nethinimleo

nedds some help if anyone can, heres the back drop 93 3vze 4runner, just did head gaskets, plugs, wires, rotor, cap, air filter. No vac leaks engine starts and runs great cold when it warms up it idles 400 or so until stalls, adjusted idle all the way out and it will run but kind of lopes and still idles is way to low. if i unplug the tps it idles great at about 600 no with no apparent problems. I have no engine codes at this point any help would be great!! Oh yeah i did burp the air out of the coolant lines, and check for vac leaks with propane, beside wouldnt a vac leak cause high idles thanks again

Jay351

A leak in my intake caused me to have a very low idle with no power at all (very hard not to stall when starting off in 1st)).

Did you adjust the TPS as per the FSM??

nethinimleo

no i never adjusted the tps, i read the directions, a little intimidateing, how did you find your leak, and where was it, i check with propane and got nothing, do you know of a better way. thanks for the help.

OutlawMike

Well, intimidating or not, I would start with the TPS, then set the idle, then set the timing, reset the idle, reset the timing, and go from there. The FSM covers all of this in detail.

Adjusting the TPS is not that big of a deal. Just takes a multimeter and a feeler gage.

Mike

nethinimleo

I found a site that tells how to adjust the TPS, I am not quite sure what the FSM is, and the Paynes manual says nothing. I'll post a link, thanks again.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#Introduction

Thanks again

TNRabbit

PM sent.

buckz6319

I think I read that you have a 3vze?....if so I have the same engine in my 95 4runner....just to give you some advice on the adjustment of the tps.
I have found it easier for me to remove the throttle body with the tps attached to adjust it because the screws are a PITA to get to on the side of the tps.I also have a tps that the connector is on the back side facing the intake that makes a pain to remove the harness clip. If any one has messed with the throttle stop screw then the adjustment is that much more difficult to do because you have to adjust that correctly first so you can get the correct readings

TNRabbit

Replace those lame philips head screws with allen hexkey screws & it will make your life much easier...

nethinimleo

Took the TB off today and pulled the TPS it, I tested the ohms with meter I did not get what I was suposed to, so I am going to replace, I hope that sovles the problem. Does anyone know is it ok to set the timing with the TPS unpluged as the long as the RPM are set at 800 and what does the jumper wire do when you plug it in to the diag. in TE1 and E1 thanks leo Oh and thanks TNRABBIT for the pm

joehill

yeah I had to remove the throttle body when I replaces my TPS. wasnt that bad. took about 15 minutes.

TNRabbit

You want everything plugged in when you set your timing. TE1 and E1 need to be jumpered to get your timing set right. When you get it to 10 degrees, it should drop to 8 degress when you remove the jumper wire. And you're welcome~

nethinimleo

OK heres where i am i put a Used tps in, reset the timing cleared the codes. took it for a test drive it good power down the first block all was well then the cel came on and the car lost most of its power I pulled the codes and got 41 and 52 i believe these are tps and knock sensor got any ideas anybody thanks leo

TNRabbit

Check your connector to the TPS for bent prongs & make sure you don't have any shorts/breaks in the wiring harness leading back to the ECU.

nethinimleo

Thanks tnrabbit i will be sure to check. I reset the tps useing the easy method yesterday, I knew something wasnt right so i am wondering, in the quick method for adjusting the TPS is your tps plug faceing the passenger side or drivers side? that will affect wether i push it down and then slowley move it up and wait for change or vice versa thanks leo

Jay351

Mine is facing the drivers side.

I used the Factory service manual method of testing/setting my tps.

nethinimleo

Ok thought i would add one last post to wrap it up, so many post seem to have no solution. After careful inspection I found a crack in the air hose that attaches to the TB. the crack was along hose clamp and hard to see at first. Got a new hose at autozone 50 bucks. I readjusted the TPS set the timeing and all has been great since then.

Also those haveing probs with code 52 wich is the Knock sensor. When i put my engine back together I had no idea that the wire was so sensitive and i put the old crapy one back in there. I had done everything to rule out pre ignition, (Retard timing, octane boost, ect...)

so rather than pull my intake and all the stuff that goes with it, I relocated my KS to the engine hanger right below the brake booster. I drilled it out and taped it (12X1.25 Tap) and used the rg-58 coax cable the same length as the pig tale. Hallejuah!! this beast is running smooth no codes, got 400 miles on it so far. thanks for all the help.

abecedarian

someone asked you about the intake and you seemed to have blown it off...
....That would be RG58 or RG58/U coax? The knock sensor cable has 50 ohm impedence? How did you figure that out?

No wonder it runs good with the knock sensor about as far away as it can get from sensing knock. Did you stop to think that a few engineers tested the engine on dynomometers and found that putting the knock sensor where it was was the best place to put it?

If you had heart problems, would you make the doctor put the stethoscope on your left knee just to make the problem go away?

nethinimleo

Thanks for the book knowledge Doc, now lets get practical this mod is not to detect knock, its to get the light off until you feel like geting back under the hood. its like takeing warrafin sodium, plavix, or any other drug that inhibits platelet aggregation so you can avoid a myocardial infarction until you can get a corinary artery bypass graft

If you are a good mechanic you dont need a knock sensor to tell you, you are pre igniteing.
Thanks for the input, and the positive attitude It's great!!!

nethinimleo

Oh yeah i forgot to tell you if you want to check Ohm's use a multimeter. it's real easy, just make sure its set to check ohm's and not voltage. thanks again Hee Haw!!!

NKYJEEPSTER

Helpful still trying to get mine right