3vze... died.
#1
3vze... died.
I know this is my first post (long time lurker) and I realize everyone hates "first post SOS's" but seeing as how I think I just blew the motor I'm willing to accept (even expecting) some criticism on this one.
:h elp::hel p:
Usually I baby this truck just becuase the 3.slow is no drag racer. I short shift like an 80 yr old man. Today, was the one exception and the apocolypse might have happened under my hood.
I pulled out to pass some guy in a van doing 20mph. I ran 2nd up pretty good, shifted to third and thought "damn, this little truck is running much better than usual" So naturally I kept going and right as I went to back out of it and shift into 5th to cruise on home the motor sounds like it hit a limiter and died. Literally, for a split second it felt like a limiter, or a flat spot from over rev and died. Slowly just dropped all power to where it wouldn't move.
I let it sit for a few minutes, fired it up, have to give it some gas just to keep it idleing and definitely sounds like it's down at least a cylinder.
So Guru's... where should I start?
Thanks to all those who reply in advance. May you live long and prosper for it!
:h elp::hel p:
Usually I baby this truck just becuase the 3.slow is no drag racer. I short shift like an 80 yr old man. Today, was the one exception and the apocolypse might have happened under my hood.
I pulled out to pass some guy in a van doing 20mph. I ran 2nd up pretty good, shifted to third and thought "damn, this little truck is running much better than usual" So naturally I kept going and right as I went to back out of it and shift into 5th to cruise on home the motor sounds like it hit a limiter and died. Literally, for a split second it felt like a limiter, or a flat spot from over rev and died. Slowly just dropped all power to where it wouldn't move.
I let it sit for a few minutes, fired it up, have to give it some gas just to keep it idleing and definitely sounds like it's down at least a cylinder.
So Guru's... where should I start?
Thanks to all those who reply in advance. May you live long and prosper for it!
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Burlington, VT
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
do you have headers or the stock manifolds with the cross over pipe? I wouldn't want that getting cherry red. And plugged cat could do it, engines do need to exhaust to function properly. Also, pull your plugs. What color are they? great info here, picked it up from another thread on YT: http://www.theultralightplace.com/sparkplugs.htm
Trending Topics
#9
They are stock. I didn't get to mess with it today, cold and raining but ill see what I can find out tomorrow and update you all. Also ill check the plugs and see what they look like while im at it.
#10
Ok, so the plugs have oil on them. Not sure what that means.
Also, it's not the cat. Cut the pipe in front of it and it's still fubar.
There's no smoke tho which baffles me.
Also, it's not the cat. Cut the pipe in front of it and it's still fubar.
There's no smoke tho which baffles me.
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Take the timing belt cover off and line up the marks, 0 on the crank, and you should have both timing marks at 12 oclock (if they are at 6 rotate again. Weird about the manifolds getting red hot.
#14
Ok, after learning about the "paper clip" method of the CEL codes I got 4-2-5-2.
I'm assuming that is code(s) 42 and 52? Or maybe 4, 2, 5, 2?
I'm still running searches like a mad man but... any experience with this?
I'm assuming that is code(s) 42 and 52? Or maybe 4, 2, 5, 2?
I'm still running searches like a mad man but... any experience with this?
#15
Registered User
42 vehicle speed sensor
52 knock sensor
code 52 is most likely your problem and will have to be dealt with. search knock sensor on yotatech. lots of threads on it
52 knock sensor
code 52 is most likely your problem and will have to be dealt with. search knock sensor on yotatech. lots of threads on it
#16
Contributing Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Posts: 4,787
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
14 Posts
The code 52 will tell the computer 2 retard the ignition to 0. That would cause both your no power and your red hot exhaust manifold. The problem is most likely the pigtail to the knock sensor.... take us about 30 bucks at the dealer, but you have to tear the entire manifold off to get to it.
#17
TNRabbit...
That's what I'm thinking as well. I first read about that after I found out what the codes were. (Thanks Bone Collector!)
We loosened the bolt on the side of the distributer and moved it slightly which allowed it to actually run/move on it's own power. It's still not right obviously but it at least allowed us to move it around the driveway easier.
This pigtail wire, is this something that can be purchased separately from the knock sensor? Or is it a package deal? I called my local autozone for the knock sensor and it's a special order part according to the guy behind the counter. Does that sensor go bad or jsut the wire usually? I'm still sifting through the endless info on the 3vze as to what is "problematic" and what isn't.
Thanks to all who replied btw!
That's what I'm thinking as well. I first read about that after I found out what the codes were. (Thanks Bone Collector!)
We loosened the bolt on the side of the distributer and moved it slightly which allowed it to actually run/move on it's own power. It's still not right obviously but it at least allowed us to move it around the driveway easier.
This pigtail wire, is this something that can be purchased separately from the knock sensor? Or is it a package deal? I called my local autozone for the knock sensor and it's a special order part according to the guy behind the counter. Does that sensor go bad or jsut the wire usually? I'm still sifting through the endless info on the 3vze as to what is "problematic" and what isn't.
Thanks to all who replied btw!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post