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I’m currently tearing apart the 3VZE in my ‘91 pickup to replace the head gasket. I’m about 75% of the way done, and thought it would be a good time to ask a couple of questions. Any help would be appreciated.
Since I have the engine torn apart, and access to things that I normally wouldn’t, are there other parts/components that I should look at replacing or inspecting to see the condition?
Can someone give a recommendation on a good company to buy the gasket and other parts from?
I am no expert, and this is by far the biggest project I’ve attempted before. Any hints or words of advice that could be helpful when I start putting it back together?
I’ve been reading about the exhaust crossover pipe, and how that has a lot to do with the head gasket problems on the 3VZE, and so I’d like to get rid of it. Could use a recommendation on a good brand of headers. If I install headers do I have to change the rest of the exhaust? Or are they manufactured so they’ll match up?
Also, is there a cheaper option instead of headers? If I could weld I figure I would probably be able to make something, but I can’t.
1) knock sensor and/or wire inspection. injector service (if it's not been done in the last 100k), timing belt, pulley, water pump. that's all i can think of right now
2) i got my gaskets from o'reilly. it's been a lot of years since and no probs. fel-pro, as i recall. i got the new headbolts from engnbldr.com...pretty sure. may have been rock auto
3) chase all the threads very well for the headbolts. a little lube on the bolts, too. use new bolts, btw. and follow the procedure to the T.
4) if you must get rid of it, then there's plenty of info on "crossover pipe removal/mod" for 3vze. google it. can't advise you on headers. i left the stock crossover on mine. i don't worry about it. i think a tight exhaust system and regular valve inspection is more important.
5) i'm sure you could get an exhaust/muffler shop to fab something up using the flange from your crossover. have it run down in a more standard y shape. then, just block off the empty port on the driver side manifold. not sure if that'd be any cheaper, but then i don't know prices for headers..
Thanks for all of the info. This is great stuff.
I'm not sure when the injectors were last serviced. Can I visually inspect them to check how they're doing? and if so, what am I looking for?
I'm currently in the middle of rebuilding my top end as well. I followed the recommendation of others and had my sent out to Witch Hunter for a thorough inspection and cleaning. Looking forward to getting them back, can't vouch for them just yet but have high hopes.
I just finished tearing everything down, and based on other pictures I've seen I was expecting to find some damage to the gaskets, but I didn't really see anything. Like I said in my original post, I haven't done anything this thorough before, and so I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for. Was this mis-diagnosed? Is there always damage to the gaskets if it was the head gaskets leaking?
I did notice that the tops of most of the pistons were blackened, not sure if that means anything.
Thought I'd post pics and see if anyone saw anything that could be helpful.
Thanks.
okay, that's good to know. You said you sent your heads out to get cleaned and inspected. How much does something like that cost? I know I'm supposed to do that, and I will, I just have to find a shop around here.
DO shop around. I paid $475 for the machining on two heads, and the gasket set (you want the machine shop to install the valve seals, which come in the gasket set. So get the gasket set first, or buy it from them so they can take the valve stem seals.) Prices varied all over the place. (And what I paid in the "big city" may be very different from what you need to pay.)
When you call around, try to be sure you get all the items they plan to do, so you're comparing apples-apples. There's no point grinding the valves without pressure testing the head, so you don't want to pick the bargain price and then find out the pressure testing will be another $110.
You CAN skip the machining, and just slap the old head back on. But I don't think that would be wise, unless you knew the heads were done "recently."
Last, I think stefanc is right. A clean piston head like that is usually water in the piston. Also, while a failed head gasket is by far the most likely culprit, you could have a crack in the head. The usual way to find these cracks is to "tank" the head so it is clean, then just look. Most shops don't bother with magna-fluxing (which wouldn't work on an aluminum head anyway) or Zyglo.
I'm no expert mechanic or anything, but I'll tell you what I did, not saying it's right.
I went with a set of Doug Thorley headers on my 3VZE, got them from Summit. They aren't cheap but it did remedy that crossover issue, and I had a Borla muffler installed on it. It sounds really good..It also opened the motor up. After rebuilding the heads, I used the Stud kit from LC Engineering. The torque on those is about 80 psi vs. stock(I think it may be 30, I don't recall specifics but it is much more that head bolts.). If you go with MLS gaskets, which I personally wouldn't do, unless you have the heads and block milled, make sure you get the correct advice from LC Engineering on tolerance requirements. I certainly would not re-use one I had taken off.
Thanks for the pricing. Scope, that's some great info. I'm in the Bay Area too. Where did you take yours? And were you happy with the service?
Do the heads always have to be machined? I thought that was only if the shop checks them and finds that it's needed?
Dewrunny, Sounds like a nice setup. I'm thinking about the Doug Thorley headers. I hear they're pretty nice, but like you say, they aren't cheap.
Also, what brand of head gasket did you guys use? I like the idea of going with the toyota made parts, but they're significantly more expensive then others. I hear Rock are good, some people seem to like Fel Pro.
I went with the Toyota, Part Number 04112-65018 which is the "valve-grind kit". It had most of the gaskets you need, the head gaskets are the ones with the slipper-plate head side, the ones that were on there were block side, not sure which is better( See this thread that made me more confused than worth it https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...askets-191393/ ). The gaskets that were not part of it and I bought in addition to that set (could not find a list of what was included so that was a bit frustrating) were the cam seals(90311-42027), so I got those from autohausaz, distributor o-ring (90099-14091), water thermostat o-ring, camshaft plug (11188-65010) and I think thats it.
haha...yeah, I found that thread last week. 15 mins later I wasn't sure what I had just read. Okay, thanks for the info. I feel like the toyota parts are the way to go, but they're just so damn expensive!
Was just looking at the toyota head gaskets, and the gaskets themselves aren't that expensive, around $50 each. Is there any reason not to just buy the toyota head gaskets and then buy the other items that would be included in a gasket set from someone else?
05-22-2017, 07:45 AM
