pump, radiator, fan.

Good luck!

bomhour

Scope103, I did the timing light test and found not spark. I put in an salvaged AFM and Ignitor which corrected that issue and hopefully fault code 14 (IGF signal is not input). Now she will turn over but will only run really rough and then stall out after about 3-5 seconds unless you really gun it and that wont keep it alive for much longer. At this point, I think the fuel and spark are in correct working order because the truck will start. Now I am looking at the Air. So I replaced the vacuum hoses and switch which I also found at the salvage yard. None of that helped out with the truck not wanting to run. Then I started looking for other vacuum leaks. I found a bunch of hoses that were cracked and splitting at their ends coming from the air plenum. I am in process of replacing the bad ones. once i have pretty much all new vacuum and air hoses I will be stuck again...if it still wont start. I put in a brand new EGR valve to get rid of fault code 71 (EGR). Someone on Toyota-4runner.org suggested that next i would need to test the TPS and then the computer. Do you or anyone else have any advice at this point. I have all the manuals and could probably fumble my way thru some of the resistance electrical test.

thank you,

bomhour

I have now tested the fuel pump and the TPS. The fuel pump did turn on but the TPS failed the resistance tests from the FSM. All of the specs were ok except for IDL - E2 & VTA - E2 which came back as infinity. I checked it several times so I'm pretty sure that the TPS needs to be replaced to. It seems like all the electronics got fried or something. Pretty soon all the electronics up stream from the plenum are going to be new (except the distributor). I assume that failing the resistance test means the TPS has to be replaced? Or, is it possible the ECM is causing the failure in the resistance test?

bomhour

wanted to give an update incase anyone is still watching this train wreck. put in new fuel regulator and no change....except that the fuel leak is now gone. truck will start but chokes out after about 2 seconds.

So far, i have installed a new or (salvaged=*), ignitor*, coil*, TPS, ECM*, wires, fuel regulator, VSV's* and hoses*, PCV valve, EGR, air filter and AFM*. Started out with codes 71 and 14.

I will check the codes again tonight to see it they are both still active and report back. I tested the fuel pump and it works. I pretty sure the problem is in the fuel delivery system. I think the air system is all hooked up properly and functioning.

I'm pretty interested in disconnecting the wire between the ignitor and ECM and checking the grounds. Truck has 198k on it. If that does not work I will look at the fuel filter.

93toyrunner2

Overheating should be your main concern at this time, not vacuum hoses. If the engine is overheating, you need to check and see why. Compression test on all cylinders and find out if you have a bad head gasket, or low compression. Pressure test cooling system, checking for leaks. Fix the overheat issues, then worry about vacuum hoses.
When you did head gaskets, did you burp all the air out of the cooling system by parking it on an incline when filling?

93toyrunner2

bomhour

Thank you for the diagram that will be very helpful. However, i went in to change the plug wires and coolant temp sensor/sender and now the truck wont start. I'd love to just have the overheating issue. Instead I'm dealing with fault code 14 (no signal form ignitor to ECM or something similar).

new head gasket about 1000 miles ago and was running just fine before I put the plug wires and coolant /sender/sensors on (except for a coolant leak which I also recently fixed and was going to test by driving up a big long hill). I replaced the plug wires one at a time and have double check that nothing changed. the only thing I can think of now is that while I was installing the coolant sender I could have bumped the wire bundle that runs form the Ignitor to the ECM and is now causing a short out. I just don't know.

thanks again for the diagram.

nathanmyers

If you haven't had problems with those 6 vacuum hoses you haven't worked on a 3.slow. haha. I really like that diagram 93toyrunner2. I'm going to steal that for when people ask about those connections.

bomhour

I have all these all hooked up correctly and the truck is running again. Thanks for all you help 93toyrunner2 and Scope103. I think I was having a number of issues having to do with the air supply. I found a lot of hoses with cracked ends and poor connections. Could have had some stuffed up VSV's too. Salvaged AFM was corroded and needed to be cleaned. All in all, I feel a whole lot better about the truck after having inspected much of the electrical, fuel and air systems. No more fault codes! I discovered a couple of leaks in my rear brake lines though. I might just have a brake shop fix those with some splices.

thanks again.